Tasted in Beaune with Frédéric Barnier, 28 November, 2023.
Louis Jadot
21 Rue Eugène Spuller
21200 Beaune
Tel: +33 3 80 22 10 57
www.louisjadot.com
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More reports with Maison Louis Jadot
Frédéric on 2023:
“I don’t think it will be as consistent as 2022!”
Frédéric on 2022:
“If we had this volume every year it would be very good – but it’s not the levels of 18 for instance. I think there are two important facets – clearly the rain of June could have saved the vintage because it had been so hot and dry. It makes me ask the question why do we have the wines that we have, the very good wines – we’ve never had another 2003 so why? 20th August the vines were blocked again – 15-20mm – not enough to change the volume but it permitted cooler nights and some dew which slowly – importantly slowly – allowed the maturity to get underway again. There isn’t a lot of acidity but balancing that there’s not a lot of alcohol so it’s not too rich and heavy. You clearly have the impression of balance. The fruit was globally very good and it’s made accessible wines too that have been easy, non-fatiuging to taste. And at the same time quite generous – and this generosity of yield has also balanced what could have been very rich wines. We have been very lucky – I hear some people suggest that the vines are adapting to the climate of today – I think that’s false – we have just been incredibly lucky – it remains complicated for sure. In the end, I love the consistency of 2022 and it’s no surprise because apart from a few small instances the fruit was also nice and consistent…”
Over the last two years there has been much movement towards large format barrels (ie larger than 228-litres) and foudres for elevage…
The wines…
Super wines but also many wines that will need some respectful time in your cellar – a few whites are almost too concentrated!
“There will be a few bottlings, starting in December, and then more in January. But many won’t be done until April – we will try to keep the same length of elevage but these are wines that are still in elevage:”
2022 Prieur-Brunet, Santenay 1er Maladière
6th vintage since Prieur-Brunet purchase, all made in Beaune.
A small roundness of very inviting cushioned red fruit. Mouth-filling with just enough sweetness. Rather silky now. The finish says wait a year (or two) but it will be lovely.
2022 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Clos de la Croix de Pierre
Domaine des Heritiers. Of-course from En Caradeaux
Breadth of and faintly smoky aromatics – a nice nose. More direct intensity but still broad and slightly cushioned – good intensity in this finish but also for keeping a little longer – 2-3 years before drinking – yum!
2022 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Dominode
Domaine Louis Jadot
A good width but this has a more horizontal aromatic – fine cooking herb but tighter at the base. Cool, concentrated but not rich – there’s structure here – this is properly a wine you should be waiting for. But with beautifully chiselled and direct finishing fruit flavour – don’t touch in its first 10 years!
Domaine Gagey
Hmm – that has a beautifully clean and clear call of the red fruit. Mouth-filling, saline – such an impressive wine – a wide wave of wonderfully intense darker red fruit – still holding onto the salinity – that could be a great Beaune!
Domaine des Heritiers.
A slightly softer red berry fruit nose. A little less direct structure but more velour from this tannin. With super, and growing, intensity from the fruit – and really broad finishing – that’s another beauty – brothers these two wines – but very different brothers – great length!
2022 Volnay Clos de la Barre
More airy and precise red fruit aromas. Wide, growing, eventually a mouth-filling richness of flavour with super texture – wide and involving in this finish. I love it but it’s another example where you need a little patience!
2022 Corton Pougets
Domaine des Heritiers.
A more guarded nose – still airy but with less volume – attractive red freshness. Mouth-filling, fluid and beautifully textured. The finish is great! What a wonderfully precise and growing panoply of different flavours – simply excellent wine!
Domaine Gagey.
A warm spice and aromatic sweetness. Nicely direct, fluid and mobile – this is a beauty – great texture, super flavour and a really engaging finish – Bravo Marsannay…
2022 Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Boudots
Domaine Gagey.
A more compressed width of aroma, modestly airy but a little shy. Much bigger in the mouth – structural too – here it’s definitely more Nuits than Vosne but with deliciously finishing, almost juicy flavours – so tasty!
2022 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Baudes
Domaine Gagey.
Also a quieter nose, rounder than the previous, slowly – hurrah – starting to fill the glass with more floral, cliché Chambolle attractiveness. A good mouth-filling volume again but with silkier texture and almost grainless tannin framing the again juicy flavour. There’s still a properly structured wine here that you should be waiting 3-5 years for… Yum!
2022 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.Jacques
Domaine Louis Jadot.
A slightly smaller nose once more but the width of red fruit here is still very good – almost a silky impression to these aromas. Hmm, here is some sophistication – the combination of great scale yet fluidity of flavour supported by the texture of velour – this is very classy wine but I have the impression that I’m tasting it quite early in elevage – the finish, however, is wonderful!
2022 Chapelle-Chambertin
Domaine Louis Jadot. Over 90-year-old vines here.
Here is more breadth and depth of aroma – that’s a super nose. More sucrosity, more volume and impact too, holding a beacon of flavour through the middle flavours and into the finish – that’s really impressive and a clear step up – super wine!
2022 Clos de Vougeot
Domaine Louis Jadot. At the bottom of the Clos here.
Plenty of freshness to these aromas – with a fine clarity to the red fruit that’s showing. Scale – and freshness in the mouth – a proper architecture – as it should be. Complex finishing – keep some years – please – but that’s very high class!
2022 Echézeaux
Domaine Louis Jadot.
A smaller nose again but with impressive depth. So broad in the mouth, the structure is obvious but also not oppressive – it’s in the middle and finish flavours where you really taste the difference between this and the CV – complex, deep – yes, a little spiced – proper, super Echézeaux!
Domaine Louis Jadot
A little of the warm spice noted in another wine – rounder but not larger aromatics. Hmm, but this has its distinct personality – its imprint – from the first impression, texture, shape and flavour. It’s broad and mouth-filling but never overly muscular. Great finishing and I think a great wine too!
Les Whites…
Chablis (All Domaine Louis Jadot): they have been making and doing elevage for their Chablis in Chablis since the 2019 vintage – the bottling is still done here in Beaune for now. Elevage in Stainless steel, large format barrels and foudres.
2022 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Broad, energetic and with plenty of precision, despite some visible creamy oak. Round, supple, clean and juicy – still with the creaminess of the elevage so wait 2+ years before opening. Nicely juicy finishing with a sightly golden style to the citrus fruit.
2022 Chablis 1er Montée de Tonnerre
A more airy breadth of aroma – and no overt creaminess here. Direct, ripe citrus though not too exotic – growing in intensity. The finish is broad and satisfying – that’s already far too drinkable – a lovely wine!
2022 Chablis Blanchot
A crystalline depth of aroma – very attractive. Much broader and mouth-filling. A certain generosity to these flavours but there’s no lack of balance. I’d be tempted to wait 2-3 years for this but we have a lovely wine with proper finishing power – super!
2022 Chablis Les Clos
Yes – not so open top notes but there’s vivid aromatic depth. Mouth-filling – wonderful clarity and just enough generosity to these flavours – very wide and impressively long finishing – this is going to be an excellent Clos!!
2022 Ladoix Clou d’Orge
Domaine Gagey
A very different width of aroma – quite forward with cushioned citrus fruit. Faintly reductive, slightly mineral too – that’s a very delicious wine and stands on its own two feet after the two Chablis GCs – super wine!
2022 Santenay 1er Maladière
Prieure Brunet
Fresher even with some floral accents to the citrus. Broader – more muscular flavours – smaller in the middle and finish but no less delicious – that’s a very attractive wine.
2022 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Clos de la Croix de Pierre
Domaine Louis Jadot.
Like the Santenay a more airy and open nose – attractive. Cool, broad, classy flavour – a little PV reductive style to the flavour but without obvious reduction – though the creamy barrel is much stronger here. Keep three years – largely due to the barrel flavour – assuming all tasting samples are created equal!
2022 Beaune 1er Grèves Clos Blanc
Domaine Gagey.
That’s also quite an airy and open nose but with a more insistent width here, subtly floral too. Full, complex, generous, less obviously flavoured from the barrels – but still. The finish is large and generous. I’d like a bit more ‘zip’ but it’s still a delicious wine.
2022 Meursault 1er Charmes
Domaine Louis Jadot.
A smoky element in the width of this nose – foudre elevage here like the following Perrières. Faint gas today. Then follows a broad, mobile, very attractive mouthful of flavour – faintly with spiced bread and a long finishing intensity of flavour – a beauty – lovely wine!
2022 Meursault 1er Perrières
Here since 2016 chez Domaine Louis Jadot – from the highest parts of the vineyard.
A cleaner, fresher, more direct impression from this aroma. Cool fruit and fluid minerality. Really broad in the finishing flavour – ooh – that’s impressive. I think it another beauty – simply excellent Perrières.
2022 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Morgeot
Domaine Louis Jadot
Deeper, faintly toasty aromatics. The shape and structure are halfway between the previous two – structural, smoky flavour. Generously flavoured and mouth-watering – showing the flavours of the wood elevage today but still ultra-tasty wine – so long…
2022 Puligny-Montrachet 1er les Folatières
Domaine Louis Jadot.
Here is a beautiful aromatic clarity – a great invitation. Volume, complexity, and a little generosity too. Beautifully fading flavour – delicious flavour. Today, just a hint more energy needed for me but so delicious…
2022 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Clos de la Garenne
Domaine Duc de Magenta
Less breadth of aroma but with more focus on some ripe citrus – not a bit exotic – lovely. Hmm – mouth-filling, concentrated wine but with super architecture. It doesn’t lack any energy here and I feel more intensity – I think we definitely tasted these two in the correct order – this is simply excellent though very concentrated!
Domaine Louis Jadot – 3 different origins but all Puligny side
Lightly toasted and really inviting – that’s a beauty! A wine of scale, less overt concentration than the last but better balanced and with more poise. Just a beautiful wine – with long-lasting small ripples of finishing flavour – properly, deservedly, grand cru!
Domaine des Heritiers.
A little troubled as the sample comes from a foudre but this nose is not a bit troubled! Volume and energy – complex fresh citrus too. Really a fine structural wine – clearly more Corton than Batard – with a more juicy delivery of flavour – then there’s the intensity. Just a properly super Charlemagne with a broad and quite intense width of finishing flavour – more intense than the Bâtard but less fluid – you pays your money and you makes your choice!!!