Tasted with Romain Poirrotte in Volnay, 20 November 2023.
Domaine Jean Vaudoisey
6 Rue du Pied de la Vallée
21190 Volnay
Tel: +33 3 80 21 62 59
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Romain on 2022 & 2023:
“2022 brought just a little less than in 2023 but we are still nearly full so we don’t complain! It’s easy to make good wine with good grapes and I like this vintage. We had perfect chardonnay – really – in 2023 but the pinot looked best in 2022. We had to sort a lot more in 23. Each year we sort but without hesitation, quite a lot was thrown away in 23 – there was anyway enough!”
We started our tasting in the domaine’s new cuverie – it was ready just in time for their 2023 harvest!
The wines…
You have to be consistent in Volnay – the average quality is so high. But this domaine is enviably consistent – every year, delicious wines!!!
First the whites:
2022 Bourgogne Chardonnay
Vines in the commune of Volnay – Les Grandes Terres – Declared as Côte d’Or but it’s not on the label – ‘the labels anyway got enough writing on it!’ Probably a December bottling – vines in the commune of Volnay.
Pretty, fresh yellow citrus – very attractive. Wide, slightly saline and full of citrus complexity – the middle flavours are quite a tight ball of fruit. Almost a little finishing aniseed too – that’s lovely!
2022 Monthelie Sous Roche
No Monthelie in 2021 as it was all frosted – but this year!
An extra fineness of width with a faint aroma of spice. More intense, wiry, sinuous – I like the direct, slightly floral, character of this. Fragrant finishing too – delicious.
2022 Meursault
From vines that were replanted after the frost of 2016.
Almost a little smoky minerality on this nose. Melting over the palate – a hint more textural class again – and really lovely finishing complexity – deliciously finishing with some spiced bread.
Les Reds:
2022 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Almost all in the commune of Volnay but there’s a little from Pommard and Meursault too. A little young vines are included, but the average is still over 60 years old
Hmm, thats got a lovely depth of red fruit, slightly cooked. Mouth-filling, mouthwatering, tasty wine.
2021 Volnay
About 10 parcels assembled from all around the village – high and low
Hmm, swirling the glass removes a small reduction leaving behind nicely precise berries. This spreads beautifully over the palate with a tasty middle and finishing growth then a gradual decay of flavour. Yum!
On the limit of the 1er cru part of Grand Champs. Neighbour of Pierrick but his part is 1er cru.
Larger, panoramic width – almost a granular, textural aspect to the nose. Hmm – just a hint more direct and certainly no less concentrated. This has lovely layers of flavour – the differentiator – but a gorgeous finish too – bravo villages
2022 Pommard
Vaumuriens, Chanlins and Riottes.
Plenty of colour for this blend of 3 plots. A small reduction has almost faded – the nose discreet but involving, indeed evolving, with some dark fruit. Some generosity here – large in the middle flavours and shrinking towards the finish but then holding long – not just long – also strong – that’s a great finish!
2022 Volnay 1er Mitans
The vines are sited behind the big red house that’s on your left-hand side before the old Chapelle – direction Meursault. Old vines usually bring 3 barrels
Despite a faint reduction/barrel spice, there’s more width of aroma here. Extra class in the mouth – so mouth-filling but fluid and silky, it moulds to your mouth, it finds every gap to fill – it’s simply beautiful – simply excellent wine too! I’m tempted to say a great Volnay 1er cru – but in Volnay the competition amongst 1ers is very, very strong…
There is one response to “Jean Vaudoisey – 2022”
Hello Bill,
in the description of Jean Vaudoisey’s Volnay Grands Champs you write: “On the limit of the grand cru part of grand champs”. To my knowledge there are no grand cru in Volnay, so what do you Mean?
Best regards Lars Simonsen
Hi Lars – word blindness on my part! That should obviously be ‘premier cru’ not grand cru.
Fixed and thanks for noting!
Bill