Tasted in Beaune with Vincent Avenel and Lucy Auger, 08 December 2023.
Chanson Père et Fils
10 Rue du Collège/r Paul Chanson
21200 Beaune
Tel: +33 3 80 25 97 97
www.vins-chanson.com
Chanson Instagram
More reports with Maison Chanson Père et Fils
News from the domaine this year: In 2023 they acquired new domaine of 50 hectares in the Côte Chalonnaise. Their strategy is that they want to focus as much as possible on their own vines in the future – also from 2024 they will be certified organic in their own vines in the Côte d’Or (more than 40 hectares) and have started the process already in the Chalonnaise.
Vincent & Lucy on 2022:
“The wines aren’t bottled yet – we some serious wines but we are very happy about the quality. Choosing the starting date to pick seemed complicated – we saw lots of our neighbours already harvesting but we didn’t think our grapes were ready yet – so we waited. We were still harvesting before the end of August, finishing 13th September in very nice conditions – just one day with a little rain. It was a year with very fast triage as the grapes were so clean – we destemmed about 50% as in early vintages the stems are not always as ripe as the grapes – 38 hl/ha for reds and 40 for whites – after 2021 we were very happy with that as it was more than double!”
The wines…
That’s the best set of reds I’ve ever tasted here – Bravo – and just look how many great whites they have too !!
All the wines, reds too, in DIAM – 10 and 30 – started in 2010 and for all the whites too. ‘Cork is simply not pragmatic:‘
2022 Santenay 1er Beauregard
Domaine wine – 1.8 ha. The last red to be harvested in 2023. They have now pulled out the vines and will eventually replant with chardonnay – as the domaine is already 2/3rds red. High on the hill with plenty of limestone – ‘so it seems well suited to this change’
Round, sightly cushioned – almost textured nose – it’s very inviting. Hmm – that’s very silky wine – concentrated too. Widening over the palate – that’s simply excellent wine – fading beautifully.
1.08 ha of more than 90 year-old vines
A little more airy character to these aromas – fine, just less forward than the Santenay. More open and structural – quite direct, beautifully precise fruit – a suggestion of austerity but only that – you could probably be drinking this in a couple of years – it’s simply excellent again – potentially a great Savigny.
2022 Domaine Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Les Vergelesses
Darker, more direct, even slightly spiced. Mouth-filling darker fruit – a lightness of touch despite plenty of delicious material here. Broad, finishing – a beauty!
Almost 4 hectares mainly in the flat at the bottom of the hillside.
More airy, fresh and forward with an almost a graphite aromatic complexity. Super cool fruit, quite direct and very fluid – which helps you see the structural tannin nore – but what a juicy and delicious wine. This you should have 2-3 years of patience with but it’s a great Beaune!
2022 Beaune 1er Bressandes
A more shy but here’s a fine width of aroma. Like the Teurons it’s fluid but here with more finesse – the tannin less visible – beautiful flavour – a little less of the effusive juicy finish – but still some. I’d wait just as long for this despite a lower overall barrier to entry from the tannin. A very elegant package – it’s super.
From the highest part of the vineyard, just below Marconnets.
Just a little more forward than the Bressandes – also very elegant and here with some beautiful, extra, floral notes. Wow – gorgeous fluidity mixed with extra silk – what great texture. Flowing, faintly of velour as some tannin starts to show. That’s a complete if slightly linear Beaune – I love it – Bravo!
A different palette of aromas – different flowers but still such an elegant width of aroma. More depth and cushion to these favours – a more overt concentration and this texture starting as velour from the start. Enough fluidity of flavour to make this another wonderful wine. Long-lasting in this finish – simply excellent and also potentially a great wine.
2022 Domaine Beaune 1er Clos des Marconnets
A little over 3 hectares, mid-slope – ‘well exposed – one of the earliest harvested vines in 2022.’
Extra freshness has been injected into this nose – it’s quite floral too. More muscle and more visible but also more controlled structure – a texture of velvet. Impressive wine – and also wine for keeping 3-5 years. Still a super wine…
This nose has freshness with a more direct style. Large scale – what architecture! The finest of tannin frames everything, only faintly drying. Then a mouth-watering wave – waves – of flavour usher you into the finish. Quite the monument to Beaune here – but I would be waiting ten years – you will be able to drink sooner, and with some pleasure, but this is a potentially great wine that will comfortably outlive me!
That’s really wide and with lots of aromatic freshness – at the same time with a zen-like calm. Completely mouth-filling – it’s like you took the Greves and added just a hint more flesh from the fruit to the flavours. Juicy, rather complete wine – with an edge more accessibility to the flavour versus the Greves today. A great Beaune!
Les Whites…
Apart for one, the whites will be bottled from January:
2022 Chassagne-Montrachet
From three different parcels – the only wine tasted today that’s bottled
Good breadth of aroma, here with a nicely incisive citrus too. Here is some depth to the texture. And a melting, generosity of flavour. That’s really very delicious – with just a hint more energy to finish I’d say vin dangereux – but it’s already a super wine.
2022 Domaine Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Hautes Marconnets Blanc
Fine and direct – that’s a beautiful aromatic invitation. Clean, slightly mineral, beautifully textured. The fruit is a different style – the previous fruit with this shape and I’m in heaven – but this remains a beautiful, super-attractive wine.
A couple of hectares here – like the Savigny – but more limestone and steeper in this case.
Hmm – less width but beautifully perfumed with fine florals. Ultra mineral, melting flavour over the palate – that’s 2 great PVs here this year, both colours. The oak needs to fade a little more but in 12 months, when this hits the shelves, that should be the perfect timing for this wine – bravo!
2022 Domaine Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Chenevottes
1.8 ha owned.
A depth of quite fresh yellow citrus and a small impression of citrus-flesh to these aromas too. Larger scale than the PV equally accented by the barrel – but here is extra generosity. It’s a very fine flavour though just a hint less exciting than the PV energy today. Yet with beautiful, panoramic finishing flavour with superb depth. That will be super – wait 2 years!
The main parcel is opposite the Magenta parcel in Clos de Garenne plus a higher part in Peut Bois.
That’s a fine, almost panoramic freshness of aroma – yes! Here is generosity too but wrapping, cushioning, fine structure. Delicate, complex, with waves of finishing flavour – far from the power of the Chenevottes – but here is my choice, Bravo!
2022 Beaune 1er Clos des Mouches Blanc
Different again – super clarity but with more emphasis on the depth of aroma today. Fine scale in the mouth – a power that’s closer to the Chenevottes than the Folatières. Really involving in the finish, some generosity but a generosity that melts over the palate. Simply excellent wine.
0.6 ha above Ladoix – east-facing in the mid-slope.
Even more vertical – that’s got such depth yet forward higher tones of complex, almost grained, citrus. Wow – panoramic in the mouth. Cool, clean, fabulously textured width to this flavour. It’s Charlemagne with less overt architecture and a hint of extra generosity. Potentially a great wine.