Tasted in Pernand with Cleméntine & Christine Gruère-Dubreuil, 26 October 2023.
Domaine Dubreuil-Fontaine Père et Fils
Rue Rameau
21420 Pernand-Vergelesses
Tel: +33 3 80 21 55 43
www.dubreuil-fontaine.com
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Christine on 2023:
“Yes, there was quite a bit of triage needed for the reds, but we were ready for it!”
Christine on 2022:
“Excellent! We needed hardly any sorting and there were good levels of sugar – but not too high – 13-14° for the reds & 12-13.0° for the whites – the acidity was good too. Finally, the quantity was really good and we needed it – up to 45 hl/ha for reds and 50-55 for the whites. In 2023 we had a little more. We have invested in concrete eggs – a 900 and a 1900-litre size. Our harvest started 25 August and went for 9 days, finishing with our Pommard. I would say that 2022 sits between 2021 and 2020…”
The wines…
Both of their Pernand villages wines – red and white – are super. A fine range…
2022 Bourgogne Notre Dame de Bonne Esperance
Three parcels in Savigny, Ladoix and here in Pernand. Bottled in July
A fresh width of clean red berries – slightly dark. Silky, sinuous, almost juicy. That’s a lovely, easy-drinking wine. Clean and pretty.
All the following reds have been racked into stainless steel tanks where they will remain for about another 3 months:
2022 Pernand-Vergelesses
Also from three parcels, Noirets, Boutières and one, Les Fichots is 1er cru
A forward, bright and very inviting nose. More breadth a little more structure – again with a juicy style to the finishing flavours. That’s a lip-smacking, delicious wine – simply excellent villages…
2022 Pernand-Vergelesses Clos Berthet
A less precise but broader aromatic – almost a little cushioned. Also a juicy style – it’s sweet but also with an extra lick of acidity – a little less balanced today but it’s still a delicious finishing flavour.
2022 Aloxe-Corton
More colour. A more direct but silky nose, the fruit having a glossy, more precise style. Really more mouth-filling with super energy. A structured wine but a super wine.
2022 Pommard
Trois Follots and En Beouf
Starting really floral and beautifully perfumed – the next sniff a little tighter. Good shape – the tannin is present but fine – and the fluidity of this wine is such that you might not guess it’s a Pommard but there’s more finishing weight.
2022 Volnay
As always, a high percentage of 1er Cru in this wine.
A narrower, more vertical nose – redder berry fruit. Hmm – really open, redder fruit but perfumed too – open and mouth-watering. I Have a slight preference for the Pommard today but this has a more open and longer finish – the last notes with a hint of drying tannin.
2022 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Vergelesses
Three different parcels.
A little cushion to this pretty red fruit aroma. A more supple width, the tannin more present but very fine grained. A very pretty and precise finishing flavour – the best part today – this is lovely here!
2022 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Ile des Vergelesses
Some of the vines here touch on those from the Savigny Vergelesses.
More plump less precise but still very inviting. Hmm, sinuous but with much more creamy depth of flavour. The structure is visible today but with great flavour.
2022 Beaune 1er Montrevenots
Vines next to Vincent Dancer and just above are the Hospices but here it’s white!
Extra width a with a small creamy accent to floral fruit. Open with a layer of creamy fruit that replicates the aromas. A tight core of finishing flavour.
2022 Aloxe-Corton 1er Vercots
An airy nose with implied weight – growing a fine floral perfume in the glass. Fleshy, more concentration but never rich – a more layered delivery of flavour. The most concentrated – contemplative, even, in the finish – but never heavy. Super wine!
2022 Pommard 1er Les Epenots
Petit plus Grands Epenots
Airy – good but not fully open. The palate is broad and then mouth-filling; supple and broad but today not with the line of flavour that I expect.
2022 Corton Perrieres
Freshness, though a hint diffuse like the Pommard. Silky, sinuous, concentrated – I really like the shape of this in the finish.
A more together width – concentrated but open and giving – that’s very inviting. Supple, silky, cooler and much more stylish today than the Perrières – a fine, fine finishing line of tasty flavour. That’s a really top wine!
2022 Corton Clos du Roi
A little more aromatic volume – less together than the Bressandes but this floral perfume is very attractive. Direct but I much prefer the Bressandes today…
Les Blancs:
All the whites bottled just before the harvest. There’s a test of DIAMs in the Charlemagne but all the rest of the whites are already DIAM.
2022 Bourgogne Les Crenouilles
From the Pommard area – vines across from the Château Pommard
Airy, slightly diffuse. Good shape, slightly mineral, broad and with great finishing energy. Quite tasty.
2022 Pernand-Vergelesses
Also an airy width but more focused with some pretty little complexities. Silky, mobile, still with concentration but mineral and spiced too. There’s some power here. Both the village PVs here are excellent!
2022 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Sous Frétille
A smaller nose but the fresh ripe yellow citrus is more visible than for most. Vibrant and with meltingly cool flavour over the palate – citrus-skin flavours and even some bitters from that, especially in the excellent, slightly saline finish.
2022 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Clos Berthet
Also a smaller nose but sleek and more floral. More CO2 in this – bringing extra energy. Fine and wide, with a juicy, saline, last note. Very good but I’d take the Sous Frétille today.
2022 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Vergelesses Blanc
Planted around 2011…
There is some depth to this aroma but it’s not very wide today – only slowly expanding with some citrus additions. Hmm, that’s rather good – juicy flavour with a width that’s quite silky before a hint of tannic grain frames the last flavours. One of the best of these tasted here – I think it will be excellent.
Pernand side
This has a very pretty core of fine fruit some width too – but with a more saline width. Beautiful on the palate, so seamless and complex – mouth-watering. The middle to finishing flavours are simply beautiful. It could be more demonstrative but it’s still a top Charlemagne.
And for the road:
Darker, complex, vibrant – actually very forward – a subtle oxidation but with a lovely depth and still silky fruit. This is a ripe vintage, perhaps less seamless than the 85 which was my first guess but the extra small grain of tannin made me change to 1979 which turned out to be the case. 1979 Pommard 1er Epenots