Tasted in Volnay with Sarah & Guillaume Glantenay, 26 October 2023.
Domaine Georges Glantenay & Fils
3 Rue de la Barre
21190 Volnay
Tel: +33 3 80 21 61 82
www.domaineglantenay.com
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Sarah & Guillaume on 2023:
We’re very happy and only just finished the last of the decuvages yesterday!
Sarah & Guillaume on 2022:
“The whites and one red are bottled, the rest will be done at the end of January/start Feb. We are very happy with the balance and in both colours – they are tasting very well. The reds have a tendency of freshness – the whites also with a good dynamism. We started 24 August to harvest and we finished also in August – the 31st! The balance really pleases us after the heat of the vintage – even the grapes from our young vines of chardonnay in Monthelie where we worried there might be nothing!”
The wines…
What a success for the team here – so many great wines – bravo!
2022 Bourgogne Pinot Noir Maison Dieu
Destemmed like all at this address. Vines in Pommard and Volnay, the latter dominant – about 70%. Bottle just before the 2023 harvest.
Pretty red berries on the nose. Similar in the mouth with a juicy finishing style. Simply a delicious wine with a little grain of tannin framing the last notes.
2022 Volnay
1.8 hectares worth from 8 different parcels from 5 years-old to 60.
Red fruit again – a second sniff brings the florals – nice! More finely structured than the bourgogne with a hint of perfumed florals in the flavours too. More finishing structure – very tasty wine!
4 parcels with up to 92 year old vines.
This has a beautiful perfume – that’s a great nose. Extra density in the mouth yet with vibrant freshness and energy – intense too – a great villages! I could drink a glass of this today – but it will still be great in 30!
2022 Pommard
Just half a hectare but 4 parcels here too. 20-85 yo vines.
A deeper nose of darker red fruit. Mouth-filling – mouth-watering too – another wine with a juicy, delicious flavour – a different depth and ripeness but oh-so good!
2022 Volnay 1er Roncerets
In the centre of Volnay – not much depth of soil’
Super colour. A beautifully herbed width of aroma here – an absolute beauty! A more structural wine – the tannin a little more chalky but without grain. Panoramic finishing and only very slowly fading. Really super!
2022 Volnay 1er La Robardelle
Always in the family but not in the range as was sold as grapes under a contract – the second vintage for this – ‘we are still discovering it’
A darker nose, more generous – silky red fruits here. More open , melting – super precision – growing in intensity and salinity. Really super again!
2022 Volnay 1er Santenots
0.4 hectares from Dessous
More red, still broad and generous aromas. More supple in shape – but still with that core of juicy fruit. Structural finishing – keep this back in the cellar for 3-5 years. Yum!
2022 Volnay 1er Les Brouillards
Calmer but still inviting nose. Generous agin, full, with a texture of velour from the tiny grain of tannin. As usual for Brouillards a hint more austerity than most of the other crus but I still love it – finishing quite chalky in texture.
First vintage for this was 2015. Deep, almost black soil in places, with plenty of clay.
A lovely floral nose – that’s a great invitation. The flavour intensity is a tour de force here – juicy, absolutely delicious flavour. Chalky texture in the finish again – A great personality here for a great wine – I love!
From the higher part of Rugiens.
Here the nose is more shy – there’s width and complexity – just not the same precision as the others today. Hmm – but here is fun – complexity, intensity, and a spicy character too – juicily melting flavour over the palate. This is potentially a great one too but it’s a little behind the previous today.
First vintage was 2003 but the vines came from grandmother’s side of the family – 3 different parcels. We had more rain here – the vines suffered less than in Volnay
Dark, pure fruit on the nose – fine and precise. Juicy – ooh that’s super – density without weight – wow that’s a great villages wine – finishing modestly chalky and fading very long.
Vinified in a barrel – ‘vinification integrale’
A smaller nose – more delicate and frankly wonderfully absorbing – a great invitation. More saline inflected flavour – broad, mouth-watering – super complex with pretty bitters and faintly creamy at the end. Great!
Les Whites:
2022 Bourgogne Aligoté Vieilles-Vignes
A single parcel on terres-blanches in Volnay. Foudre elevage
Here is a width of aroma with plenty of weight – almost floral and almost reductive at the same time. Saline and alive – this is just so juicy and tasty – and so long too. Simply excellent!
2022 Bourgogne Chardonnay Lameroses
3 parcels – 2 in the bottom of Volnay the other near Meursault
Large-scale for this nose – with an almost peachy freshness. In the mouth too – Broad and absolutely delicious excellent Bourgogne!
2022 Meursault Les Santenots
Villages area here. ‘We changed our elevage a little as we found the wines a little richer than we wanted – mainly by changing the toasting on our barrels.’
A very good width of faintly toasted, also faintly spiced aroma. There’s toast in the flavours too but a super intensity that’s balanced by the concentration here. Almost contemplative finishing – classic spice bread in the finish. Lovely wine.
The last vineyard bought by parents in 2008 – was pinot but it’s high on the hill and stony so decided to replant a part to chardonnay and it was so good (in 2012) they replaced the rest with chardonnay too.
Hmm – a more sleek and focused width of aroma – lovely! More precise and direct – such a fine wine of overt minerality and mouth-watering, almost sizzling, finishing intensity. I love a great white Monthelie and here is one!