Tasted with Guillaume d’Angerville in Volnay, 18 October 2023.
Domaine Marquis d’Angerville
Rue de Mont
21190 Volnay
Tel: +33 3 80 21 61 75
www.domainedangerville.fr
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More reports with Domaine Marquis d’Angerville
My first tasting with Margot who has joined the domaine this year ‘and is in formation.’
Guillaume on 2022:
“For the 2022s, only a couple of wines have been bottled – at this stage the PTG and Aligoté. I’m very happy with the vintage – you could call it an easy vintage – we started very early, starting 23rd August – similar to 2003 and a few days after 2020 which was the 19th. Everything was early and then warm – but different to 2020. The fermentations went without difficulties. It’s a year where you don’t see the heat – so you could say classic.”
The wines…
Lovely ‘entry’ wines but chez d’Angerville in 2022 it is the grander wines which are very grand indeed – they are worth a special search!
2022 Bourgogne Passetoutgrains
This is the only red to have been bottled. ‘These are old domaine vines but my father had put them into a fermage agreement. When the time came, I decided that they should return to the domaine.’
A silky nose, narrow today but with depth – there’s fine clarity to the fruit here. One part pinot and the part coplanted – it’s about 50-50 in the mix though. A slight cushion and good freshness – even a burst of tasty red fruit to finish.
2022 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Extra breadth to these aromas – slightly darker and crunchier fruit. Open, actually quite fluid and fresh – framed with a very fine tannin – yum! That’s super!
2022 Volnay
2 parcels assembled, Pluchots and Grand Champs
Narrower again but with a lovely depth of aroma. Mouth-filling – very open flavours – wide and even a little mineral – then with flashes of energetic fruit – a lovely finish – keep it 2 years before attacking!
2022 Volnay 1er Cru
Has Mitans and Pitures in the blend – completely different terroirs, high and low but a historic cuvée of the domaine.
Clearly more perfumed and aromatic. I love the structure of this – lightly tannic today but a fine architecture to hang the various flavours onto. Juicy red fruit – and not simple fruit to finish. Fluid and delicious – plenty of minerality in this finish too.
2022 Volnay 1er Clos des Angles
More soil here vs Fremiets
A smaller nose but one with a core of red fruit with super clarity. Extra mouth-filling and also a wine of structural architecture – waves of finishing flavour – quite wide – lap over the palate in this finish.
2022 Volnay 1er Fremiets
About 35 year old vines now.
A smaller nose again but open and airy. Here is a hint fat and silk – concentration for sure – yet the energy is present and this remains quite a juicy wine.
A modest volume of aroma but there’s no modesty about the clarity of this perfume! Extra dimensions of flavour and the best fluidity so far – still a hint of tannin (practically grainless) to lose before I’d say silky but it will get there! Give it time – greatness in preparation – and what a panoramic finish! Bravo!
A lot has been replanted.
Airy but with super depth of aroma – red fruit but complex too. As always the more structural and power of these two – framed with a modest volume of tannin – but grainless. Supple and broad in the finish – ooh this is just as good, maybe a notch better than the Caillerets. Bravo!
Was rather reductive this morning – so hard to taste said Guillaume
Narrow and deep – yes a little reductive but not strongly so and not a ‘firework’ reduction. Actually you will hardly note any reduction in the flavours – what I note is the balance of concentration and the depth of texture that’s offset by the impressive fluidity for so concentrated a wine. There’s a first wave in the finish that’s more saline before an intense breadth that harbours a faint tannin. Superb shape – also potentially a great one.
An airy width of aroma – not so forward but with admirable purity. A wine that slides so simply into the mouth but then grows and grows in stature – – almost juicy already in the middle flavours – a wine that’s more seamless – should I say spherical? No, the harmony is better than the others. The finishing texture is simply the best – there is obviously tannin – practically grainless but also practically with drying – just a textural difference – a velour.
Les Blancs:
“We harvested quite early for our whites – possibly we could have gone a couple of days later – but I’m happy with the result.”
2022 Bourgogne Aligoté
Bottled in June
Forward and wide – the slightly metallic minerality – the aromatic rigour, that I associate with much aligoté. In the mouth – no rigour – just salinity and energy – effusive energy – fine complex citrus fruit heralds the finish. Very good!
Similar breadth but here there’s depth of aroma than the aligoté without that wine’s rigour – it’s a super invitation. Mobile, super texture a wine of delicious flavour and energy. Finishing moreishly broad – top!
2022 Meursault 1er Santenots
Complex citrus and faint spice on this fine Meursault nose. Even more in the mouth – there’s enviable width here and a certain extra ease to these flavours versus the Bourgogne – but never too louche. Texturally beautiful. Simply a super Meursault!