Tasted in Meursault with Vincent Boyer, 16 May 2023.
Domaine Boyer-Martenot
17, place de l’Europe
21190 Meursault
Tel: +33 3 80 21 26 25
www.boyer-martenot.com
More reports with Domaine Boyer-Martenot
Vincent on 2022:
“I’m very very happy with 2022 – despite a harvest that started 27th August! We didn’t make the yield everywhere, but nearly – we have volume and quality I think.”
Vincent on 2021:
“I don’t know what we will put in the shops. It’s pretty easy to asses; 90% losses on the higher slopes, 60% in the villages – but the Bourgognes and Aligotes were okay! Let’s say about 80% losses in volume but much worse in terms of value. The bottling will start here in about one month. ”
The wines…
A few white domaines really knocked it out of the park in 2021 – and this is one of them – so many great wines that would be worth a special search – and it won’t be an easy search given the volumes – but at least the volumes of the great Bourgognes were quite good! The reds were very impressive too!
Bottling is all natural cork. Vincent changed suppliers about 2017 after one cuvée suffered about 5% corked bottles – fortunately, it was only one cuvée. He currently has no interest in technical closures; all of today’s corks are individually tested for TCA and are of 25mm width vs the standard 24mm:
From concrete egg but the wine had a year in older oak barrels beforehand. Made like that here since the 2017 vintage. ‘I don’t want to lose all the richness but I want the extra tension.’
Ooh, that’s a lovely nose – broad and fresh – slightly round but still incisive. A small cushion, growing with simply excellent middle density and a great finish for the label – bravo!
2019 is the first vintage with a Côte d’Or label. 4 parcels of vines, one near Puligny plus Coutures, Sous la Velle and Malpoirier
A hint of extra aromatic depth and faintly floral too – more direct, subtly more mineral. Broadening – depth and fine texture – yes! Bravo.
2021 Meursault Cuvée Fernand Boyer
Vines planted by the grandfather, this cuvée usually with 4 lieu dits north to south. This year some Charrons and Chaumes as alone they were not big enough for their tanks. This tasted from foudre.
A rounder, creamy custard accent to this fruit. Broad, with a nice shape and structure. I love this texture and growing intensity – keep this two years before attacking to reduce the effect of the creamy oak but it’s got a beautiful, sinuous shape – and it’s delicious too.
Planted in 24, 1924…
Higher tones, airy, yellow fruit. More incisive. A certain tension here – simply a beauty with just enough generosity to balance the shaoe. Bravo!
More direct and very faintly redictive too – toasty style. In the mouth that’s top – the faint toasty reduction but also a vibrant energy, very fluid in style and the flavour vibrating long into the finish. This is another world vs the Ormeaux but bravo again!
2021 Meursault Narvaux
Extra breadth and a mineral base to this wine. A more up-and-down wine, impressive 8ntensity here. Just a beauty…
Les Reuchaux near Charmes – a single parcel.
A nice breadth of aroma – high tones that are tending to floral. Broad, energetic, juicy wine – a faint rasp of zestiness and slowly fading in broad, quite powerful waves of flavour – nailed this! Simply excellent, practically great villages.
2021 Meursault 1er Les Charmes
Three parcels, one near Genevrières, one in the middle near Puligny and a last next to Limozin
A strong, direct nose, it needs to calm but it’s definitely not short of intensity. The oak flavour is apparent but separate today before coming together in the middle and finishing flavours – here it’s really super. A second barrel is more fluid. This should turn out excellently…
2021 Meursault 1er Genevrières
Air brings this nicely together in the glass. More direct and melting vs the last. Super conc. and broad over the palate – a properly great finish.
Above the quarry towards Puligny – lots of active limestone here. Again from an egg.
A calmer nose but still impressively wide. Classically direct, then wide and mineral. Top…
On the Meursault side of the vineyard, across from the large tree. Vincent’s grandmother bought this in the 1980s, 1987 the first vintage.
Hmm today, this is a more beautiful width of mineral-infused aroma. Supple, an extra dimension of flavour – very silky wone. Theres extra in all dimensions here – simply great.
Les Reds:
Near Sous la Velle, towards Puligny – Old vines with only a 25% yield in 2021…
Ooh, crunchy red fruit – thats just so attractive. Width with a cushioned intensity. Gorgeous finishing flavour too – top Bourgogne.
2021 Auxey-Duresses Au Eccuseaux
Here is both an extra concentration and an extra depth of aroma – still red fruit, though rounder. Rounder in the mouth too – mouth-filling wine with a good cushion – the oak is helping here – but in the best sense – it’s delicious!
2021 Pommard
From En Villages, on the Volnay side, below Rugiens
Higher toned and more direct – almost floral – a fine invitation. Extra incisive, a little structure too but more an architecture – then comes the vibrantly energetic finish – and so delicious too – keep this at least 12 months for the structure to calm – but not this energy, I hope.