Tasted with Fred’s father, André, in Gevery-Chambertin, 25 May 2023.
Domaine Frédéric Esmonin
Les Estournelles
12 Rue du Chêne
21220, Gevrey Chambertin
Tel. +33 9 79 66 20 27
More reports with Domaine Frédéric Esmonin
André & Fred on 2022:
“It’s looking good – less than we hoped – maybe 20-30% depending on the area – the grapes were lovely but were small so didn’t have the juice – but all the malos are done and they are looking good. Of course, when compared to 21 the volume is fine but we were quite a bit under 50% of a normal volume – so all are clearly sold now – or reserved. 2021 needed a little longer elevage but I think we’re back to our normal rhythm with the 22s… Gevrey got 150mm of rain in one day. Fortunately, there was no damage to the cellar but the syndicate of Gevrey were suggesting about 15% losses for 2022 with the small amount of hail that came too.”
The wines
What a sensational set of wines. This domaine produce some of the most attractively drinkable wines in the Côte de Nuits – fairly priced too – not quite ‘great’ but less challengingly, delicious wines that I would be happy to drink any day of the week!
Some of the ‘small appellations’ such as Côte de Nuits villages are already bottled. The rest will be done around November/December:
2022 Nuits St.Georges Haute Pruliers
Half a hectare of vines near the Chateau Gris – on the hill so it needs all the work and harvesting to be done manually.
Forward – a lovely volume of aroma – quite perfumed too. A small spritz but mouth-filling with lovely energy – a faintly chalky finishing tannin. Juicy – very approachable too – delicious wine!
2022 Gevrey-Chambertin
From the Lavaux valley – on the other side of the road.
A little oak spice and faint reduction here. Direct, juicy again, becoming broader – a joyous shape and acid-driven energy – so refreshing – I’d carafe it and drink it today – lovely stuff!
2022 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur
From the ‘Villages’ rated section of the vineyard, rather than the premier cru part. This wine eloquently underlines that villages/1er cru hierarchies are relative in each village, rather than a constant benchmark across villages. This wine easily betters any of the proposed Marsannay 1ers, for instance…
Hmm – a whiff of reduction and then it’s gone – leaving a pure ultra-inviting perfume – direct – that’s great. More structure – architectural – with a little chalky tannin – and a gorgeous finish – this is my new favourite! Simply excellent wine.
2022 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes Les Jousie
From the grapes of 68-year-old vines.
A broader nose, a redder nose which slowly takes on more focus and direction – that’s also a great perfume. Another with a faint spritz today – but redder fruit and even a bit more intensity – almost creamy in the finish – vs the Clos Prieur. I have a faint extra lust for the CP but this is simply excellent wine again and just a hint more generous…
2022 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Les Champonets
Starting with some width and an accent of oak spice – air bringing out more floral perfume to replace the spice. The structure is almost intermediate to the previous two wines but with a little extra intensity to the flavour and associated complexity. Finishing broad and satisfying – and just a suggestion of creaminess again…
2022 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Lavaux St.Jacques
Ooh – this doesn’t need much air to show what it has – broad and pure – a super invitation. More scale and a tannin with no grain – broad, complex and with fine energy to support it – that’s another simply excellent wine.
2022 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Estournelles St.Jacques
A more airy width of perfume – clarity too. More direct, cooler, but so energetic – a hint behind the Lavaux in terms of elevage but another with some architecture – this will be worth waiting for – my new favourite!
2022 Ruchottes-Chambertin
From below the Clos de Ruchottes of Rousseau and near the Mazis of Faiveley.
Wow – this starts fine but then quickly takes on a next level of airy floral perfume. Beautifully shaped, structural but nothing hard – broadening with an energy and complexity – density in the middle and finishing flavours too. Finishing long with a fine and velvet texture. Very lovely and properly GC!