Tasted in Morey St.Denis with Christophe Perrot-Minot, 23 May 2023.
Domaine Perrot-Minot
54, Route des Grands Crus
21220 Morey-Saint-Denis
Tel: +33 3 80 34 32 51
www.perrot-minot.com
More reports with Domaine Perrot-Minot
Christophe on 2021 and a little on 2022:
All the 2021 production is under 15 hl/ha and some was even under 10 – we experienced a lot of frost! All was bottled by the first week of May. As for 2022, it’s a nice vintage – with 22-30 hl/h – still low but I have old vineyards – at least we could still produce more in the Gevrey than in 2021! Back to 2021: We used a little less whole cluster as I wasn’t happy with the stem maturity – none of the wines received more than 20% – and I usually do 50%… We had 12.2 – 12.5° so I used a little sugar – it helped to improve the extraction with the longer fermentation…
The wines…
The vintage effect is seemingly quite low at this domaine – such great wines every year! There was nothing here that I wouldn’t covet for my own cellar.
2021 Morey St.Denis En la Rue de Vergy
From just above the Clos de Tart, with fine, poor soil and lots of rock.
A roundness, a generosity – but also a cushioned clarity of red fruit. Supple, juicy, growing broader over the palate, super-vibrant finishing – that’s a very long finish… A beauty!
2021 Vosne-Romanée Chalandins
A more compact yet airy width of aroma, rather than the depth of the last – becoming more direct – fine purity rather than spice. Sinuous, intense, wrapped in salinity too – I love the energy here…
Hmm – cliché, beautiful floral perfume but mixed with the fruit too. Mouth-filling, ultra-complex – directly a great Chambolle – bravo – then finishing with a broad intensity – holding and holding – eventually a few faint bitters – grand!
More width and muscle in this bass-line of fruit – the top perfume is just as good as the Chambolle. Direct, incisive, real intensity – a wave of broad intensity over the palate. That’s another great villages – no question.
2021 Morey St.Denis 1er La Riotte
That’s a large nose – full of high toned interest – also some faint herby austerity – but always exciting! Mouth-filling with an elegant softness that the nose didn’t suggest – the melting oak is a component here but it’s not disturbing. The finish is a shimmering beauty – and so long. Yes!
With replacements the average age here is 80+ but there are still many of the original vines from 1902 – only 1 barrel in 2021…
Less overt higher tones but a broad and silky base to this nose. Wow texure, lithe, almost chalky but silkier than that – a wine that’s holding many of its cards to its chest today but I’m sure profound!
A little less colour than the previous. Narrower aromas but with higher-toned perfume vs the Nuits. Ultra-transparent – a wonderful clarity – not a wine of power but a great, great wine – finesse is too small a word.
2021 Charmes-Chambertin
‘From right at the top – you won’t find higher and it’s very stony here – directly across the road from one of the parcels of Rousseau’s Chambertin
A rounder nose, some cushion too – very faint oak is apparent but this remains a silky and attractive invitation. In the mouth – that’s beautiful – more of a cushioned core of flavour but juicy cherry stone in this mix. Broad finishing – I like this open and juicy, almost chalky finish
North in Gemeaux – 90-year-old vines mainly delivering millerandes – ‘I always avoid pigeage here as the concentration is so strong. It’s always better to be early rather than late picking here – or rather don’t be late as like Griotte it can compoté and become a little chocolatey’
A deeper nose – powerful and stony – cherry-stones again. Hmm – this is much more open and melting over the palate – juicy and simply gorgeous – I love and prize the extra fluidity vs the Charmes.
2021 Mazoyères-Chambertin
This has a super-open nose – lots of tiny points of complexity. This the more mineral and open of the wines so far – and there’s a fine and intense finish to it too – that’s got a fabulous little strictness in the finishing experience – there’s a structural energy here that I love. A beauty!
‘All these wines have 3 euro corks – in 2022 they were €3.50! Then there’s 200 euros to analyse a blind sample from each bag of corks.’
Hmm – now that’s perfumed – verbena, pivione – not your common or garden violets! Full but transparent – here is volume but hardly any weight – fabulous wine.
From two parcels – higher and lower vines to the left of the famous white house of Damoy.
Seamless width – airy, perfumed and complex. In the mouth a hint more structure and certainly no less volume than the Chambertin – fine, long-finishing waves of flavour – I have a slight personal favour for this extra structure but these two are simply great wines.