Tasted in Morey with Sébastien Odoul, 18 May 2023.
Domaine Odoul Coquard
64 Route des Grands Crus
21220 Morey-St-Denis
Tel: +33 3 80 51 80 62
www.domaineodoulcoquard.com
More reports with Domaine Odoul-Coquard
Sébastien on 2021:
“I’ve 45% less wine in 2021 – that’s nearly 100 barrels fewer and principally in the higher appellations. 30 hl/ha in Bourgogne but the Vosne and Chambolle Fuées were more than 80% down – it depended on the parcel. I had 14 cuvées of less than 3 barrels. It was the climate – but we have lots of issues including the loss of vines to déperisment.
“I’ve changed the style just a little – slightly earlier harvesting to avoid too much over 14° – in 2021 13-13.5°. Now there’s thermoregulation too. I think the results are more elegant but whether it’s the Passetoutgrains or Clos de Vougeot the approach is exactly the same – nature takes its course. I wet the cap but make very little in the way of punching down. 15 months of elevage finishing with the last 2 months in stainless before bottling.”
There are 27 different lieu-dits making up the domaine’s 8 ha here.
The wines…
Fewer cuvées to taste today – reflecting the domaine’s yields in 2021 – but what wines! Clarity and fluidity – a few with extra oak-spice but that also reflects the lower yields. These wines will be equally gorgeous in 20 years – such is their fine balance!
All the wines were bottled in January – ‘They were ready – I normally do February to March bottlings but there was no reason to wait…:’
2021 Bourgogne Côte d’Or
No new oak in this blend of 3 parcels – 1.5 ha of older vines – averaging 60+ including Gevrey Pressoniers which was declassified from villages to Bourgogne.
Not the largest nose but precise and with pure fruit. Supple, spiced – fluid – beautifully textured – wait a little for extra expression. But that’s a very classy Bourgogne – it’s lovely stuff! I like the length too.
2021 Morey St.Denis Les Crais Gillon
Here 0.6 ha. 3.5 barrels vs 11 normally – one of the worst yields – ‘it didn’t help that a large part was very millerandes grapes – great for quality but not for the volume.’ Vines over 60 years old again. 1 new barrel used here.
Extra width, a small spice and a growing floral component. More spice in these flavours but this is a wine with a lovely shape – silky broad, almost fluid – it feels great in the mouth. Classy wine – delicious wine too – I’d wait 2-3 years so that the oak-spice fades a little but it’s better than oaky cream! Lovely wine again with a larger finish too.
2021 Chambolle-Musigny Fremiers
Here just under 1er Beaux Bruns – ‘and not too bad here – more than 60% of the normal harvest.’
Also a fine width of aroma – there’s lots of finesse here – much less of the spice of the previous wines. Super in the mouth – scale, mouth-watering flavour that’s framed with a very fine tannin – fluid and engaging in style once more. The finish a little more generous with a creamy accent. Simply a beautiful villages – wait 2-3 years again…
2021 Vosne-Romanée Vieilles-Vignes
20% of a normal harvest – ‘it was a micro vinification – Chalandins and Champs Perdrix – 8 cases of grapes – but I’m satisfied with the result.’
Hmm – that’s got a lovely floral side – it’s a very engaging and inviting nose. Mouth-filling, fluid in style – slowly growing a little structure – an airy, elegant wine but full of flavour complexity and enjoyment then bursting forward with finishing complexity. Absolutely delicious – a wine of intensity rather than concentration – but the latter is anyway not bad. A beautiful thing.
2021 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Baudes
Normally 3.5 barrels, this year there was one… Like the Vosne this was ‘half’ new oak – i.e. six months in a new barrel and another six in an older one… ‘The vines are almost 60 years old and always with very tiny millerande grapes…’
A more vertical nose – there’s not so much width – but what a perfume – lovely! There’s structure here – the wine’s more architecturally shaped – though never hard. The finish is direct and mouth-watering – lovely perfume in these finishing flavours too – a very different shape – as it should be. Super wine.
2021 Morey Saint Denis 1er Clos Riotte
‘I only lost a third here! I’ve the same soil as the Clos de la Roche – planted in 1985 but it’s still the youngest of my 1ers…’
A more mineral and floral aromatic – not a large nose. Hmm – scale and weight but more mineral and fluid across the palate. A supple wine of concentration, framed with a small grain of tannin – a certain elegance despite its size and a finish that is more floral than fruit. Not all in place today but I think this may be a simply excellent wine – give it time – 5+ years – up to 25 if you wish but it’s going to be excellent.
Another with quite a good harvest – 75% of normal. 3 parcels in this small vineyard, 18-year-old vines next to Clos de la Roche (Lignier), 40 y-o under Monts Luisants and an 80 yo parcel next to the Latricières of Camus.
An airy and quite fine nose – a suggestion of tobacco mixes with floral references. Ultra fine texture – shape and balance – almost a juicy edge to these finishing flavours – flavours that are a little direct and mineral today – so we will need to wait 5-10 years for all the interest to come out – but shape, texture and balance are simply top – potentially a great 1er cru!
2021 Charmes-Chambertin
70-year-old vines like in Combottes. It’s actually 20% Mazoyères. Only a little more than half a harvest.
Not the largest nose but one with a hint of cushion and showing very fine definition to the fruit. Gorgeously textured and mobile over the palate – not a wine of concentration nor impact but one to lose yourself in. Maybe not a great Charmes – let’s see – but certainly a great glass of wine. Just so involving with gorgeous texture. You can already lose yourself in this today – no problem – but with age there will be more greatness!