Marchand-Tawse & Domaine Tawse – 2021

7.9.2023billn

Pascal Marchand 2023 Marchand-TawseTasted with Pascal Marchand in Nuits St.Georges, 19 May 2023.

Marchand-Tawse
9 Rue Julie Godemet
21700 Nuits-Saint-Georges
Tel: +33 3 80 20 37 32
www.marchand-tawse.com
More reports for Maison Marchand-Tawse & Domaine Tawse

Mark on 2021:
We’ve always been well priced but we can only attempt to cover as best we can what the 2021 vintage has done to us – the bottom line is that it has increased our costs a lot. 2016 was, for instance in Vosne, frost-free so for us, 2021 is much worse than 2016 in terms of volumes. In whites we lost on average 80% of the crop – the reds were more 50% losses – there were worse and better places but that’s the average – and we triaged as much as 20% from the fruit that we did collect! But we have the rewards from that – we can certainly see from some of our purchases that they were less attentive to sorting. It was quite a cold growing season by recent standards – so it’s a little older style you could say.

The wines…

Post-bottling and with a much lower volume of production, we tasted fewer wines than usual at this address – but I really enjoyed the quality and the clarity of these wines. As usual, Pascal remains a very safe pair of hand – lovely wines.

2021 Marchand-Tawse, Morgon
Semi carbonic. We have been buying some Beaujolais for a while – not that you ever tasted it – which we added 15% to one of our cheaper Bourgognes. In 2021 we decided to just to make the Morgon on its own.
Pretty floral – nice energy. Mouthfilling – fresh – a wide wave of finishing flavour, slightly creamy in the finish. Very good and nothing of the gentian aromas that can be found in this vintage. Nice wine

2021 Marchand-Tawse, Marsannay
Always from the south of the appellation in Couchey. But this vintage with some Longeroies and some whole cluster ferments too – about one-third.
Deeper, broader aromas – fresh, faintly oaked – that’s very lovely – and quite floral perfumed. Lovely shape, almost incisive but still with some fat – the finish lingering very well – tasty wine with a little structure – wait 2 years – it’s very good…

2021 Marchand-Tawse, Côte de Nuits Villages
Vines in Comblanchien and Corgoloin. Like the last about one-third wc and with a touch – 5% – of new oak.
More direct, also with fine perfume – that’s a great invitation. Another wine with some modest structure – but juicy flavour too – it’s got good balance and is broad finishing.

2021 Marchand-Tawse, Nuits St.Georges
Usually, the fruit is mainly from the Vosne side – but this year it’s 50% from south of Nuits too – all destemmed with a little more new oak.
A more muscular width of darker fruit and slightly spiced too. Fluid, clean, starting direct and then growing wider over the palate – supple – framed with a small grain of tannin. Like the previous wines – already drinking but better to wait a couple of years…

2021 Marchand-Tawse, Gevrey-Chambertin Selection
Because they also have their domaine version they make now cuvee names – the Cuvée Ronde will be the Domaine wine. This a blend of north vines in Brochon, plus Souvrées, Billards, Combes, en Champs and Creux Brouillards – a little wc here too.
More spiced width to this nose. Direct, fluid in style – mouth-watering – not the most powerful but certainly the most approachable so far – finishing with an extra creamy depth. This is excellent…

2021 Marchand-Tawse, Mortey St.Denis En la Rue de Vergy
A long-time favourite of mine from here!
More round aroma of red fruit, a hint of strawberry, almost a little cooked style. In the mouth too – similar red fruit, plenty of tannin but very fine and chalky textured – a slight finishing dryness but in 2-3 years this will be a great villages!

2021 Marchand-Tawse, Nuits St.Georges Les Longecours
The vineyard below Les St.Georges
A very silky width of darker fruit aroma – not large-scale – but there is finesse here. Lithe, direct, growing wider as the flavour melts over the palate. Quite a mineral finish but holding well – proper structure but nothing hard. Simply excellent villages – wait 3-5 years…

2021 Domaine Tawse, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Lavières
A later ripening area.
Slightly more modest colour. More pungent, faintly reductive and with a little of the stems showing too – very complex – but today I’d carafe. Broad, clean, with a faint rasp from the tannin – but very fine-grained. The later flavours mainly showcase some crushed strawberry – very nice and impressively long too. Definitely carafe today…

2021 Domaine Tawse, Beaune 1er Les Teurons
Also a very modest reduction – but a growing floral perfume too. Direct, very mineral – incisive wine – still a wine of delicacy/finesse. Slowly mouth-watering in the finish… Super!

2021 Marchand-Tawse, Nuits St.Georges 1er Corvées Pagets
Plenty of wc – just two barrels and one was new.
Not so wide but there’s plenty of depth and clarity to this nose and it becomes beautifully floral at the end too. Flowing beautifully over the palate – great flavours here – and juicy at the end too – a small peak of finishing flavour before slowly fading. The structure is present but not overbearing. A beauty!

2021 Domaine Tawse, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Champaux
Usually last picked.
This has a larger scale of nose – but still a fine airy nose with flashes of beautiful perfume. In the mouth super scale – a creamy accent to this complex red fruit – the finish with a chalky texture and holding very well with a faint line of fruit… That’s another super wine!

2021 Marchand-Tawse, Clos St.Denis
A tighter nose but still of good width and more than a suggestion of depth – some complex herb notes slowly growing. Sleek, growing broader, very finely divided complexity and tannin – there’s 100% new oak here but you would hardly notice. The structure – a little adhering tannin – remains as long as the flavour. Fine…

2021 Domaine Tawse, Mazis-Chambertin
‘The Petits-Mazis of tiny bunches, 87-year-old vines, it makes no sense to try to destem them. The father of Bertrand made the wines in 1980s-90s, Bertrand started from about 2001 – his wines were great in great years. Their vines are really great – more than one great vigneron of Gevrey will tell you so. If possible would make massale selections from the vines of Maume – the wines of those vines have such magical energy – clones are all the same but these vines have personality.’
Airy, very attractive aromatics – that’s a great invitation – a faint coffee in there too. Supple, velvet texture – layers of flavour, coffee/mocha style from the oak in the flavours too. The finish broader and more impressive. I’d take the CSD for its finesse and this for a more exciting ride…

Les whites:

2021 Bourgogne Aligoté
Vines in the commune of Puligny – the only white that wasn’t frosted here – all organic.
There’s a little reduction here – becoming cleaner and more interesting. Crystalline and mouth-filling – a little extra depth of flavour in the mid-palate – plenty of intensity here – in the finish too. Very good…

2021 Domaine Tawse, Savigny 1er Les Vergelesses
2014 the first vintage
Incisive – bright – lovely yellow citrus. Feels super in the mouth – there’s clarity, energy and a fine fluidity of flavour. Juicy finishing and very nicely textured – that’s a delicious wine – excellent.

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