Tasted with Audrey Braccini, in Fuissé, 28 March 2022.
Domaine Ferret
166 rue Adrien Arcelin
71960 Fuissé
Tel: +33 3 85 35 61 56
www.domaine-ferret.com
More reports with Domaine Ferret
Audrey on 2021:
“The top and bottom of our vineyards were frosted but the middle was lovely though. For a time we had to treat with back-packs as the vineyards were too wet for the tractors – then the treatment got washed away by the next rain – after this happened 3 or 4 times it’s fair to say that we weren’t having fun! But when we saw the quality of the mid-slope grapes we were happy – until the hail of June – 90+% losses! In the end, it was hardly 30% of a normal volume for us. We can still be happy with the quality but…”
Audrey on 2020:
“First wine was bottled in February, the rest are being bottled this week – as you can see all around you! The yields were 45-50 hl/ha largely the result of perfect weather for the flowering – I’d sign-off on that volume now for every year! Normally we have more rain in the area of Vergisson than Fuissé but it was the opposite in 2020. Despite the new 1er crus, the labelling won’t change here – the neck labels with Hors Classé etcetera. Yes, it was still a ripe vintage – generally about 1° lower than in 2019 but still 13-13.5°…”
Of course, this is the first vintage with 1er crus. For the label, herbicides are not allowed in the 1er crus* and the maximum yields came down from 60 to 56 hl/ha. Machines are not outlawed as this would have been an extra layer of administrative complexity and there are always some people who do a better job with machines than others do ‘manually!’
*Something for the INAO to think about in the Burgundian Grand Crus – as a starting point!
The wines…
Such a great pleasure to taste these wines – there are so many great wines to choose from and are worth a special search – and with a great one in the form of the Clos des Pruges to drink while waiting for some of the others – I ordered some – bravo!
All sealed with DIAM since 2012:
2020 Pouilly-Fuissé
From the commune of Fuissé – 32 different parcels many on granitic soils – some with tank elevage, some concrete eggs and also barrels. Bottled in February
A slightly round nose but with clarity and inviting style. Mouth-filling good energy, mobile flavour. Delicious flavour with a modest but lovely mineral energy to the flavour. Slowly fading…
The single vineyard Clos. All barrel – 25% new oak.
More perfumed freshness from this nose. Extra intense and so vibrant, showing a direct style – waves of finishing flavour. Simply excellent – I’d say great already but we are so early in the tasting!
2020 Pouilly-Fuissé Les Perrières 1er CruTête de Cru
Same area as the last, but here Boudot is the proper climat and a 1er cru.
A broad nose, less perfume is showing but it grows – though a little more barrel is also showing. Extra width, mineral – as you would expect from a wine called Perrières – Lovely energy and beautiful over the palate again – super, super wine…
The first vineyard bought in Pouilly by Louis Jadot in 2005. Originally vinified at the Chateau des Jacques. 2 ha. Not yet a 1er cru – it will be reassessed in 15 years – apparently there wasn’t sufficient historical info.
A narrower but deep nose – vertical. Beautiful – here is a wine of beautiful fluidity – super flavour. Broad finishing and Bravo… I’m in love – so take with a pinch of salt that the new 1er cru classification is perfect!
From Vers Pouilly Pouilly – Les Res 1er cru showing on the back label.
There’s a little aromatic oak but what a brilliant spectrum of extra aroma. Here is power but also super texture – a wine that’s melting over the palate, showing chalky minerality. The biggest, most palate-staining finish – bravo – grand vin – but you should undoubtedly drink the previous wine while waiting for this!
A mix of soil types in the vines here – plain east facing 0.8 ha. This was the ultimate wine for Madame Ferret – they could sell the rest of the domaine but not the Ménétrières
A subtle reduction here, complex too. Beautiful, mineral – a fluid panorama of flavour – a subtle rigour to start but melting over the palate. Really vibrant finishing that’s another great, great wine!