Entries from 2021

collet’s cremant…

By billn on March 07, 2021 #degustation

Gilles et Romain Collet CremantEvery year when I taste the Chablis at Domaine Jean Collet, I also buy a little cremant, and usually in magnum. There’s a, non-size-related, advantage to buying in magnum too – at least this year:

Their base wine for the latest available cuvée is from 2018 – all Petit Chablis with 5g dosage, malo done, 1.5 hectares worth, harvested 3 weeks before the Petit Chablis. But if you are buying in magnum, these bottles are still based on the 2015 vintage, and like any NV Champagne, the do get better and better with a little cellar time. That is definitely the case here. This (large) bottle was absolutely delicious – much more-so than the slightly more angular wine (today) from 2018. I recommend it very highly…

This is why I buy a little each year 🙂

opened bottles…

By billn on March 06, 2021 #degustation

JC Boisset Meursault Limozin 2017, Pavillon Volnay Santenots 2009

2017 Jean-Claude Boisset, Meursault Limozin
Almost a textured depth of aroma – certainly cushioned – modestly oaked and of ripe but not exotic fruit. In the mouth, this is nicely fresh starting, even a little mineral. There’s structure but also softness – probably because there’s still some visible oak in the finish. But the finish is wide, interesting and persistent – nicely structural and mineral here. This started a bit anonymously but finished with plenty of character. Give it a couple more years in the cellar if you’re confident with cork, but it’s a very good, almost excellent wine.
Rebuy – Yes

2009 Pavillon, Volnay 1er Santenots
This nose starts deep and fruity – seemingly still with some vanilla too – but very little air is needed and the vanilla is gone – wider, complex, inviting, starting to fill with secondary aromas – tobacco for instance – that’s great! Concentrated wine, with a saline-accented line of flavour, but wide and complex and delicious too. Still quite a baby and also still finishing with some lip-smacking oaky bitters. A tremendous wine though, almost bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

Of-course, due to my laziness, there have been others in the last weeks – just a few words about each as I didn’t record anything:

2018 Dampt Frères, Chablis 1er Montée de Tonnerre
Easy, decently concentrated, very tasty wine – only the merest impression of ‘Chablis’ – but considering the cost of ‘Bourgogne Blanc’ this remains a very worthy option.

2014 des Chézeaux / Berthaut-Gerbet, Gevrey-Chambertin
Amélie Berthaut’s second vintage – already here is both aromatic class and a lovely, balanced, flavour. Young, delicious wine. I’m very happy to have a few more of these – and her 1er cru Gevreys too.

2018 Alain Geoffroy, Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Round, rich, some fat, but decently balanced, very tasty wine. I wouldn’t have guessed Chablis though…

2011 Camille Giroud, Volnay 1er Caillerets
Modestly coloured. The nose while complex, disappoints me – so much vanilla is still visible here. Beautifully balanced, medium-bodied wine of proper Caillerets clarity – yet – the palate still suffused with vanilla notes. I’ve one or two more – given my lack of empathy with vanilla, I’ll be waiting another 5 years, I think…

2016 Jean-Claude & Romain Bessin, Chablis Valmur

By billn on March 04, 2021 #degustation

Jean-Claude & Romain Bessin Chablis Valmur

2016 Jean-Claude & Romain Bessin, Chablis Valmur
I don’t have many more of these, but this is a grand vin and one of my wines of the 2016 vintage. It beautifully blends power and a direct flavour with a suave texture and an undoubted structure – with zero hard edges. There’s a real Chablis feel to the wine despite its obvious concentration and the finish is simply put, special. Proper great Chablis – still a baby – but bravo
Rebuy – Oh Yes

liger-belair’s 2006 echézeaux

By billn on March 01, 2021 #degustation

Comte Liger-Belair 2006 Echezeaux

2006 Comte Liger-Belair, Echézeaux
Louis-Michel’s first vintage. I think that this is probably my last bottle – I hope to be proven wrong one day with a cellar find…
That’s a lovely nose but it starts out rather timid – aerating works some magic with a really inviting floral perfume over a plummy spice. Medium impact but of beautifully silky texture – just a few millimetres of cushioning. The oak that I remember is now gone, largely the tannin too, but not the minerality of the finish. This was always a wine of modest impact but ultra-sophistication and I’d say still lacking any real expressions of maturity – but who cares – gorgeous and bravo!
Rebuy – Yes – at the old price…

the sun has got his hat on – my last week in Beaujolais…

By billn on March 01, 2021 #beaujolais#travels in burgundy 2021

Côte de Brouilly 26 February 2021My Beaujolais visits are in the bag – and today, is my first visit to Beaune since 11 December – report writing and a large tasting. Not to mention airing the apartment and checking that the heat still works and no problems with the pipes!

My three weeks of Beaujolais visits started with snow and minus temperatures – midway through it plumbed the lowest temperature of the winter at home, minus 14°C, it was also as low as minus 9°C in the Beaujolais hills. Jump forward to last week, and the mercury was nudging 20° – like in each of the last 3 years in February – shorts and sunglasses weather for those out pruning. Because of this ‘heat,’ I bought less wine!

??? you ask. Well, I can’t keep it in a hot car all week – some of it had hardly a gram of sulfur…

I should say that I’ve bought quite a lot of 2019 Beaujolais – those cuvées which weren’t already sold out. I’m a very big fan of this vintage – which you will see when my report is published at the end of March…

Now – around here somewhere must also be some anecdotes of wines tasted at home in the last couple of weeks – let me have a look around and come back to you on that…

La Romanée – how about a ’62? – it’s just a question of which century…

By billn on February 25, 2021 #events#the market

la romanee memories
Images from Baghera

Remember this? Well, the catalogue is now available – you can bid online, or just electronically thumb the pdf…

baghera-la-romanee-1862We can quibble about pricing – and who’s to say the catalogue doesn’t underestimate the hammer prices? Particularly when you consider a sought after vintage of the wine from today’s maker – Louis-Michel Liger-Belair will easily approach US$10,000 for a single bottle. With that in mind the prices, considering both age and provenance, are damn-near respectable.

I considered maybe a birth-year wine? but I forgot that Bouchard didn’t have the contract in the 1960s – I’ve seen 1962 La Romanée from Camille Giroud though! So what about adding a century? Okay I know what hair I have is greying, but it’s not that grey!

this week’s snaps…

By billn on February 24, 2021 #travels in burgundy 2021

Let the sun shine…

Today was just over 20°C, but because of an almost constant wind – it felt chilly after my lunchtime run – still, never forget, it’s February, despite what my (jogging!) shorts and t-shirt might suggest!

It’s the final phase of my 3 weeks in Beaujolais – it looks like almost 70 domaines will be in the bag at report-time – all hopefully published before the end of March. The most comprehensive Chablis and Beaujolais reports there are – so people tell me – the Côte d’Or selection is not bad either 😉 That will be over 280 domaine’s wines profiled for the 2019 reports – so far…

Anyway, some of this week’s snaps:

Beaujolais, so far this week…

By billn on February 17, 2021 #travels in burgundy 2021

Spring has sprung!

At home in Switzerland, after a week of snow and minus temperatures, we hit this winter’s peak frost early on Sunday morning – minus 13°C. Directly when arriving in Beaujolais mid-morning on Monday, the temperature was 7°C. Whilst they also had a little snow and minus temperatures last week, this afternoon it was almost 15°C with a beautiful blue sky and fine views of Mont Blanc – the wild bees were flying too.

Speaking of flying things, I found some people working in the vines in Chiroubles this afternoon – and they were clearly lost – as both have domaines in the Côte de Beaune to look after. Benoit Moreau and Eric Germain are sharing 2 hectares here and right from the start they are managing their plot with biodynamics – I’m already looking forward to their 2021s 🙂

The weekend is forecast to hit 20°C in Beaujolais. Whilst it’s too early to read anything into it, one vigneron told me today that the vines are behind 2019 and 2020 at this early stage. But life is awakening – and things can quickly change.

Anyway, just to show that I’m still alive, here are a few images from this week, so far…

2019 White Burgundy – part 3 – Chablis

By billn on February 15, 2021 #reports

2019 White Burgundy - part 3 - Chablis

The fifth in my series of 2019 Burgundy Reports is now online. To recap:
1. The whites part 1 – Mâconnais, followed by
2. The whites part 2 – Côte de Beaune
3. The reds part 1 – Côte de Beaune
4. The reds part 2 – Côte de Nuits

Now my latest report, covering the whites of 2019 Chablis is now online – here. This is Part 3 of my three 2019 White Burgundy Reports.

This report covers the visits to taste 2019s at domaines #151 – #216 in my campaign of 2019 visits. It, naturally, includes both what I like and who I like, and rather than ‘just’ scores, I actually recommends which wines to buy!

I hope that you enjoy this in-depth look. I’m now underway in Beaujolais, also tasting 2019s to start my Red Burgundy Report – Part 3! – 55 producers to visit – so that will then be 270 domains visited to taste their 2019s – of course with more to come before the new wave of 2020s starts in around July or August!

Burgundy Report

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