Entries from 2006

the game part 2 of 5

By billn on December 10, 2006 #degustation

fourrier griotteFor those who missed it, here’s part 1. I’ll avoid commenting too much on other people’s guesses – simply because it’s unlikely I can do so without giving clues. Anyway, here are the next three contenders:

Wine 4
Medium-plus ruby-red colour, still with hints of cherry. Shiny red fruit on the nose with a black undertow and a little earth, eventually a little orange too. Sweet and concentrated with real mid-palate intensity. Soft entry, well covered tannin with a slowly fading good length that maybe even has a hint of licorice. Rather like wine #3 this displays apparently less ripe tannin when compared to others in its flight.
My mark: 17.0/20, group average 17.7/20

Wine 5
Medium, medium-plus ruby-red. Quite an intense minerally nose that becomes higher toned and I thought just a little lactic but this a short phase before a nice creamier presentation. On the palate there’s a dark aspect to the fruit, good acidity and a nicely expanding and intense presentation in the mid-palate. This is very long with a good creamy fruit flavour. Very nice and accomplished wine – second-best so-far.
My mark: 18.0/20, group average 17.9/20

Wine 6
Medium-plus ruby colour. A very high-toned and forward nose that slowly goes deeper and spicier. Fresh presentation, very nice texture, very good acidity and darker oak-driven notes. The oak is also on the finish, but darkly spicy rather than bitter. The tannins are quite well textured, just a little grain but they are very ripe.
My mark: 18.0/20, group average 17.5/20

the game part 1

By billn on December 09, 2006 #degustation

game part 1
Just to jog your memory, the following wines make up our tasting you only have to guess which ones!

  1. 2004 Denis Bachelet, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Les Corbeaux
  2. 2004 Ponsot, Chapelle-Chambertin
  3. 2004 Haegelen-Jayer, Clos de Vougeot
  4. 2004 Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.Jacques
  5. 2004 Fourrier, Griottes-Chambertin
  6. 2004 Geantet-Pansiot, Charmes-Chambertin
  7. 2003 Cornu, Corton
  8. 2003 Guyon, Echézeax
  9. 2002 Tollot-Beaut, Corton Bressandes
  10. 2002 Guyon, Vosne-Romanée Les Charmes de Mazières
  11. 2002 Hudelot-Noellat, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Suchots
  12. 2001 Armand Rousseau, Chambertin
  13. 2001 de Vogüé, Musigny Vieilles Vignes
  14. 1999 Gros Frère & Soeur, Richebourg
  15. 1999 Hudelot-Noellat, Romanée Saint-Vivant

Arranged in blind flights of three. A leisurely 20 minutes or-so was given to each flight. I went from wine to wine to contrast the aromatics before tasting – given that the first was obviously a 2003 I initially chose to taste it last given the expected extra ripeness. Then went backwards and forwards between the wines. We were requested to mark the wines out of 20, quarter-points allowed.
PS There’s no clue intended from the picture above

Wine 1
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. A soft and dusty fruit nose, red fruit, some cream and relatively modest toasty/spicy oak – eventually coffee/mocha overtones. On the palate the ripe fruit is a little oak-marked, and that oak is slightly bitter and for a while dominates the quite long finish. Slowly some creamy fruit comes through, eventually aeration provides a nice balance.
My mark: 17.5/20, group average 17.5/20

Wine 2
Medium, medium-plus cherry red colour. Initially the nose is very tight with faint estery notes, slowly going deeper and a little spicy – eventually this becomes plusher, more red and with quite creamy sweet oak. The fruit is quite high-toned in the mouth, with well-covered tannin. There’s a fantastic length on display – even longer than wine #3 – there’s also quite a lot of oak on display but it’s not in the slightest ‘untasty’ and quite creamy. I came straight in with a 19/20 for this but given a close grouping of high scores later on I edged this up a quarter!
My mark: 19.25/20, group average 18.0/20

Wine 3
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour but just starting to transition to ruby. Initially it’s a narrow and high-toned nose that hints at a red fruit depth, eventually some pretty red fruit comes through. Good concentration, the tannin seems to have some grain at the first encounter but they seem to smooth out with the very good acidity. This wine is long, very long. I had a reasonably good score coming through – perhaps 18+ – but if you taste this after wine #1 it seems quite unripe and the tannin becomes very astringent. Eventually I marked it below wine 1…
My mark: 16.0/20, group average 16.6/20

a game for the next few days

By billn on December 08, 2006 #degustation

I had a very ‘illuminating’ experience yesterday; 15 wines, many were grand crus and served in flights of three – but served blind – their identities were only revealed at the end, though we had the list upfront.

  • 2004 Denis Bachelet, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Les Corbeaux
  • 2004 Ponsot, Chapelle-Chambertin
  • 2004 Haegelen-Jayer, Clos de Vougeot
  • 2004 Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.Jacques
  • 2004 Fourrier, Griottes-Chambertin
  • 2004 Geantet-Pansiot, Charmes-Chambertin
  • 2003 Cornu, Corton
  • 2003 Guyon, Echézeax
  • 2002 Tollot-Beaut, Corton Bressandes
  • 2002 Guyon, Vosne-Romanée Les Charmes de Mazières
  • 2002 Hudelot-Noellat, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Suchots
  • 2001 Armand Rousseau, Chambertin
  • 2001 de Vogüé, Musigny Vieilles Vignes
  • 1999 Gros Frère & Soeur, Richebourg
  • 1999 Hudelot-Noellat, Romanée Saint-Vivant

I also made a guess as to the identity of the wines and ended up with 5 from 15, but had 0 from the first 8! It wasn’t an improvement by process of elimination either as no identity was revealed until the end. So over the next 5 days I will give you 3 wines per day, and you can guess from my note and score what it might be – then the shocks will be revealed!

d’angerville 1er taillepieds 2002

By billn on December 08, 2006 #asides

angerville taillepieds2002 Marquis d’Angerville, Volnay 1er Taillepiedstry to find this wine...
(From magnum) Medium, medium-plus cherry red. The nose starts in a very mineral way with hints of cedar eventually giving way to red berries and a slow build-up of coffee. The concentrated palate bursts with explosive red fruits and plenty of grainy tannin – but there’s no hint of astringency – the acidity pulling you into a long finish that has a rather darker fruit complexion. Very accomplished and very tasty.
Rebuy – yes

de vogüé 97 chambolle 1er

By billn on December 06, 2006 #asides

de vogue chambolle 1er
I shouldn’t really be drinking this wine.

Although it’s produced from young vines (less than 25 years-old), those vines are located in Musigny, so 9 years is far to little time to allow for optimum development. I’ve previously drunk this wine 3 times; first time not so great, second time a super and fresh bottle (direct from the domaine) and then another disappointing bottle a little after. Both ‘not very impressive’ bottles came from the same merchant – as did this third bottle. Another note I saw this week was also negative – so I decided to pop the cork – it will either be a disappointment (as weight of evidence suggests) or a pleasant surprise. It turned out to be somewhere in between…
1997 Comte Georges de Vogüé, Chambolle-Musigny 1ertry to find this wine...
Medium-plus ruby-red colour – right to the rim. The nose starts dense, very tight and quite deep. Time reduces the depth and gives this a wider and redder complexion, though more patience – about 2 hours from opening – and it’s has a coffee aspect coming through and certainly a finer aspect. The palate is also rather dense, quite fat and very well textured, it’s also very, very long, but that length is heavily oak-driven, slightly bitter and not so nice. Two hours in the glass does nothing to improve the finish, nor impart some complexity. My summary (so far) is drunk too young and currently showing too much oak on the finish. I will leave the other half of the bottle for tomorrow to see if it’s nicer then.

So far, much more like my previous (merchant purchased) bottles that the domaine-direct version.

Day 2 and thankfully the bitterness of the finish is almost a memory. The wine has held together very well – still very dense and primary – the only negative with the wait is a bit of a beefy, herbal whiff, though the last drops smell terrific. So, definitely too young and a long, long way from drinking. From a stylistic perspective I still don’t think I would rebuy…
Rebuy – No

The discussion of this wine that precipitated the opening of this bottle can be found here.

sylvie esmonin, gevrey and clos st.jacques 04

By billn on December 05, 2006 #degustation

esmonin sylvie
Two excellent 2004’s…
2004 Sylvie Esmonin, Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignestry to find this wine...
Deep cherry-red colour. Slight reduction can’t hide earthy, creamy blackberry and blackcurrant aspects on the nose. The palate is ripe and again very black-fruity – brambly – and with helpful acidity moves seamlessly through slightly grainy tannin to a black finish edged with cream – maybe a hint of coconut too.
Rebuy – Yes
2004 Sylvie Esmonin, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.Jacquestry to find this wine...
Deeper colour than the villages – edged with purple. The nose is much tighter and less giving, but earthier. The palate is denser and smoother – executive beefcake here. Perfect acidity and a very impressive length. Just like the villages, this wine is mainly about a black fruit profile with fine dry tannin that is completely covered by the soft fruit. I was very happy until I returned to the last half glass that had overnighted in the fridge – the earth has turned to cedar on the nose, less plush in the palate and the tannins stuck out. Day 1 fantastic, day 2 not! Many wines made in a reductive style won’t survive overnight in the fridge – Fourrier is a good example – based on this I’ll give it the benefit of the doubt because it was super on day 1.
Rebuy – Yes

niellon 2004 chassagne maltroie

By billn on December 04, 2006 #degustation

2004 Michel Niellon, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos de la Maltroietry to find this wine...
niellon chassagne
Medium-pale yellow. The nose starts deep with plenty of fresh bread and sweet pear, slowly tightens and becomes higher toned. The palate is fat and full – almost grand cru ‘oily’ – with super acidity, and penetrating intensity that bursts with lime/citrus fruit. Considerable yet understated length that shows just a hint of cream. In one word; excellent.
Rebuy – Yes

2003 liger-belair, vosne-romanée

By billn on December 03, 2006 #degustation

liger owcI’ve wanted to open this mixed case for a while…
2003 Liger-Belair, Vosne-Romanée La Colombièretry to find this wine...
Medium-plus cherry-red colour. Deep red, sweet cherry mixed with sweet vanilla oak – the fruit is nicely delineated – provided you keep the temperature below 20°C. Full flavour, perfectly presented with a strong vanilla infused finish – very high quality villages but very, very 2003.
Rebuy – Yes

french children ‘need wine class’

By billn on December 01, 2006 #other sites

Apparently it’s true

Given the glass of Dubeouf 2006 Beaujolais Nouveau I just had, perhaps they should speed up the process!

Burgundy Report

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