Two excellent 2004’s…
2004 Sylvie Esmonin, Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
Deep cherry-red colour. Slight reduction can’t hide earthy, creamy blackberry and blackcurrant aspects on the nose. The palate is ripe and again very black-fruity – brambly – and with helpful acidity moves seamlessly through slightly grainy tannin to a black finish edged with cream – maybe a hint of coconut too.
Rebuy – Yes
2004 Sylvie Esmonin, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.Jacques
Deeper colour than the villages – edged with purple. The nose is much tighter and less giving, but earthier. The palate is denser and smoother – executive beefcake here. Perfect acidity and a very impressive length. Just like the villages, this wine is mainly about a black fruit profile with fine dry tannin that is completely covered by the soft fruit. I was very happy until I returned to the last half glass that had overnighted in the fridge – the earth has turned to cedar on the nose, less plush in the palate and the tannins stuck out. Day 1 fantastic, day 2 not! Many wines made in a reductive style won’t survive overnight in the fridge – Fourrier is a good example – based on this I’ll give it the benefit of the doubt because it was super on day 1.
Rebuy – Yes