The young vines of the domaine’s grand cru Ruchottes-Chambertin have (for the recent vintages) been set-aside to produce this declassified ‘village’ wine. I thought the 2002 to be the the standard of a good premier cru but the 2003, whilst good, to be less successful. Here’s my first look at the 2004:

Domaine Georges Mugneret, Gevrey-Chambertin
This wine is lighter in colour than the domaine’s 2004 Vosne (that preceded it) – medium, medium-plus cherry-red. The nose is a little more reticent, slowly building a musky density with a mineral/cedar background, eventually some very smooth red fruit. The palate is also very smooth – you slip in almost un-noticed – the acidity is just about perfect, only slowly making your mouth water for more. Work the wine around on the palate and you notice the cedar/mineral element again and also there’s a little-tannin ‘grab’, otherwise they remain very well hidden. There’s a nice expansion in the mid-palate and a very understated but perceptible length. Today there is little about this wine that says it’s better than the slightly cheaper Vosne, and certainly it doesn’t show the same potential the 2002 did at this stage. Well made, and though that cedar thing is going on, it’s maybe a rebuy, but for (at least) the next two years or-so, I would reach for the better and cheaper Vosne in preference.
Rebuy – Maybe

For now, I’ll retain an open mind as to whether this is better than the 2003, but the 2002 is still much the better wine.

2004 Mugneret-Gibourg, Vosne-Romanée
Quite a deep cherry-red colour. Right from opening this has a deep, forward nose that begs further sniffing; concentrated red and black cherry with just a powdery edge and an undercurrent of spice in a cinnamon/clove type of way. The palate is well-textured, concentrated and (for a village) very concentrated. The acidity is fresh but not racy and there are fine, well-covered tannins. Understated length finishes a complete village wine. Not even a hint of green – Excellent.
Even on day two this has held together perfectly. A great way to start the year.
Rebuy – Yes

As soon as I finish this bottle (tomorrow) I will have to open up the ‘village’ Gevrey for comparison…

Christmas lunch was a long, leisurely affair. First we took the 2002 Fevre Chablis Bougros as an aperitif, then with food took two Piesporter Goldtropfchens – a 2004 and a 2003 from St.Urbans-Hof – then a couple of new reds:
2002 William Fevre, Chablis Bougros
Pale golden. The nose is a pungent mix of faint shoreline notes and heavy, lime-inflected fruit. Super minerality and intensity coupled to really good length. This seems much tighter than the last bottles – must be time to think about laying down for the future. An impressive bottle still.
Rebuy – Yes
2004 Mugneret-Gibourg, Echezeaux
Medium-plus cherry red colour. The nose shouts red berries, starting in a very soft, powdery red fruit way. Time adds faint cedar and a kind of wet-metal note. Very understated entry, instantly giving the impression of a nice ride along the acidity before moving into a very, very long finish – that was impressive! The mid-palate has a small burst of interest, but this wine remains very understated – not aloof – just very understated and very well made.
Rebuy – Yes
2004 JF Mugnier, Musigny
The colour is medium-plus red, but halfway between ruby and cherry – already starting to lose some that youthfull robe. The nose starts deep and complex with a strong cedar note at the top, and all-spice below. It takes quite some time to open out into a more fruit dimension – mainly a redcurrant note that develops a baked tart effect. The palate has perfect texture – ultra-smooth – and excellent acidity. Really exceptional length, though currently edged with some faintly bitter oak tannin. Interestingly the cedar of the nose is mirrored on the palate. Just a little more intense than the Echezeaux, but I find that cedar note intrusive. Lots of positive aspects, but a wine that is less ‘together’ than the Mugneret-Gibourg today. Take an overnight rest in the refridgerator and the last glass has a more floral nose and the palate is more ‘together’ – still a little cedar though. 5 more lay in the cellar for the long-term.
Rebuy – Maybe

There are a number of La Romanées, and all have a good reputation. This one hides it’s light under a bushel as it’s a monopole of a relatively little-known producer – but take it from me, the quality is right up there with that of many better-known producers. The vineyard itself is at the ‘end’ of the same hillside that starts with the Clos St.Jacques if you walk with your back to the village of Gevrey. The last thing after La Romanée and Les Veroilles (which La Romanée sits above, and is also a monopole of the same producer) is a small strip of ‘village’ vines called La Bossière, then it’s only trees!
2003 Domaine des Varoilles, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er La Romanée
At first glance and sniff, this looks and smells like a 2003 – blind tasting to that level of accuracy need hold no fears! Medium-plus cherry-red with not a hint of lightening or ruby colour. The nose starts very ripe with plenty of powdery red fruit, but time opens quite a distinct coffee note and eventually a very well defined and intense red cherry/cranberry impression. In the mouth this is concentrated, soft, intense with a good burst of fruit on the mid-palate – it’s a very ‘worthy’ 1er Cru – the finish is quite long and the only part that hints of some oak. The tannins are very well covered. This is a great success for the vintage, and even if you are just a little agnostic about the character of 2003, I think you will find plenty of fun here – and that’s not to say there is no longer-term serious side to this well-priced wine.
Rebuy – Yes