A négoce wine. The last time I had this there was a strong vintage character and here it is today too – a little stronger than the Perrot-Minot, let’s say at a 7/10 intensity. In the mouth there seems to be both a good balance and good freshness, in particular there seems to be a very engaging mid-palate energy and a creamy extra dimension to the fruit. That part is very impressive, but it’s vintage character shows all the way to the finish…
2004
2004 Mugnier J-F Nuits St.Georges Clos de la Maréchale
2004 Ardhuy Beaune Petite Clos du Teurons Blanc
2004 Chandon de Briailles Corton Blanc
2004 Tollot-Beaut Savigny-lès-Beaune Champs Chevrey
Medium colour. A clear, if not stomach churning, vintage character, below is a deep, dark and slightly sweet fruit base. The combination of acidity and faintly astringent tannin have a not too mouth-puckering affect, and the texture is quite interesting. The fruit has just enough sweetness to deliver a level of balance.
2004 Lambrays Morey St.Denis Les Loups
Medium colour. The nose is heavy with the volatile 2004 taint, below is an interesting coffee edge though I can’t quite get to the fruit. In the mouth this has sweet fruit, nicely soft texture, depth and a subtle extra dimension in the mid-palate that lingers through the finish. As usual when I experience the 04 character the acidity seems a little elevated. If you’re not sensitive, then this would be a very tasty wine just now.
2004 Guyon Antonin Meursault Charmes Dessus
Already a medium golden colour – but that seems to come from the oak. Plenty of sweet toast on opening, slowly becomes more brioche, width and depth aplenty – very accomplished indeed. Tongue-coating, smooth, concentrated and perfectly balanced (invisible) acidity. No real fireworks, but new flavours seep out from your teeth and cheeks; creamy accents and excellent length. This was a relatively expensive bottle, but it is a classic, high-class Meursault in that comfortable, plush, unhurried style that only this village truly delivers. My indecision on whether to make this purchase was clearly unnecessary…
2004 Jadot Louis Volnay Clos des Chênes
Medium, medium-pale colour. The nose was largely absent for the first few minutes, only a slightly dense impression. Slowly it opens, eventually delivering wide, high-toned perfume that is clearly edged with the 2004 character – but here it’s character, rather than the oppression it delivers in many other wines. In the mouth this is very Jadot in its fine but narrow impression, born on super acidity – like so many ‘neither young nor mature’ wines from this producer. Fine, without power or intensity, yet there is subtlety and lovely delivery. For my own taste, this wine is as close as I can get to recommending, despite its obvious vintage character.
2004 Mischief and Mayhem Gevrey-Chambertin Crazy Love
Medium colour. The nose starts very tight, just a little warmth, slowly it develops a heavy floral scent – in-part it’s derived from a little of the vintage character, but on a low and ‘nice’ level. There is some fat, silky texture, high-toned fruit, balance and a very impressive length that shows some licorice. Initially I noticed the ‘character’ more in the flavours than the aromas, but the flavours seemed to clear completely. A lovely wine, and indeed a very serious wine…