2004

2004 Guyon Antonin Meursault Charmes Dessus

By on November 30, 2009 #asides

Already a medium golden colour – but that seems to come from the oak. Plenty of sweet toast on opening, slowly becomes more brioche, width and depth aplenty – very accomplished indeed. Tongue-coating, smooth, concentrated and perfectly balanced (invisible) acidity. No real fireworks, but new flavours seep out from your teeth and cheeks; creamy accents and excellent length. This was a relatively expensive bottle, but it is a classic, high-class Meursault in that comfortable, plush, unhurried style that only this village truly delivers. My indecision on whether to make this purchase was clearly unnecessary…

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2004 Jadot Louis Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.Jacques

By on June 30, 2009 #asides

Medium colour. High-toned red fruits, no 2004-specific aromas. Mouth-filling and shows a little tannin – it’s very impressive – complex in the mid-palate. This is very nice indeed – I could love this one.

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2004 Chézeaux Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.Jacques

By on June 30, 2009 #asides

Medium-pale colour. After the first whiff I chose to double decant – it may have helped a little, but there was still plenty of vintage ‘character’. Behind the mineral, cedary, slightly minty curtain is a pretty red fruit note that becomes ever brighter as the glass drains. In the mouth the ‘character’ is enough that it also intrudes on the flavour – on the other hand it’s sweet, nicely textured and would seem nicely transparent, even a little chocolaty. Drinkable, but hard for me to love this one.

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2004 Lignier-Michelot Chambolle-Musigny Les Gammaires

By on April 30, 2009 #asides

Medium-plus colour. The nose starts with a fine depth and only the faintest of the vintage taint – slowly that a builds to an almost unpleasant level – after 2 hours it fades a little, giving a faint spearmint edge and some nice red berry notes. In the mouth there’s reasonable density and slightly forward acidity. The texture is okay, as is the slightly savoury length – maybe even a first hint of mushroom is there. If a little overwhelming on the nose the ‘04 character’ remains only a faintly interesting note on the palate.

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2004 Mortet Denis Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.Jacques

By on April 30, 2009 #asides

(Magnum) Medium-plus colour and actually a faint shade darker than the 2005 if not quite the same level of purple reflections. The nose starts with mild 2004-specific aromas, but they build, eventually masking what is only a suggestion of concentrated fruit. This starts with enought dissolved gas to make it hard to judge – swirling reduces the problem, leaving you with a similar licorice/olive impression in the mid-palate and into the finish. There is also the 2004 flavour to martch the aromas. Impossible for me to love this.

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2004 l'Arlot Nuits St.Georges Les Petits Plets

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

A 2004 nose, but not in excess and drowning out the other aromas. Nice flavours of ripe fruit and good acidity. A bit of 2004 flavour on the finish too.

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2004 Chauvenet Jean Bourgogne

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Quite deeply coloured. A nose of 2004 plus mushrooms. Mouth-filling with some tannin – this is a big bourgogne – and slightly tart acidity. Not much fun here.

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2004 Chauvenet Jean Nuits St.Georges Les Argillières

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Medium-plus colour. A characteristic 2004 nose. Riper fruit than the bourgogne, good tannin and acidity balance – it tastes much better than it smells.

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2004 Liger-Belair Thibault Nuits St.Georges Les Porrets

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Medium colour. High toned, slightly estery aromas, whilst not obviously a 2004 to start with, there is a little some element slowly showing itself. Nice mouth-feel and some high-toned fruit. Overall this has a very good balance and is actually quite nice.

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