2004

2004 Chézeaux Griotte-Chambertin

By on July 31, 2007 #asides

The nose starts high-toned with a backdrop of vintage 2004 cedar. Slowly the cedar recedes giving space for a much more mineral aspect than is usual for this vineyard and certainly less alluring. The palate is silky with fresh acidity and super intensity, but unusually the length is again very mineral. It’s actually quite super, but I’d never pick it as Griotte. Day 2 the nose is transformed to the classic soft, but deep red cherry, perhaps including also a shade of raspberry and importantly the cedar is totally vanished – that’s very promising. The palate gains a little more depth and the finish remains unchanged – mineral but very long. This could become a super wine – but wait for 2015 as a minimum – I think it will need it as it was even slightly better on day 3!

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2004 Potel Nicolas Clos de la Roche

By on July 31, 2007 #asides

Medium-plus cherry-red colour. The instant aromatic impact comes from red fruit notes before a stronger, mineral/cedar element takes over. The less wine you have in your glass, the more wonderful it smells, lovely red fruits. The palate is very well filled with concentrated fruit and quite some intensity in the mid-palate. The tannin is not badly textured though there’s a short-lived trace of bitterness – but it comes at the same time as the earthy, dark oak appears on the finish so that bitterness seems to be more wood-based. That length is certainly grand cru without being too showy, though there’s a subtle creamy undertow there somewhere. Overall it shows good ripeness, and nice balance – if the cedar element becomes more subtle this will be lovely, but right now it remains – for me – a questionmark.

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2004 Drouhin Joseph Puligny-Montrachet

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

The nose is both wide and deep; neither fat nor high-toned it delivers subtle blossom and cream. Very well textured in the mouth, giving the impression that real muscle could be under the jacket, but the jacket stayed on in our short time together. There is good minerality and super acidity that pushes long into the good finish. Perhaps it’s just a little tight as there was little I could put my finger on – I summarised by writing ‘very efficient and understated Puilgny’.

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2004 Chartron Jean Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Pucelle

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Medium lemon-yellow. The wide, high-toned nose shows a little citrus interest and some faint oak artifacts – it’s quite interesting, but could do with a little more density. The palate is delicate rather than dense – I feel there is something missing – perhaps the yields were a little high(?) The good acidity brings you quickly into the mid-palate, and initially a rather coarse showing due to the oak treatment. An hour from opening and the wine is much more comfortable in it’s own skin and quite Puligny; clean but missing 1er cru intensity. Good but not great.

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2004 Vougeraie Vougeot Clos de la Prieuré Blanc

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

It’s a fresher and for my taste much more interesting nose. Nicely textured and again quite plump, though just a little sleeker than the 2005. There’s a nice burst of concentration on the mid-palate and a good finish. I’d still like a twist more of acidity, but this is anyway very nice.

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2004 Clair Francoise et Denis St.Aubin Murgers des Dents de Chien

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Medium yellow. The nose fresh, just a little savoury and spicy against that citrussy 2004 feel. Medium-intensity with very good acidity and a nice flow into the good finish. Again there’s a slightly savoury element to the palate too. Plenty of flesh here, rather than the taught, haughty aspect of many in 2004. Easy and tasty drinking – very good value at it’s pre-arrival price.

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2004 Bachelet Denis Gevrey-Chambertin Les Corbeaux

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. An understated and tight nose slowly becomes creamy with glossy fruit. The cream of the nose is paralleled on the palate with impressive density to the precise creamy fruit that has a licorice edge. Mouth-watering acidity and understated smooth tannins that just cling a little to your gums. There is just a faint edge of bitterness in the finish which I can’t quite decide whether it comes from the grape or oak tannin, but it’s a good length. Very young – certainly a 2004 – but a very nice package.

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2004 Gambal Alex St.Aubin Murgers des Dents de Chien

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Pale lemon-yellow. A smooth nose of brioche and mineral notes and some quite bready depth – very appealing. This really stands apart on the palate, very good acidity coupled to nice minerality, yet there is good mid-palate impact. The finish is just a little oak driven at the moment, but this wine has drive and personality. Everyone enjoyed this very much.

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2004 Bouchard Père et Fils Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. From cellar temp (15°C) the nose shows several layers; high-toned jellied black fruit at the top, earthier, leathery notes in the middle and lower-down. Leave the glass for a while and it fills with cream and a faint smoke edge – mmm. The palate is quite a departure from the norm in 2004 – lots of faintly grained tannin – but there’s quite enough intensity of black-shaded fruit to match. The acidity takes a little-bit of backseat to the fruit and tannin, just slowly making your mouth water. I might wish for a little more expansion in the mid-palate, but the finish is long with hints of mocha and a bitter young-oak edge. Not the easiest of wines to drink, but no green notes here. This very young wine needs at least three 3 years before revisiting – but it will be worth it – it has the potential to be excellent.

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