Medium, medium-plus cherry-red. The nose has a pure and bright red-fruit core but has a rather green-pea malolactic style edge – though of quite some depth. The palate has medium depth, good tart acidity and a creamy, deep oaky, though with a rather dry tannic depth – but seems to need an extra dose of ripeness…
2004
2004 Romanée-Conti Echézeaux
Yield 26.5 hl/ha – or 1,267 cases. Medium cherry-red colour. Soft aromas of vanilla support high-toned young but quite elegant notes and subtle stems – slowly it is cherry fruit that starts to underpin everything. The palate mirrors the elegant profile of the nose – there are no fireworks, just a sneaky, undemonstrative length. Elegant, subtle, long reflective wine.
2004 Vougeraie Côte de Beaune Pierre Blanche
2004 Rion Michele & Patrice Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red. The nose is quintessential Chambolle – or at least many peoples’ expectation – soft, sweet red fruit with the faintest savoury edge; it’s very pretty. Versus the domaine’s 04 Argillières there is more depth, intensity and extra ripeness. The tannins are fully covered. The acidity still has a little tartness, but this also helps hold the fresh flavours of the mouth-watering finish. The oak has much better integration here – lovely wine.
2004 Romanée-Conti Grands-Echézeaux
Yield 25.5 hl/ha – or 882 cases. Medium colour. The nose has a little more wood and stem ‘smoke’, faint vanilla at the base and just a little more width than the Echézeaux. Eventually the nose shows truffly notes and asian spice – more cohesion but I miss a fruit dimension, plus a little cedar is now appearing – 25 minutes finally gives us a little cherry! The nose seems much more primary than from barrel. The palate shows the elegance that I remember though the acidity seems just a little brighter with a trace of cedar on the mid-palate. Like the Echézeaux, there are no fireworks, rather understated length. This was my ‘amour’ from barrel – from bottle it seems merely ‘pretty’ rather than beguiling.
2004 Vougeraie Gevrey-Chambertin La Justice
2004 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Varoilles
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red. The nose hovers close to fantastic – beautiful red berry fruit edged with cream – but from time to time there’s a rather powder and indistinct edge, the wine could never quite make up its mind. The palate is nicely textured with good intensity and acidity. The tannins are well covered with sweet fruit and a lovely creamy edge to the finish too. There was no sign of green in this wine, but one-third of the bottle lay in the fridge overnight; the nose is now earthy with a strong cedar streak – no red fruit and ‘no love’!
2004 Romanée-Conti Romanée Saint-Vivant
Yield 28.3 hl/ha – or 1,229 cases. Medium colour. The nose starts more generous and savoury that the last wines but then closes up. Some notes of cedar and berries are slowly released as the nose widens again, becoming smoky and filling the glass again with creamy, spicy and more fruit driven notes. The palate is more masculine and tannic but shows sweet fruit and a more concentrated length. It’s less elegant for sure but has more power and will surely gain balance with time. This is a much bigger step up from the Grands-Echézeaux than at the barrel tasting.