Medium, medium-plus colour still with some cherry-red colour. Deep aromatics, with dense darker cherry fruit thats not perfectly fine but has a lovely faint mocha halo. Mouth-filling, well balanced acidity and tannin that comes through on the mid-palate but has already faded before the finish. Actually the finish is rather good with small after-shocks of creamy flavour. Today the mid-palate flavours have a bitter edge that contasts well with the sweet fruit but was just on a little too high level to start – after an hour and with food I’d rather say bitter chocolate – nothing left for tomorrow, very nice.
2004
2004 Parent Pommard Epenots
2004 Bachelet Denis Côte de Nuits Villages
Medium-plus colour. The nose is pungent with cedary green odours, a significant swirl is required to release a faint sweet red note. Overnighting makes little difference to the aroma profile. The palate is supple, well textured and has a ripe complexion, but the cedar is very forward here too. Excellent for CdNV length, slightly creamy – but too green, even on day two
2004 Barthod Ghislaine Chambolle-Musigny
Medium colour. The nose is dominated by that cedar-green note, it does slowly recede over 2 hours, revealing more of the ripe red strawberry fruit below. In the mouth it’s ripe and sweet, full of red fruits, a nice texture and a good burst of concentration on the mid-palate – but it’s also here that you can taste the green element. It’s soft, sweet and nicely concentrated, but with this level of green I can’t recommend it…
2004 Chavy Philippe Puligny-Montrachet Rue Rousseau
Medium-plus yellow. High-toned green and yellow fruit and, for the first 15 minutes some oak. High-toned ripe fruit on the palate, slightly estery. Very bright in the mid-palate and quite wide too before fading into the finish. This has a rather full and round fruit profile, which is not my favourite style – just seems to lack for elegance. Good wine if you like the style, but doesn’t say ‘Puligny’ to me though
2004 Mugneret Dr Georges Gevrey-Chambertin
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose starts with a waft of dark oak that is slowly replaced by cedar. It’s a short peak of green that slowly, but never completely subsides, filling out with soft, ripe and creamy fruits with fainter brûlée. The palate is well-textured, ripe and sweet. Initially the acidity is a little prickly – carbon dioxide probably as it fades and smooths. The finish is a very good one, again edged with cream. The green element has faded to the extent that it is no longer part of the flavour profile. I’m more confident now for the future – perhaps the next in 3 or 4 years…
2004 Carillon Louis St.Aubin Les Pitangerets
Medium ruby red, already a little development at the rim. The nose starts a little like roast red tarts with an overlay of herbal, slightly cedarish notes. In the mouth there’s nice enough texture but the tannins coupled with the acidity will certainly make your mouth pucker – it’s an interesting contrast to the ripe fruit. A nice middle-weight wine with food, but more challenging without. I’m not unhappy to have drunk my first Pitangerets, though I’m not straining at the leash for the next, at least not from 2004…
2004 Truchot Jacky Chambolle-Musigny Les Sentiers
Medium colour. Lots of dirty, toasty oak and burnt match to start with – and he hardly uses any new oak! – eventually a little raspberry peeks through. Lots of ripe and sweet fruit on the palate, and just a little tannin. The acidity starts a little prickly (carbon dioxide?) but softens in the finish. I quite liked this in the end, but the initial aromatics were hardly attractive.
2004 Chevillon-Chezeaux Nuits St.Georges Les Bousselots (Blanc)
Medium yellow. The nose starts with a forward brioche note before fading into a good if simple ripe fruit effect. There is some fat, but this wine is defined by a lovely spine of acidity – it starts just a little prickly but quickly smooths. Unlike many heavy and ponderous whites from the Côte de Nuits, I find this fresh and engaging.