offer of the day – drouhin-laroze 2018

By billn on November 27, 2019 #the market

DOMAINE DROUHIN-LAROZE 2018 – En Primeur
Prices of the 2017s and 2016s, from the same offers in previous years, from the same merchant.

Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs 2018 75cl 55.00* (49.50, 49.50) Swiss Francs
Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaut-St-Jacques 1er Cru 2018 75cl 69.50 (69.00, 65.00)

GRAND CRUS
Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru 2018 75 cl 135.00 (125.00, 119.00)
Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2018 75cl 139.00 (129.00, 125.00)
Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2018 75cl 168.00 (149.00, 145.00)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2018 75cl 188.00 (165.00, 158.00)

*There is 8% Tax to add in Switzerland, but then these are delivered prices

It seems quite rare for the 2018s to come down in price – eh?

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a couple of weekend wines, week 47 2019

By billn on November 26, 2019 #degustation

Hmm – week 47 – there’s not many weeks left this year!

Two similarly priced wines – similarly good too:

2016 Jean-Marc Pillot, Montagny 1er Les Gouresses
Such a vibrant and perfumed nose of sweet citrus and faint minerality. A punch of freshness, complexity and energy. Yes!
Rebuy – Yes

2016 Bourgogne-Devaux, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune La Dalignère
Plenty of red colour here. Plenty of red fruit aroma too. Silky wine, but one with plenty of volume. There’s some minerality in this deeply fruited wine, but it’s balanced excellent wine.
Rebuy – Yes

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nouveau – non

By billn on November 22, 2019 #degustation

It’s a truism in Burgundy that there are great wines, but often you can’t buy them. I seem to have found that also with Beaujolais Nouveau this year. This bottle was the only option in my (Swiss) supermarket this year – for a princely 5.95 Swiss francs. To be honest, most of the wines I tasted here were superior to this particular bottle – but, again, this was my only choice.

It’s unclear who actually made it – the back label is generic and notes only that the wine was imported from Beaujolais by my supermarket. I disliked it not because it was thin and weedy – rather for completely opposite reasons – it was fat, well-textured, obviously concentrated, but it was also cloyingly sweet – no gamay freshness – so no second glass. The rest should be okay for boeuf bourguignone. We drank some 2016 Jean-Marc Pillot 1er Montagny for our second (and) third glasses – that restored us!

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offer of the day – faiveley 2018…

By billn on November 21, 2019 #the market

I missed the 2014s, but here you can see the ‘progression’ of the prices (in Switzerland) for the 12s, 13s, 15s, 16s, 17s and now the 2018s from the same Swiss merchant. The format here for the prices is simple: 2018 (2017, 2016, 2015, 2013, 2012) and — if not previously offered…

DOMAINE FAIVELEY 2018 – En Primeur

PREMIERS CRUS
Pommard Rugiens 2018 75cl 82.00 (75.00, 86.00, —)
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 2018 75cl 85.00 (79.00, 84.00, 78.00, 72.50, 69.80) Swiss Francs*
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 2018 150cl 175.00 (163.00, 173.00, 161.00, —, —)
Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges 2018 75cl 105.00 (99.00, 115.00, 98.00, 98.00, 98.00)
Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges 2018 150cl 215.00 (—, 235.00, —)
Chambolle-Musigny Les Fuées 2018 75cl 139.00 (125.00, 135.00, 128.00, 119.00, 119.00)
Chambolle-Musigny la Combe d’Orveau 2018 75cl 135.00 (119.00, 132.00, 124.00, 119.00, 119.00)

GRAND CRUS
Corton Clos des Cortons 2018 75cl 169.00 (149.00, 169.00, 149.00, 139.00, 139)
Corton Clos des Cortons 2018 150cl 343.00 (303.00, 343.00, 303.00, 283.00, 283)
Corton Clos des Cortons 2018 300cl 736.00 (656.00, 736.00, 656.00, —, —)
Echezeaux 2018 75cl 169.00 (—, 165.00, 149.00, —, —)
Mazis-Chambertin 2018 75cl 198.00 (178.00, 198.00, 179.00, 167.00, 169)
Mazis-Chambertin 2018 150cl 401.00 (361.00, 401.00, 363.00, —, —)
Mazis-Chambertin 2018 300cl 852.00 (776.00, 852.00, 776.00, —, —)
Grands Echezeaux 2018 75cl 198.00 (188.00, 208.00, 198.00, 198.00, —)
Latricières-Chambertin 2018 75cl 189.00 (165.00, 189.00, —)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze 2018 75cl 285.00 (249.00, 299.00, 278.00, 249.00, 235)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze 2018 150cl 575.00 (503.00, 603.00, 561.00, 503.00, 475)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze 2018 300cl 1,200.00 (1,056.00, 1,256.00, 1,172.00, —, —)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Les Ouvrées Rodin 2018 75cl 875.00 (698.00, 745.00, 659.00, 598.00, 598)

Corton Charlemagne 2018 75cl 189.00 (189.00, 189.00, 169.00, 169.00, 159)

*There is 8% Tax to add in Switzerland, but then these are delivered prices
After the decreases (red) in 2017, we are once-more on the way up – but Côte de Nuits pricing is generally equal or still lower than in 2016.

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and the winners are…

By billn on November 21, 2019 #annual laurels#degustation

I previously mentioned the first-round tasting for Burgundy’s young winemaking talents 2019, well for the weekend of the Vend du Vin, the final blind taste-off was done and the winners chosen.

And the results?

On Friday 15 November evening, at the Palais des Congrès in Beaune, the GJPV organization awarded their seven regional trophies to the following young winemakers:

  • Damien MARTIN – Domaine de LA DENANTE – Mâconnais
  • Arnaud et Xavier DESFONTAINE – Château de CHAMILLY – Côte Chalonnaise
  • Laurent GAY – Domaine Michel GAY & Fils – Côte de Beaune
  • Prune AMIOT – Domaine AMIOT-SERVELLE – Côte de Nuits
  • Charly NICOLLE – Domaine CHARLY NICOLLE – Chablis
  • Bastien MATHIAS – Domaine Alain MATHIAS – Grand Auxerrois
  • Cyril CHIROUZE – Château des JACQUES – Beaujolais
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week number 47 already!

By billn on November 20, 2019 #reports

Just the first two days in Beaune this week – so only 10 visits, but I’ll be back next week. I needed to be home to catch up on my growing mountain of typing! The 2018 reds remain highly variable – stylistically – whilst far from homogenous, the whites are significantly easier to appraise and position this year.

Onwards…

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the tastevinage majors of 2019…

By billn on November 19, 2019 #annual laurels#degustation

For the second vintage, the tasting panels of the Tastevinage have chosen their ‘majors’ for the year – their best wines tasted. This year they have reduced their list from the 20 that were chosen last year, to just 12 for this. There are some unexpected names in the list too!

For this ‘award,’ the twelve were chosen from the 1,215 wines that were submitted to blind taste in 2019:

2019 Tastevinage Majors

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records are made to be broken!

By billn on November 17, 2019 #events#the market

It was roughly 19h45 when I quit the salesroom of the 159th Hospices de Beaune wine auction – the sale didn’t actually finish until about 21h15 as there remained the small matter of almost 100 more lots to get through, but the writing was on the wall – records are made to be broken.

As a starting point, there was less wine for sale in 2019 versus 2018 – this was simply a question of the lower 2019 yields – 589 barrels of 2019 going under the hammer, down from 828 in 2018, including 118 barrels of white wine and 471 of red. A lower volume, but the early word on the quality of the 2019 vintage was positive, however, tasting was complicated. Those who tasted earlier in the week loved the wines, but those who tasted from Thursday onwards, when the weather turned much colder, were met with tight, often dissociated wines – would that change the minds of potential purchasers?

It seemed not.

The dynamics of the sale are interesting to watch – the major buyers often starting the bidding, but with much discipline, rarely offering even €100 more for a barrel when outbid. Except for poor old Frederic Drouhin, where discipline goes out of the window for certain lots; Drouhin traditionally buy all of the Beaune 1er Cuvée Maurice Drouhin – though plenty in the room still bid against him – so his barrel prices slowly crept up to over €11,000 for a barrel – probably it’s a game!

And the barrel prices? The first wine in the sale is traditionally the Beaune 1er Dames Hospitalières and it really strated the ball rolling in strong fashion – €13,000 a barrel. Outside of ‘show lots’ – such as the President’s Barrel of Corton for €260,000! – the prices were still often double the 2019 bulk prices. Despite the low volumes, reds were selling for nearly 8 percent more than in 2018 and the whites going for a ripping 18 percent more (with 100 lots still to go). So with the volume down by nearly 30%, I didn’t really expect the total from last year to be challenged – but it was looking closer than I expected. Prices have, on the whole, risen every year since 2016, though many 2019 prices still lag behind the exuberance of 2015.

I asked one of the most important purchasers (volume-wise) of the sale, Alberic Bichot, if he was happy with the prices tonight, to which he answered, “I’m very happy for the hospital!”

And the weekend itself? The usual fare, an untold number of defenceless garlics were killed, merely to sit on plates with snails…

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2018 and the curse of ‘phenolic ripeness’ – well, that was week 46…

By billn on November 16, 2019 #reports

week 46 visits

Weather for ducks in Burgundy this week – literally. Or perhaps penguins – some cars even sported a little snow on their roofs on Thursday morning – specially imported from the Hautes Côtes.

Good visits this week – even if not always good wines – the difference between the ‘fresh’ and the black, partly volatile ripeness (“we were looking for phenolic ripeness”) is stark but hyper-interesting. 2018 reds are really a remarkable vintage, also remarkably diverse. Some have absolutely nailed it, but others – even great names – sadly, have not……

Next up, I suppose there may be a wine auction this weekend!

Clos des Ducs
left La Grand Rue, right La Tâche
The ‘gross’ lees…
Over Vougeot
Some ‘Gevrey
‘Weather for ducks’
VdF
Stroke me….
Now that’s a tasting…
And to finish…
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