Here’s a Bourgogne that always takes time to shed a certain austerity – it’s simply perfect right now. The second wine also has a touch of structure to subsume…

2002 Ghislaine Barthod, Bourgogne
The cork is obviously going to a problem! As the waiter’s friend exerts its pressure to lift the cork, it’s clear that the middle of the cork is soft and the worm will just pull out leaving a messy hole in the middle and the rest of the cork in place. Pff! The Ah-So is clearly the better tool here. This cork, however, still wants to extract its pound of flesh so anyway breaks and crumbles – the last 20% staying lodged in the neck but most of that was extracted by the worm of the waiter’s friend. It’s often the case that the end result of such a trial, to add insult to injury, delivers a tainted wine too – fortunately, that wasn’t the case with this bottle – my last of a half-case.
A modest, medium colour. The nose has a little smoke and soil but clarity and appealing cleanliness too – it’s very inviting – almost a grainy impression to these aromas. Pure, with beautiful acidity. This is such a mouth-watering, almost juicy-flavoured, medium-bodied wine. Red-fruited, not a bit ‘old’ just drinking beautifully. A bottle that empties much faster than most – and that’s the highest recommendation. I think I will wait a little longer for my 2005s!
Rebuy – Yes

2014 Joseph Drouhin, Côte de Beaune
Here’s a fine-looking and easy cork to extract – a little darker – perhaps ‘hardly’ treated. Starting a modest wine but as one of Drouhin’s flag-waving cuvées – hence, the similarity of the label to their Clos des Mouches. not least because the young vine fruit of that vineyard also ends up in these bottles – this is a wine that keeps getting better.
Of-course a younger colour than Ghislaine’s wine – but not deeper-coloured. The nose has a young and fresh perfume, though this nose also hints at a little structure. Despite the ‘village’ AOC the flavours are a little less weighty than the Bourgogne and, yes, there is just a little structural hardness here – but easy flavours are mainly the order of the day. This is a good wine but at this age, it offers no real competition for the excellence of the Bourgogne. I’d say that, structurally, I’d be waiting at least another 2-3 years for this wine – hopefully, this pause brings more interest – many 2014s are delicious right now, this is ‘easy’ but much less ‘giving’ – or at least that was the case with my home-made Shepherd’s Pie! On day two with cep risotto, this wine is transformed – more aromatic depth with blood and tobacco in the mix – also an easier-going palate of good depth of flavour. This transformation bodes well for the future I think!
Rebuy – Maybe on day one Rebuy – Yes on day 2!