the wines of burgundy – just a small update…

By billn on September 04, 2020 #books, maps, magazines, films even podcasts!

The wines of Burgundy Pitiot and Gotti

Only 20 years separate these editions; the current number 14 in English versus the 10th edition from 1999. There are 16 editions in French…

This remains the pre-eminent small-form guide to Burgundy – and also the only one which (sensibly!) today includes Beaujolais – though sadly without any maps for Beaujolais. In 20 years we have an additional 100 pages too – now 390 of them. I have only one nit to pick; Roger Jones translated the text for the 10th edition into English – it’s faultless. This can’t be said for the new one as there are many spelling mistakes and even more approximations of English – which a shame – though in the end, these bring more of a smile than a distraction.

Still the most successful small guide to the technicalities of the region and highly recommended.

the saint-vincent 2021

By billn on September 03, 2020 #diary dates

2021 Saint-Vincent

The 77th edition of the Saint-Vincent Tournante will be hosted by Corpeau, Puligny-Montrachet & Blagny, January 30th and 31st, 2021. I’d love to go, but it’s always complicated by January being my 3-week-long project of Chablis tastings. Oh, and let’s not forget the concerns about viruses! Still, I hope to make it!

Their website is now open: www.saint-vincent-tournante-2021.com/

corton & charlemagne – the map!

By billn on September 02, 2020 #books, maps, magazines, films even podcasts!

I’ll be the first to admit that I get far too easily excited by maps, but here’s a new one in the series by Laurent Gotti – perhaps with help from his new partner Sylvain Pitiot? – Laurent is now joined with Sylvain, replacing the name Poupon, on what was once the indispensable book of vineyard maps by Pitiot & Poupon – it still is indispensable if you have small pockets. For those of you with more space, this would be my first choice 🙂

From Beaune’s Athenaeum – here. Shining light onto, perhaps, the most complicated (ownership and wine-colour wise) of all Burgundy’s grand crus. I suppose I will be buying a copy this week!


Image from Athenaeum.

oh well…

By billn on September 01, 2020 #degustation#seals (not the furry kind)

Ah – the anticipation. The ritual of opening so carefully. Not to mention finding the right filter for the photos!

Previous bottles of this from Bertagna were fabulous, but: Ah – the cloudy wine. The smell of mushrooms, of beef, of cork – lots and lots of cork! The sound of wine pouring down the sink because we don’t have the chance to make beef bourguignon in the next week or so…

so you want to work in burgundy?

By billn on September 01, 2020 #the market

Vita Bourgogne

A project that has been over three years in gestation. And the seed for this new approach all began with the ‘tractor-driver war!

No, not really a war! But a few years back, due to a lack of communication/transparency, tractor-drivers (in particular it seemed) had the ability to get a job at a good domaine, work there for several months then move to another domaine for a higher salary offer – then move again and again every six months. It was not so much the escalation of salaries that stung people into action, as much as the clear indication that for all the jobs at domaines and their suppliers, there had to be an easier way to find people for open positions.

A 2019 survey of 500 Domaines and 50 Maisons de n̩goce (carried out jointly by the CAVB and the FNEB) revealed nearly 700 open positions for wine sales-people, for maintenance employees, tractor operators, administrative employees, packaging operators, vineyard employees etcetera. It should be pointed out that Burgundy comprises more than 4,500 Domaines, 400 Maisons and 17 cooperative cellars Рso the actual figure for open positions was certainly much, much higher.

With nearly €1 million Euros of investment, you can already get more than a flavour of it from the 1st September, that’s the new website launch-date to put potential employers and employees together.


www.vitabourgogne.com

*”The website is a platform that brings together information on the vine and wine sector in Burgundy, to put candidates and professionals in touch with each other:

For candidates: this is a website for information on the various specialisations, training courses and partner training organisations in the sector. There are many videos, job descriptions and other information available. Additionally, there are the contacts for training organizations, admission conditions, funding possibilities as well as the procedures to be followed. VITA Bourgogne is also the site to find all the job offers in the sector in Burgundy and apply online in a few clicks.

For professionals: the website streamlines the recruitment of future employees, particularly offering consulting advice and information on hiring, work-study programs etcetera.

“This website will be supplemented with an increased presence on social networks such as Instagram, Facebook, Twitter, Youtube and LinkedIn with the aim to grow the VITA Bourgogne community. As soon as sanitary conditions allow, the entire VITA Bourgogne team will be present at events in the Bourgogne Franche-Comté Region i.e. career forums, student fairs, career days, etcetera.

“Vita Bourgogne warmly thanks the Bureau Interprofessionnel des Vins de Bourgogne for its support from the very beginning of this great program.”

*My translation and summary of the Press-Release.

cantin’s 2010 irancy

By billn on August 31, 2020 #degustation

Benoit Cantin 2010 Irancy

A ‘northern Burgundy night! A few ‘house’ Chablis to start the night – because we were 4!

2010 Benoît Cantin, Irancy
‘Only the standard Irancy, but a magnum! Of-course, a cork that broke in two!
Medium colour – just! The nose has a small vibration of fruit and a herby note – rosemary – interesting and quite inviting. Nice and freshly mouth-filling, I like the energy here. Not über-concentrated, more of an airy style to this, but this is tasty, easy to appreciate wine: a magnum of not so great wine tends to hang around, but this was a bottle that emptied quite quickly for its size. A similar level to a very good Bourgogne here.
Rebuy – Yes

evangelist – moi?

By billn on August 30, 2020 #degustation

2005 DIAM

I’d hate to think of myself as an ‘evangelist’ for anything because I’m a fan of balance; as such, when it comes to sealing a bottle I’ll buy wine that has been stoppered with anything if I’m intending to drink it within 2-3 years – both colours – but if I’m cellaring whites I want DIAM. The ‘traditional’ alternative has cost me too much over the years. I’d take screwcap too, but I so rarely see them. For reds I don’t have any problem staying with cork, but here’s an interesting example of one of the earliest DIAM bottlings, but still in perfect condition after 15 years.

2005 Roger Belland, Santenay 1er La Comme
DIAM seals were commercially available since 2004, here’s an example for an early adopter, but in red. This seal was in perfect condition – wine ingress amounting to no more than 2mm – at that rate the wine will age 100 years before the seal is breached!
Plenty of colour. Fresh, intense, the last vestiges of creamy oak – this nose is now far more interesting than when the wine was young. There’s a little grain of tannin at the base of this wine but the texture is good and the concentration for the label is very impressive – that’s the vintage of course. The creamy oak on the nose overlays the fruit on the palate too – but gives this wine an extra something to its baseline and little extra gloss. The flavour widening impressively in the finish. It’s a shame that this is my last of these; what was once concentrated, oaky and lacking a little clarity is now very good – another 5 years and it could be a dry fine Santenay indeed!
Rebuy – Yes

28-August-20 – today it rained:

By billn on August 28, 2020 #vintage 2020

Some people were still smiling as they harvested though 🙂

27-August-20 – no harvesting, but there was lunch!

By billn on August 27, 2020 #degustation

lunch-remilly-renardes

Well, you have ease yourself out of such things – no(?)

2018 Françoise André, Pernand-Vergelesses Les Pins
Plenty of colour. A nose that has depth but is floral and forward too. Plenty of saline edge to the concentration, practically a little mint in the middle structure too. Young but already accessible – still, the least ready of these three wines – so I’d wait 2-3 years …
Rebuy – Yes

2013 Bouchard Père, Chassagne-Montrachet En Remilly
54mm diam 10 – top!
A wide nose, of textured floral depth and faint tarte au citron – I would say not just an inviting nose but distinguished too. Silky, lithe, direct – more Chevalier than Chassagne without doubt – widening with citrus intensity. Gorgeous wine…
Rebuy Yes

2018 Françoise André, Corton-Renardes
A little test of some whole-clusters in this vintage – and here’s a lovely, fresh, floral complexity with a finely focused and pretty berry fruit. Silken texture, melting structure – far too easy to drink but that’s the new Corton vernacular. Too delicious…
Rebuy – Yes

Burgundy Report

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