Fourrier’s 2003 Gevrey 1er Clos St.Jacques…

By billn on June 21, 2021 #degustation

Fourrier's 2003 Gevrey 1er Clos St.Jacques

Nostalgia alert: Ah, remember when these little puppies could be had for under £300 – no, not per bottle – per dozen! It seems it’s 3 years since I last popped one of these, so…

2003 Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.Jacques
The cork slides out a little more easily than I would prefer but it’s in-tact and the wine is fine.
Many 2003s have been in a kind of stasis, a plateau, of pre-maturity for nearly 10 years now but this wine is finally starting to show a little development; the colour is not one of youth and for the first time I’m getting a little age-related dried leaf plus soil and spice on the nose. That said, the dried leaves are still quite modest given the impressive weight of this ripe cherry fruit and even a floral accent with aeration – and it’s still quite a primary fruit too. For the vintage, I like the shape of this – not facile and round – here is a decent structure on which to pin the fruit. The tannins are modestly grained but ‘present’ – so not an ultra-elegant CSJ as this wine was in 2002. Overall, a mouthful of heart-warming and tasty flavour that is finally starting to show a little added, age-related, complexity – really a wine that’s far too easy to drink too!
Rebuy – Yes at the old pricing!

the last (floral) days…

By billn on June 15, 2021 #vintage 2021

Batch 2 - iris 2021

I thought I’d update you after this first image of the iris crop chez-moi this year. Two were missing in action this year – no blooms – but still a creditable 14 different ones this year. The yellows were the first and the last…

With all the seedlings, I’m running out of space for more.

A later flowering year but still a good year for them, without too much rainy weather over the flowering season – maybe I’ve another 10 days to enjoy the blooms before it’s all over for 2021…

the 99 potel volnay vv

By billn on June 13, 2021 #degustation

1999 Nicolas Potel Volnay Vieilles-Vignes

1999 Nicolas Potel, Volnay Vieilles-Vignes
The colour is starting to show some age and is certainly not clean and bright. The nose starts with a small whiff of brett but it’s borderline and seemingly reasonably volatile – it soon disappears from the glass – what remains is a very attractive blend of creamy iron and flowers – eventually a little tobacco/leather too. Lots of mouth-filling volume and fresh energy here – this is still a structural wine but one of mouth-watering sweetness that offsets some slight tannic bitters. Open, giving, still rather young but offering clarity to its many flavours. Bravo villages and just really getting into its stride, I think. The 97 of this was well thought of, indeed I bought plenty myself, but in comparison to this wine, that 1997 was always a little stolid. This has all you could wish for, for its label…
Rebuy – Yes

yesterday in the côtes…

By billn on June 10, 2021 #travels in burgundy 2021#vintage 2021

Beaune Gréves - mainly
Yesterday afternoon. Mainly Beaune Gréves but a little Toussaints and Bressandes to the right…

Obviously, some damage in Gevrey-Chambertin yesterday but the storms were extremely localised. The rest of the Côte d’Or was threatened – like Beaune above – but there was rarely more than occasional rumbles of thunder and a few spots of rain – unlike the 40mm of rain in just a few minutes that fell on the vines of Gevrey! Of course, there is damage here, which will compound the frost from April…

For me a trip to see the work (and what work!) that is underway at the Château de Pommard and then in the afternoon a chance to see the rare vine varieties that are being conserved in Beaune; Tressot Noir, Côt, Troyen, Gamay Castille or Oberlin Noir anyone? That latter variety the only one that was starting to flower – it was also the first (of these) in 2020 too.

As for flowering, in general; there are some early outliners in the vines – usually those in sunny spots, protected by walls – but it will be another week before the Côte d’Or really gets into the swing of flowering. Almost a week ago there were some flowerings in the ‘Americans’ as the locals describe the suckers that sprout from the American rootstocks – normally the proper flowering of the chardonnays and then pinots begins 10-14 days later…

For me, today will be a little typing, coffee drinking (terraces!), jogging and a visit to taste some Meursault…

offer of the day – lambrays 2019

By billn on June 08, 2021 #the market

It looks like this domaine have a lot of investments to recoup!

You can see the prices from my usual Swiss merchant with 2018, 2017 & 2016 pricing in the brackets!
— indicates not offered.

Domaine Clos des Lambrays:
Clos des Lambrays 2019 75cl 445.00 (258.00, 238.00, 225.00) * (Swiss Francs)
Clos des Lambrays 2019 150cl 910.00 (536.00, 481.00, —)

The price you see is ‘delivered’ but ex 7.7% Swiss purchase tax.

So, not quite up to Clos de Tart levels – but Lambrays look to be on their way to ‘equivalence‘ – eh?

It seems but a blink of the eye (to me) when I could buy magnums from this estate for well under 150 Swiss francs. Okay, I’m also old enough to remember the last bottles of Clos de Tart I bought on release for 70 UK pounds a bottle – the 2001 vintage – it seemed too much at the time but they remain grand vin!

3 fine bottles with less ‘fashionable’ labels

By billn on June 08, 2021 #degustation

Burgundy - Verret, Poulette, Saint Marc

2017 Verret, Côtes d’Auxerre Chardonnay Les Gaudiers
Chardonnay planted around Saint-Bris, cork sealed.
This is a a good wine of both aromatic and flavour freshness that I would automatically assume comes from ‘northern’ Burgundy. It’s not astoundingly good wine per se, but tasty and an absolute bargain for a Burgundy. There’s clarity and minerality to this flavour that makes it much more than an anonymously good chardonnay.
Rebuy – Maybe

2017 Poulette, Nuits St.Georges Les Vallerots
Yes. it’s a shame, but Nuits seems so out of fashion these days…
Medium-plus colour. The nose is airy and red-fruited – it’s quite an invitation. Not a deep, concentrated, structural Nuits, this – rather a wine of red-fruited energy and completely delicious flavour – there’s a joie de vivre here that is very Beaujolais in style – a wine that is drunk at an impressive pace – except that the bottle is too soon empty. Great, easier styled, villages Nuits – bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

2019 Saint Marc, Santenay Saint Jean Blanc
Whilst there’s a little oaky padding to the aromas, I have to say that this is very well done – it’s a good invitation to drink. In the mouth this has a nicely mouth-watering, almost saline minerality it’s completely delicious despite the visibility of the barrels here too. There’s more than good concentration though I’d keep this a year or two in cellar to lessen the visibility of the oak – no problem as DIAM-sealed – but this is a really super villages Santenay Blanc…
Rebuy – Yes

offer of the day – 2017 comtesse de chérisey

By billn on June 07, 2021 #the market

From a Swiss merchant. I have only tasted their 2018s and 2019s but here is a producer who I admire very much – they were one of my star domaines for the 2019 vintage. Don’t go looking for great bargains but the context of the current market these are not outrageously priced bottles:

Domaine Comtesse de Chérisey
Meursault, Bois de Blagny 2017 75cl 69.00* (Swiss Francs)
Meursault La Genelotte Monopole 1er Cru 2017 75cl 109.00
Meursault La Genelotte Monopole 1er Cru 2017 150cl 223.00
Puligny-Montrachet, Hameau de Blagny 1er Cru 2017 75cl 109.00
Puligny-Montrachet, Hameau de Blagny 1er Cru 2017 150cl 223.00
Puligny-Montrachet, Les Chalumeaux 1er Cru 2017 75cl 109.00
Puligny-Montrachet, Les Chalumeaux 1er Cru 2017 150cl 223.00
Puligny-Montrachet, La Garenne 1er Cru 2017 150cl 223.00

Rouge
Blagny La Genelotte Monopole 1er Cru 2017 75cl 109.00
Blagny La Genelotte Monopole 1er Cru 2017 150cl 223.00

*These prices include the local 7.7 purchase tax but not the cost of delivery – which will depend on order size.

Burgundy Report

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