29th august – wet côtes

By billn on August 29, 2007 #vintage 2007

la tache harvest
Harvesting in La Tâche

I left Switzerland at 7:00am – accompanied by thunder and lightening.

It’s 240km to Dijon where the BBC assured me I would find unbroken sunshine, but for the first 200 of those kilometres it rained – sometimes biblically. 40km to go and the rain stopped, 25km to go and we even have traces of blue sky and flashes of sun – amazing! It’s obviously rained overnight in the Côte d’Or and it’s hardly unbroken sunshine either but I’m not complaining.

grapesI started my tour of ‘vine inspection’ in Marsannay, slowly working my way south. Lunch at La Maison Vigneron (Chambolle), after lunch an appointment with a producer before continuing south to my harvest ‘home’ in Beaune.

The grapes in the Côte de Nuits look rather good, there are some shrivelled ones and an occasional bunch with rot, but this cursury inspection implied grapes way better than 2004 and possibly also 2006 – but inspection at the ‘table de trie’ will be the real judge as these are the grapes round the edges of the vineyards – I didn’t go deeper for fear of sinking in the wet red clay!
Eye-witnesses tell me the Côte de Beaune pinot noir is less well blessed – I decided not to check in the rain – Beaune and Savigny will apparently be ‘challenging’.

There is some small evidence of harvesting already done – piles of stems discarded outside cuveries and at the side of vineyards, but it’s clearly the exception so far. This morning I found only three groups of harvesters, the first surprisingly were in La Tâche; I thought at first it was La Grande Rue, but the LGR vineyard is only about 50 metres wide and these harvesters confirmed to me that they were working on the other side of the ‘line’ – you can not a slight colour change on the picture above. This central area of La Tâche is planted to a higher density – I assume this accounts for the difference in ripeness. The harvesting of a parcel of Vosne Les Beaux Monts (at least that’s what it looked like from the road) and also part of Les Petits Vougeots were the only others in full swing.

Whilst in the cellar of my afternoon appointment there was was thunder and heavy rain – it’s still raining now (6pm) about 3 hours later. I’m glad we didn’t start harvesting today.

Forecasters seem to agree that we have about 10 days of clear weather starting tomorrow, we will start with some Beaune 1er Cru, – let’s see how bad it can be.

itchy grape-sorting fingers

By billn on August 28, 2007 #vintage 2007

Tomorrow I’m in the Côtes.

graphMy normal harvest ‘home’ will start with minor appellations on Thursday so I will have plenty of time tomorrow to look around the vineyards and see the plight – or not – of the grapes. I know that some have already started their harvests, while others tell me:

“We will begin the 4th of September, we must wait, it’s not enough ripe everywhere. The weather forecasts are not bad so we take the risk …”

Certainly the weather was poor last week, but this week and next it is set fair (allegedly!) but still rather cool for the time of the year, exemplified by the graph above (which I stole from Météo Savigny-lès-Beaune) that shows you how much colder August has been vs the average!

Updates over the next couple of days.

chablis 2006 tisserandes

By billn on August 27, 2007 #degustation

tisser2006 Chablis Les Tisserandes
This is a cheap cuvée sold each year and bottled for the Co-op in Switzerland – I don’t know who by – almost always on a special offer and in this case for just under 10 Swiss francs – about £4 or €7. Each year I buy a bottle, but rarely more – in such a vintage as 2005 it was somehow watery and inconsequential – how could they have made a decent in in 2006? Don’t expect miracles at this price-point, but this is actually not bad. Medium pale green-yellow. A wide if faint, but interesting high-toned nose. Clean, well textured with a very nice crescendo of acidity coming into the mid-palate. Medium length. What helps this wine deliver is that acidity – it works rather well. If I have a party this is worth considering, though for my house wine I’d still rather pay the 50% extra and go for the Drouhin Chablis or the Jadot.
Rebuy – Maybe

Afterwards I drank a lovely 2001 Krossfelder (a Coop) Alsace Riesling that cost little more than this Tisserandes – it was intense, balanced and tasty – a far better wine.

vitis vinifera/pinot noir genome unravelled

By billn on August 27, 2007 #a bit of science

The finished sequence is the work of a consortium of French and Italian researchers led by Patrick Wincker, a geneticist based at Genoscope — the French national genetic-sequencing facility in Evry. Full analysis of the more than 30,000 genes contained within the sequence could aid breeding strains with novel flavours or better pest resistance. Source

Link to the project at the Centre National de Séquençage. Clearly the PFVini will be unhappy!

potel 99 bourgogne maison dieu

By billn on August 26, 2007 #degustation

1999 Nicolas Potel, Bourgogne Maison Dieutry to find this wine...
Medium, medium-plus ruby-red colour. The nose is deep, with dark oak coating more distant baked red cherry, topped by higher-toned alcoholic notes. Initially good acidity starts to turn a little bright in the mid-palate and even faintly bitter as it runs into the finish – but I’m being picky here. To focus purely on the acidity ignores reasonably well grained tannin and ripe, oak coated fruit. This remains an above average and quite young bourgogne that is pretty well balanced and still needs a couple more years in the cellar – I decided it would always retain its oaky base, but to prove me wrong, on day two the remnants were largely free of it and very nice.
Rebuy – Maybe

varia

By billn on August 26, 2007 #other sites

The trails and tribulations front of house…

The top restaurants; pole dancing, vomiting “happens all the time”, sex in the washroom – no it’s busy, let’s try under the table…

le montrachet, j-f bazin (1990)

By billn on August 25, 2007 #books, maps, magazines, films even podcasts!

montrachet“At first it seems ridiculous to devote a whole book to a few acres of stony hillside, owned through the ages by an ever-changing, ever-squabbling gang of greedy rustics, producing a mere 30,000 bottles of wine per year.”

So starts the foreward by Nicolas Faith who edited this English translation of Jean-François Bazin’s 1988 publication in French, Le Montrachet, and it’s about the only tongue-in-cheek moment in the whole book. Don’t let that put you off. Despite the profiles of the domaines that own parts of Montrachet (or it’s hyphenated neighbours) being 20 years out of date, this 190 page book is worth any second-hand purchase you might find.

Bazin meticulously works his way through the history of the area and the families that owned parts of the vineyard, what was Montrachet and what tried to be Montrachet. This translation of his French text original is very well done and reads easily. I’ll leave you with a couple of quotes:

Showing that counterfeiting is as old as the sun:

“In 1822 André Jullien wrote: “Meursault… produces many highly appreciated white wines which, as they leave the area, often take on the name of the wines of Mont-Rachet which they resemble to some degree, though they do not have all their fine quality.” A century earlier, 1728 the priest Arnoux warned his readers against “the vines which are neighbours to that vineyard, for they somewhat resemble it in quality and sometimes pass for Montrachet”. “That is why you should be sure of having a trustworthy agent if you wish to procure some”, he advises.”

Finally, did someone mention squabbling rustics?

“It is probable that the strange greenish-yellow colour of Montrachet deepened along with progress in vinification and preservation of wines. In the eighteenth century it doubtless had the transparent palour of a young priest at court. Greenish-gold? Chablis and Pouilly-Fuissé also claim this mysterious blend of colour and its reflections. Yellow? “No” they say in Chassagne “Puligny is yellow.” Yellow? “No” they say in Puligny “Meursault is yellow.” “

varia

By billn on August 24, 2007 #asides#other sites

  • Adding fuel to the bottle replication fire, this is an excellent piece.
  • Snails, hired women, Paris Hilton, Tina Turner, Pommard and Ketchup – in that order!
  • And this I like very much – Chateau Pétrogasm
  • Finally, does (should) wine have a gender?

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