more travel – this time paid

By billn on March 20, 2008 #asides#travel

easter buddies bunniesDays of meetings and customer visits whilst avoiding tidal waves of reorganisations back at home – all will come to roost eventually. I spent yesterday evening with a glass (or 2) of chardonnay in a pub while watching football – I don’t drink beer, but white wine by the glass in a pub is usually fit for purpose, red not so often!

I’ll take a few interesting bottles to our friend’s place for the Easter weekend and maybe even write a note about them sometime early next week – I might even ski…

Have a nice Easter…

already writing a list to santa?

By billn on March 20, 2008 #accessories#asides

angels share

You know you wants it! [Gollum]

“The Angelshare single-bottle cellar that special bottle of wine in its own temperature and humidity controlled time capsule for that special occasion in the future, whether it’s a birthday, anniversary, graduation or other significant event in your life or of those closest to you.
The compact dimensions and elegant, understated design makes the single-bottle cellar a focal point in any setting and an ideal presentation package to treasure.”

wine ‘tourism’ and independence

By billn on March 19, 2008 #travel

I use the quotation marks because I’m not really talking about ‘real’ tourists, rather the ever-increasing global band of ‘writers’ who travel the world at the expense of regional marketing groups – worldwide – it seems a nice life! In itself there is nothing wrong with this symbiotic relationship as the journalist arrives, learns, tastes and (hopefully) objectively provides opinion and some exposure for the region – this is the professional version. What raised my eyebrows during the Grands Jours de Bourgogne (a visit which was paid for with my own cash – but did get me invitations to some nice meals!) was the number of ‘professionals’ that I met who had had their air tickets and hotels paid for by the burgundy marketing groups – the number of people was not the issue, rather the apparent lack of knowledge of the region that a few exhibited. Personally speaking I see the Grands Jours as the ideal opportunity (for example) to taste a number of Volnays in one room with their producers and then Pommards in another room with their producers, to learn about and contrast and eventually deepen your knowledge of styles, terroir etc.. Some I spoke to needed help with grape varieties, hierarchy of crus etc., etc.. I hope I’m not being elitist about this, but I expect that if someone was paying my fare, I would have (at least) made some basic research! In this latter case, I wonder what value will eventually accrue to BIVB/AVCO etc…

That leads me to the term ‘independent’. One of the ‘professionals’ I met described themselves as a completely independent critic – that got me thinking – can a critic ever be independent? I suppose it depends on the context of the word independent; a writer who occasionally writes a wine-related critique can largely be said to be independent because their living is not directly linked to the vine. Anyone whose income stream is dependent on their critique of wines is by definition, not independent of the industry – whatever they say, even if not paid directly by that industry – but that doesn’t mean that they are not independent of thought. 😉

sylvie esmonin 2005 gevrey

By billn on March 18, 2008 #degustation

sylvie esmonin gevrey chambertin

I bought one bottle each of this, the Vieilles-Vignes and the Clos St.Jacques to compare and then decide which to purchase more of – but within days everything was sold – so the bigger brother and sister are packed away for a date together in the future.
2005 Sylvie Esmonin, Gevrey-Chambertintry to find this wine...
Medium-plus colour. The nose starts with blue and black-skinned fruit over soft base that very faintly hints to stems – slowly the fruit becomes a nice precise currant note with a passing mint-leaf aroma. Silky-soft texture that’s linear to start and widens a little before black-cherry fruit takes over. The finish is distinguished by a slowly lingering softly-sweet flavour.
Rebuy – Yes

Plus a day in the life

remoissenet 2005 gevrey-chambertin

By billn on March 16, 2008 #degustation

remoissenet gevrey chambertin 2005

2005 Remoissenet, Gevrey-Chambertintry to find this wine...
(Half-bottle) Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose needs 5 minutes in the glass, but then it sparkles with lovely red berry fruit, though after an hour it’s closed down a lot, leaving only sullen darker elements and faint chocolate. Very smooth texture, decent enough acidity, lovely breadth of fruit across the tongue and just an added dash of creamy oak flavour on the finish. The tannins are currently buried; this is very sophisticated for a villages Gevrey that I might wish had an extra edge of acidity, but I’m being really picky!
Rebuy – Yes

grands jours jet-lag

By billn on March 15, 2008 #site updates#travel

grands jours de bourgogneBack from Beaune and ready to sleep. Three full days in a visitor-packed Burgundy. I went during the Grands Jours de Bourgogne which lasts seven days for the 2,000 or so registered attendees, 3 days / 2 nights was all I could spare. While there I managed to pack in 3 lunches, 2 dinners, well over 100 wines and (trumpet fanfare in the background) the best wine I ever had with a dinner – and from an merely average vintage too – 1948! Oh and did I mention it was a white? I must try to avoid any similarity to reporters who make you sick by eulogising over their most recent 48’s and 28’s etc. Oops, bugger, I had quite a special 28 too!

It was great to catch up with everyone and to see the efforts they put in to all the organised events – more on those later. Most of my notes will get written up over the next couple of weeks and end up in the ‘spring report’ as I’m short of material 😉

philippe et francis léchenaut 05 bourgogne ‘hcdn’

By billn on March 12, 2008 #degustation

2005 Philippe et Vincent Léchenaut, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuitstry to find this wine...
A nice, bright medium-plus colour. The nose shows plenty of spicy, deep-toned oak and eventually higher toned, slightly diffuse red fruit. The palate is less dense than the best 05 bourgognes and certainly less sweet/ripe than the majority, but still with a decent intensity, if lots of oak flavour. Actually pretty good with food, less interesting without. Cheaper, but short of the quality of last week’s Jayer-Gilles.
Rebuy – Maybe

Burgundy Report

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