Clearly the 2005 bourgognes have spoiled us – intermediate age wines like these wither in the shadow of those 05’s – but like the recent Côte de Chalonaise, these really need to be judged in about another 3-5+ years time when they have started to show some more maturity.
2001 Ghislaine Barthod, Bourgogne
Medium colour. A soft red fruit nose with a faint cedar top note, slowly develops more density to the red core and eventually a little redcurrant. Well textured with plenty of forward fruit and again a faint edge of cedar – but at this level it’s additive – I do though find the overall profile slightly jammy. A simple but balanced and quite tasty luncheon bourgogne that never quite gets the pulse increasing.
Rebuy – Maybe
2002 Ghislaine Barthod, Bourgogne
Just a little darker in colour. The nose goes darker and deeper; a hint riper and no cedar but clearly a few diffuse alcoholic overtones. In the mouth it’s fuller with an edge more tannin and acidity that is slightly tart – it’s not a problem, just it’s personality. On the back of the acidity is a little burst of intensity on the mid-palate before fading into the finish. Less smooth than the 2001 but more material. I look forward to making another comparison in a few years.
Rebuy – Maybe

2005 des Varoilles, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos des Varoilles
Medium-plus colour. The nose starts with a wild brambly black fruit – slowly goes deeper with faint caramel. Wide and intense – again with dark-hued fruit. Reasonably well-packaged tannin and very good length though the tannin resurfaces here. It’s still brusque and bruising in its intensity so will need a few years in the cellar – but I will buy a few for the ride.
Rebuy – Yes

2002 Joseph Voillot, Pommard 1er Les Rugiens
Medium colour. Initially the nose is tight and thin, 10 minutes brings a savoury depth and faintly floral width. In the mouth it’s a narrow entry, the defining feature of this wine is it’s acidity – it’s slightly forward, but everything flows from it – soft texture and lovely expansion in the mid-palate before an impressively lingering finish. My kind-a wine.
Rebuy – Yes

I know that for years I must have been unlucky, but finally, a Barthod that impresses me! I wouldn’t propose that you drink it now, but…
2002 Ghislaine Barthod, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Fuées
Medium-plus colour. A heavily perfumed nose, high floral tones and low tones of good fruity depth – takes quite some time to take on a modicum of elegance. In the mouth it’s about balanced intensity – almost like the Bonnes-Mares which it borders. Deep red fruit, covered tannins and good acidity bubbling below the surface. It took a little time for me to warm to it but I really savoured those last drops. Leave it at least 5 years in the cellar as it’s close to grand cru quality.
Rebuy – Yes

PLUS: Showcasing Beaujolais

1993 Méo-Camuzet, Corton Clos Rognets
I last opened one of these Méo’s about 3 years ago and it was a big wine, I expected nothing less tonight, but this was not bright in the glass. The nose started very earthy, then went through a mushroom phase before an understated red fruit impression. In the mouth the acidity is to the fore, though not too much so. The flavours are middle-weight and interesting but far below expectation. Shame.
Rebuy – No (But other bottles have been much better – in fact I’d pay $25 for an 93 Aloxe-Corton that tasted like this – but not more)

Dinner with a friend who can really cook, so some digging in the cellar was required. If I’m honest I was a little disappointed to be opening one of these, but following the relative disappointment of my 2001 Henri Boillot Corton-Charlemagnes, I decided I would rather enjoy my last Roulot young than be disappointed in later years (or even now!) with p.ox. It wasn’t quite a 10 out of 10 performance, but it wasn’t too far away:
2000 Roulot, Meursault 1er Perrières
Relatively young in colour, a nose that soared with brioche and eventually creme brulee. Not the tight minerality of 3 or 4 years ago, indeed a little too relaxed in the middle but the finish was super and mirrored the nose. No real regret for opening now as it was still super.
Rebuy – Yes

2005 Vincent et Denis Berthaut, Fixin Les Clos
Medium-plus colour. The nose is both wide and deep with higher-toned powdery elements and occasional flashes of deep cherry. Intense and mouth-watering with a decent finish – in-between is fruit with good depth and submerged tannin. For a humble ‘villages’ wine this impresses and is reasonably sophisticated.
Rebuy – Yes