2007 David Clark, Morey St.Denis Les Porroux
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is a lovely mix of dark berries and cherries, a suggestion of reduction but nothing like his bourgognes. Width, softly textured and super balance. There is a lovely sweetness to the dark fruit and it lingers very well in the finish. There’s even a suggestion of tannin in the mid-palate too – a surprise considering the ‘light-but-nice’ poise of the domaine’s 2006. This is a very, very above average 2007. Super – really!
Rebuy – Yes

I know Jamie’s not a big fan of lenticels (!) but this one has no problems. The cuvée Lees is a blend of the lees of all the domaine’s red wines – Maranges, Chambertin etc. – so can only be a bourgogne. I think that 2007 was the first time they did this. Given the late malos and bottling of the 08s I think that this has been in bottle less than a month, clearly you need a long time for the fine lees to settle!

2008 Camille Giroud, Bourgogne Cuvée Lees
Stood up in the cellar for 4 days before opening – it wasn’t enough to make the wine shiny bright. Medium, medium-plus colour, The nose has a wild young-wine freshness and immediacy, given an hour or so there is a direct and perfect raspberry note. In the mouth this is wide, very complex, sweet and cushioned. The acidity has a a bit of a leading edge of sharpness (perhaps exacerbated by the suspended material?) but the padding largely covers it. Good length and very tasty right now, in fact in the right circumstances you might be forgiven for thinking it a much higher AOC. This bottle found many friends…
Rebuy – Yes (and I did)

2004 Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles-Vignes
Medium-plus colour. The nose starts a little, inky and earthy with plenty of background reduction – the reduction is a minor flavour component too – it neads to aerate a little, so I decant. An hour later and there’s a higher-toned red fruit note, faint alcohol too but the reduction is gone. The last drops have a lovely redcurrant lift. Decent impact, perhaps a little monolithic like some other Fourrier 04s, but the lingering flavours and the overall balance are very good. I don’t discern any vintage character, but I have the impression I’d probably rather drink a majority now than leave them all in the cellar.
Rebuy – Maybe