The thoughts of Maureen Downey.
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2010 jc boisset aloxe les valozières

After the corked Jadot I had to quickly find a substitute…
2010 JC Boisset, Aloxe-Corton 1er Les Valozières
Only medium young colour. The nose surprises you after the modest colour – actually, it doesn’t so much surprise you as punch you in the face! Pungent, rather tarty, over-perfumed cherry fruit, and even the impression of a little alcoholic ‘burn’. In the mouth there’s quite a contrast: it’s rather composed, stylish and finely textured – there’s even a hint of minerality dovetailing with just-about perfect acidity, acidity that provides a lift to the high-toned fruit flavour of the mid-palate. The finish rolls modestly off the tongue but begs another sip. This wine is just a box of surprises! Given enough time, the nose is more composed and ‘traditional’. Hmm – only 5 more to go…
Rebuy – Yes
louis jadot 1998 beaune les grèves
el bulli wine auction
Probably the closest I could now come to El Bulli.
A lot of decent prices for Burgundy (in a three star context), it might be an interesting auction to follow. It seems they liked Le Moine!
jadot 1999 beaune 1er les grèves

Okay, after yesterday’s disappointment, at least I can still smell and taste today – so why not another 99 Beaune? This is a négoce wine, and versus the usual quality of Jadot’s domaine offerings, it’s a bit of a disappointment too!
1999 Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Les Grèves
The colour shows more age than yesterday’s Germain, it’s not as dark either. Likewise, the nose already has some development – mature leaf mixes with rather unripe and slightly ungainly green notes – but it’s not pyrazine – there’s a deep, slightly baked base of fruit but initially the herbs are dominant. In the mouth there’s a sweet core of fruit but as the wine expands – and expand it does – the leading edge of the acidity is harsh and leaves an aftertaste of sweet fruit buffered by slightly unripe tannin, Actually, another ten years and this unripe element will fade a little, but the baseline is, drinkable as it is, and as good a vintage as this is, that this is far from a Grèves to put on your shopping list…
Rebuy – No
‘no american complained…’
Pinot Exceptionalism? From the wine economist…
Also (on a completely different tack), Part 1: The idiot’s guide to idiot’s guides…
château de chorey 1999 beaune 1er les cras

Maybe the last bottle for a few days – an itchy throat and cough not yet marring the taste buds but it seems imminent!
1999 Château de Chorey (Germain), Beaune 1er Les Cras VV
I so wanted to say nice things about this wine, but in the end it disappoints – today at-least. The medium-plus glossy colour invites you: The nose starts spicy and a bit oaky. In the mouth this is lithe, muscled but supported still by barrel staves – it’s so clear in the texture. I wait for aeration – surely that will bring some balance(?) The nose with air develops a reasonably strong pyrazine note (3/10) to add to the dark red fruit and (probably oak) spice. This is clearly a concentrated wine, and one with a lovely acidity, but there is an astringency both to the tannin (oak tannin?) and the overall structure – a little bitterness in the finish too, and it’s far from moreish. I know it’s still something of a baby, but even with a pristine bottle, such as this, I’m not particularly unhappy that there are no more in the cellar, but I’m sad for Benoit too….
Rebuy – No
ten years apart – a brace of corton…

2003 Michel Juillot, Corton Perrières
Much deeper colour than the 1993, clearly much younger too – here’s a 2003 that’s holding up very well. The nose is deep and round – roast fruit too but that comes with the vintage territory – hints of herbs at its circumference. Weight, but there’s really a good acidic balance. I recently tried the ‘96 of this but this is wine has much better weight and for the vintage is clearly much more successful. I like this very much. Nice to have a few more in the cellar.
Rebuy – Yes
1993 André Nudant, Corton Bressandes
The colour shows some age but retains just a kernel of red. The nose is deep and leafy with a warm sweetness – mature and rather good. Lively balance comes from the acidity, good intensity too. There’s a hint of bitterness from faint tannin in the finish, but I’m rather enjoying this. Clean, relatively mature – lots to like.
Rebuy – Yes
energy and exotic fruit…
I loved this post. I have experience of tasting at ‘larger producers’ where the ‘host(ess)’ might suddenly throw in ‘exotic fruit’ and whilst I might nod in understanding, it’s not something I actually wrote myself – yet, how many other people tasted there? Why? The number of notes I subsequently read with ‘exotic fruit’ as a descriptor.
I’m pretty sure it’s a game that some producers play – a bonus going to the employee whose phrase was copied the most! 😉