Domaine des Chézeaux, by a big margin the largest owners of Griotte-Chambertin, have two metayeurs for their holdings (the two parcels were acquired at different times); Domaine René Leclerc and Domaine Ponsot. For a number of years there was confusion about who made the wine that was sold under the Chézeaux label; the first step to improving this was the addition of the metayeur’s name on the front label, the second was to goto just one wine – in this case they marketed only the Ponsot wine and passed a couple of barrels (ex Leclerc) off into the trade. Now for the 2010 vintage they have, once again, decided to sell both metayeurs’ versions. This is the essence of Burgundian complexity, all from one small 1.6 ha microcosm; a Leclerc label, a Ponsot label, this year two Chézeaux labels and some years, négoce labels too – all derived from one owner!

A Griotte-Chambertin aide memoire…

• Vintage 2001 and older – Chézeaux wine could be from either producer
• Vintage 2002, 2003 & now 2010 – name of the producer is found on the labels
• Vintage 2004 to 2009 – only the Ponsot wine under a Chézeaux label

And here are the two ‘Chézeaux’ from 2010, and clearly the moment you cut the foil, you will know which bottle you have. Here is the crux, the grapes come from the same vineyard, but there the similarity ends. Vines are cared for in different ways, yields are not the same, harvesting dates are different, macerations/extractions that differ, one wine made with new wood and sulfur, the other with low sufur and no new wood, bottling at different dates, and finally, sealed with cork by Leclerc and plastic (Ardea) by Ponsot. At least in their youth, I would be amazed if there is any similarity between the two – and clearly there isn’t…

2010 des Chézeaux (Leclerc), Griotte-Chambertin
The cork doesn’t smell all that great – not TCA, but strangely musty – fortunately the wine seems okay. Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is a fine advertisement for ‘Griotte’ with a very pretty core of shiny red fruit – more cranberry/redcurrant than cherry – relatively simple in its youthfulness, but lovely. A hint of cushioning to the texture and an understated lick of tannin too. The acidity, like the tannin, seems rather understated but bubbles through as the mid-palate intensity grows, and becomes more mouth-watering. Subtly long. This is a very pretty wine that is also very ‘young Griotte’ in terms of its beauty yet lack of complexity – a perfectly balanced wine to wait for.
Rebuy – Yes

2010 des Chézeaux (Ponsot), Griotte-Chambertin
Previously tasted from barrel. Medium-plus colour – certainly a shade darker than the Leclerc. The nose starts very shy, just a stewed fruit note. The aromas eventually widen a little but it’s far from compelling! In the mouth, however, this is very impressive indeed: A pure essence of intense fruit – it’s cordial-like. Like the nose there is the slightest suggestion of stewed fruit in the mid-palate but it quickly widens to cherry stones and a faint hint of cream that is very long. I preferred this wine from barrel, but Ponsot wines are made to be drunk from 20 years – let’s see! On day two, the nose is much more ‘up my strasse’ with a beam of pure fruit – the stewed aspects now departed.
Rebuy – Yes

Of the two, I think I’d rather drink the Leclerc today, and I should say there is much less rusticity here than there once was (since (son) François Leclerc has been given his head) but the greatest fun will be found in future comparisons!

I recognise their headquarters in Savigny, but I can’t recall tasting many wines from de Villamont – they have quite a mix of domaine vines, and like most producers in Burgundy, they are trying to emphasise quality over quantity – so I heard! – this should be a good test, despite the different vintages.

[Edited with day two impression] Overall they showcase their respective vintages: The de Villamont is like fruit preserve, the Ponsot is like the fresh fruit – choose your favourite…

2009 Henri de Villamont, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Feusselottes
Medium-plus colour. The nose starts deep and ripe – there’s an emphasis on licorice, some dried herbs too but there’s also a ripe, dark-red fruit. Understated entry, but there is a welling of intensity that’s coupled to an understated grab from the tannin – decent but not excessive extraction which certainly seems to deliver an interesting extra dimension of textured flavour as you head into the finish. Just a hint of violet perfume in the mid-palate flavours and good length. This reflects its vintage and I would say good winemaking too. Day two and there’s a slightly offputting cola aroma – so drink it all up on day 1!
Rebuy – Yes

2010 Ponsot/Chézeaux, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Charmes
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose has higher tones than the Feusselottes, more complex but also clearly more ephemeral – rather graceful, particularly as rounds out in the glass. This is more intense and direct – though delivered with less heft and more energy than the last wine. The tannic structure is less evident – again a good showcase for the vintage. Day two and this is just a perfectly ‘together’ wine – very, very impressive.
Rebuy – Yes

I’ll follow their evolution over the next couple of days…

My first 2011 at home. And very tasty it was too.

2011 Louis Chenu et Filles, Savigny-lès-Beaune Blanc
Bottled a little earlier than usual because they had already run out of 2010 and needed something to sell!
Medium-pale lemon-yellow. After the last of the previous day’s Chassagne, this has a more floral aromatic with an occasional savoury reference. In the mouth it’s a little sweeter than the Chassagne and has just a little more balancing acidity too – if not the overall density of that wine. The floral component of the nose is equally on display in the flavour profile. Flighty, interesting, flavoursome and with a good balance to boot. I can also imagine this wine selling-out double-quick!
Rebuy – Yes

Looks like I’ll be going through a white wine phase – it’s 33°C outside – let’s see how long it (both!) lasts 😉

2009 Maison Champy, Chassagne-Montrachet
Medium lemon-yellow. The nose starts with a faint soap-powder note that has me thinking more of 2010 than 2009, but there’s a warm core of ripe, green-skinned fruit too. There’s a little richness but the acidity has a good-enough balance to bring. Just also a hint of the savoury in the sweet mid-palate – very decent concentration here. Overall, this a very tasty wine which I’d happily buy again, but just missing a hint of pizzaz that might have me actively searching for it.
Rebuy – Yes

2010 Louis Jadot (Gagey), Beaune 1er Les Grèves Clos Blanc
Medium lemon-yellow. The nose has a faint creamy undertow from the oak, but largely this wine is about a tight core of fruit. In the mouth this has silky texture and good intensity too – there’s just a little oaky angularity too, but this fades within about 25 minutes. The flavour is quite citrussy and has fine balance, just a hint of minerality in the finish. This wine needs a little longer to round out than the Bressandes, and to be honest, I prefer that wine – but that doesn’t mean that this isn’t a honey! Lovely wine.
Rebuy – Yes