A bit of a step-up from the villages – or it should be – but this wine’s still not that much more expensive than father Claude’s domaine villages wine.

2006 La Gibryotte, Charmes-Chambertin
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is a little more mineral than the villages and shows plenty of wood spice too but the core is a very lovely dark, macerating cherry. In the mouth there’s a lot grainy texture – and that’s from the wood. The intensity is fine with a very nice supporting acidity, eventually the fruit comes too. Overall I find it too woody – after 5 years should be better balanced than this – there is lovely acidity, lovely fruit but marring, jarring, oak texture and finally a bitterness from those wood tannins too. About 70% of this wine I love.
Rebuy – No

Proportionally the villages Gevrey is the real winner here – I’ll buy some more of that – but despite some lovely parts, this curate’s egg is (for me) spoiled by its woodiness. Will it get better? – maybe, but I’d rather invest in something that gives me confidence.