2010 Louis Chenu Père et Filles, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Aux Clous
Barely medium colour. The nose is lovely: lot’s and lots of red berries, shaded to raspberry, but with an undertow of something faintly earthy and mneral. Surprising intensity here (after the colour – such is Burgundy!) – there is so much flavour here, strawberry/ raspberry fruit (again) underpinned with that earthy mineral note that shows on the nose. Just a first class balance here: faintly padded texture and lots of flavour. At twice the price, this would be something of a bargain!
Rebuy – Yes

This Meursault had a very smelly cork indeed – had me thinking oxidised, but I won’t say ‘premature’!

1983 Jacques Prieur, Meursault Clos de Mazeray
The colour is certainly aged, but mercifully the aroma seems to have little to do with the cork. The aromas start a little murky, then there’s home-made lemonade(!), slowly but surely a decent red berry note comes into focus, underpinned by a leafy note that seemingly adds texture – this just gets better and better. Lithe, slightly lean in stature as the acidity has an element that isn’t completely ripe, but overall – no great problem. There’s decent enough concentration and an (overall) interesting glass of wine – the fruit seems to have just enough sweetness to make me want to go back again, and again…
Rebuy – No Chance

2007 Comtes Lafon, Monthélie 1er Les Duresses
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose starts a little burly but settles down, softening with time in the glass: fine red fruit and a Volnay-esque perfume – very nice indeed! Lithe, lovely acidity, slowly growing, fresh mid-palate flavours – you will hardly note any tannin – this is really on a much higher level than I had assumed. Lovely wine – for me this is always the ‘value’ (red) cuvée chez Lafon.
Rebuy – Yes

After the corked Jadot I had to quickly find a substitute…

2010 JC Boisset, Aloxe-Corton 1er Les Valozières
Only medium young colour. The nose surprises you after the modest colour – actually, it doesn’t so much surprise you as punch you in the face! Pungent, rather tarty, over-perfumed cherry fruit, and even the impression of a little alcoholic ‘burn’. In the mouth there’s quite a contrast: it’s rather composed, stylish and finely textured – there’s even a hint of minerality dovetailing with just-about perfect acidity, acidity that provides a lift to the high-toned fruit flavour of the mid-palate. The finish rolls modestly off the tongue but begs another sip. This wine is just a box of surprises! Given enough time, the nose is more composed and ‘traditional’. Hmm – only 5 more to go…
Rebuy – Yes

1999 not so good? Hmm, Bill – why don’t you try the 1998 and let us know what you think?

Well that’s a good idea – thanks – I will!

1998 Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Les Grèves
Corked to bits! Bugger!
Rebuy – No

Okay, after yesterday’s disappointment, at least I can still smell and taste today – so why not another 99 Beaune? This is a négoce wine, and versus the usual quality of Jadot’s domaine offerings, it’s a bit of a disappointment too!

1999 Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Les Grèves
The colour shows more age than yesterday’s Germain, it’s not as dark either. Likewise, the nose already has some development – mature leaf mixes with rather unripe and slightly ungainly green notes – but it’s not pyrazine – there’s a deep, slightly baked base of fruit but initially the herbs are dominant. In the mouth there’s a sweet core of fruit but as the wine expands – and expand it does – the leading edge of the acidity is harsh and leaves an aftertaste of sweet fruit buffered by slightly unripe tannin, Actually, another ten years and this unripe element will fade a little, but the baseline is, drinkable as it is, and as good a vintage as this is, that this is far from a Grèves to put on your shopping list…
Rebuy – No