Profile

2005 Remoissenet, Mercurey Clos Fortoul
Medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose starts with a little mineral, some herbs and slightly cola-esque top-notes, but slowly a very, very pretty and slightly creamy red fruit note comes through. In the mouth there’s decent concentration, good acidity and some ripe, grainy tannin. Not fat but it’s a lithe impression. Faintly lingering. The structure hints to Nuits, but the fruit not. An interesting wine that has the balance for a long, profitable life.
Rebuy – Yes

1996 Thomas-Moillard, Corton Clos du Roi
Medium-plus colour. With any volume of wine in the glass, the aromas tend towards leafy, clean notes over a tighter, darker depth. As the glass drains the aromas first add a little raisined fruit before a very, very pretty red fruit comes centre-stage – really impressive. Slightly forward acidity – the 1996 vernacular – and slightly metallic flavours – the young Corton vernacular. The tannin builds as you roll the wine around your mouth – this is very much a 12-year-old youngster. There’s plenty of mid-palate depth that hints toward earthy flavours, but it remains reasonably primary. There’s almost ‘enjoyment’ here, but wait another 2-3 years before returning!
Rebuy – Yes

Profile: Fougeray de Beauclair

Pretty for 2-3 years the 2000s became a little sullen for the following two. Many are now blossoming again, particularly at the villages and selected 1er cru level. I found a relative bargain here, 2 4 bottles from the case already consumed; perfect for drinking now and over the next few years. The Clos Marion is a dreamy little vineyard that’s almost invisible from the the road, protected by a stout wall. Unless you need to get in with a tractor, access is through the gated courtyard of a lovely old house – but it’s current owners have nothing to do with the domaine.
2000 Fougeray de Beauclair, Fixin Clos Marion
Medium ruby-red, just a hint of amber at the rim. For the first hour or so there was very interesting, truffley red fruit with an undercurrent of mushrooms, after an hour, no mushrooms and rather a minty red fruit with a little herb crust – from 4 bottles opened over 10 days, this was the only one with the mushrooms. Over the tongue it has a comforting texture and just enough acidity to balance the warm fruit. The tannin can still be found if you chew. Quite smooth in a non-traditional Fixin way. A good, sweet finish – as mature as is possible whilst still retaining real fruit flavours. I think I could drink a few of these heartwarming bottles during the closing summer weeks.
Rebuy – Yes