2002 Rene Engel, Grands-Echézeaux
Medium ruby-red. The nose has hints of dark, spicy oak and turned earth – as the glass drains there are beautiful flashes of red berries. Perfect freshness and still grainy, though generally background tannins. The flavours make a broad panorama on the tongue and are a mix of red berries and more raisined, lingering notes. Very long. I had the 99 a few months ago, but this seems much better focused and ‘together’ if perhaps not quite as concentrated. A lovely bottle and far from a shame to enjoy now.
Rebuy – Yes

I was potentially setting up a bit of a whinge – the 1986 Mosel was opened first and the colour of the wine was medium lemon-yellow. As the worm of the corkscrew slid into the cork of the Chablis, the last of a tasty half-case, I was already mentally writing this note: ‘7 year-old oxidised Chablis versus baby-faced 22 year-old riesling’. Fortunately like every other bottle from this case – good quality at a decent price.

2001 Long-Depaquit, Chablis 1er Les Vaillons
Medium golden colour. The nose has some high tones of green-skinned fruit that balances a honied base enough to retain a fresh impression. Width and a little sweet fat – the acidity is fresh though from time to time nearly spiky. The flavours are mineral, a little baked bread and a final salty tang. The finish is quite long and totally savoury.
Rebuy – Yes

2005 Françoise et Denis Clair, St.Aubin 1er Murgers Dents du Chien
A young, relatively pale lemon-yellow. Slow to open, but eventually quite round aromas that are perhaps a little alcoholic at the top-end, with ripe fruit and a hint of almond. The impression in the mouth is of a wine that’s become rather four-square, dense, and not all that giving. It’s clearly fresh enough and has a good core of concentration. The length is still decent in a savoury way. I don’t normally hold with whites closing down, but this is certainly quite dumbed-down versus its release.
Rebuy – Maybe