About 10 years ago I filled my boots with 1996 GCs from this domaine – all of which cost me a little over 60 Swiss francs per bottle – in those days that was about £23, at today’s exchange rate it would be £39 – anyway, occasionally one comes out for a test…

1996 Guy Castagnier, Bonnes-Mares
Medium, medium-plus ruby-red colour. The nose is quite mineral, edged with macerating dark fruits and the faintest hint of brett – at this level it’s quite nice. There is still a velvet texture to the (now) medium tannins, and despite its age there is still more than enough fruit extract to balance the acid-led mid-palate flavour fireworks. It’s an impressive burst of power that leads you, mouth watering, into a very good finish. Perhaps there’s another 4 or 5 years left for absolute maturity, but this is very drinkable today, very drinkable…
Rebuy – Yes

I usually found this wine to be a little ‘soft-focus’ versus (for instance) the Gambal version, but it was aways keenly priced. Recent bottlings have taken a significant upward route for pricing. The wine will have to have improved to warrant the extra outlay, but here at least, the 2005 is a greatly valued effort.

2005 Françoise et Denis Clair, St.Aubin 1er Murgers des Dents de Chien
The aromas start in a surprisingly floral/perfumed vein, slowly becoming more sedate with a faintly ripe yellow fruit and there are still hints of the almonds of it’s youth. Dense and ripe flavours that finish with a little agrumes. There’s plenty of fat and just enough acidity to balance. Certainly a very rich performance but very drinkable after a little aeration. I normally have in mind feminine adjectives with white wines, but there’s a builder’s muscle in here.
Rebuy – Yes

One of my favourite 97s is Rousseau’s Clos des Ruchottes grand cru, a wine that could come from any good vintage and showing none of the potential pifalls of this one. How good is the Clos de la Roche?

1997 Armand Rousseau, Clos de la Roche
Medium, medium-plus colour. From top to bottom this nose is impresses with quality dark red fruit, there is the faintest edge of something a bit looser – caramel and redcurrant – but overall this is super. In the mouth there is a silky density that drives rather too fast into the finish. Swirl it around over your tongue for longer and then the intensity builds, but with it comes some slightly bitter tannin. The finish holds much longer now but with a little of that bitterness. A bit of a monolith in the mid-palate, I’ll save some for tomorrow to see if it opens. Day two and the aromatics are more subdued though the palate is indeed a little more open. A good wine, even in the context of the vintage, but I’d still rather have the Ruchottes…
Rebuy – Maybe

2006 Tollot-Beaut, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Champs Chevery
Medium colour. Heavy floral notes that are accented with toffee mainly obscure a pure red fruit note – but occasionally it shines through. In the mouth it’s currently a bit disjointed, that said, all the pieces are pretty good – good volume, background tannins and tasty fruit that’s edged with licorice as it slips into the finish. Not a bit tight, but not showing well either. The last glass is reserved for day 2 and it’s far less the roller-coaster of the previous day. Still the ‘value’ wine of the T-B range.
Rebuy – Yes

As mentioned yesterday, this was the ‘stand-in’ for the oxidised Roulot, and if anything was even deeper coloured!

2001 Château de Puligny-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Folatières
A rather deep, initially worrysome colour. Fortunately the nose betrays nothing unmentionable though it’s a little heavy, indeed ponderous. In the mouth it’s wide, a little fat and certainly has lots of mid-palate flavour. There is just about enough acidity for balance. The fruit starts sweet but the finish is a little more sour. The finish has a decent length. Whilst this was a beauty when younger, if I had more in the cellar I’d be drinking them all this year.
Rebuy – No