2006 alesia san mateo county…



The boys of Noble Wine (who are occasional advertisers here) are some of the rare importers of Kevin Harvey’s wines from the US into Europe. Kevin is a very keen follower of things burgundian so I was very interested in what his personal rendition of pinot noir might be. I have this and a ‘Rhys’ (though it also says Rhys on the cork of this wine) which I’ll also open in the next days. I’m not really expecting ‘burgundy’, but given the costs of export/import, these cost me (even with a ‘good price’) something in the order of a cheaper grand cru.

2006 Alesia, San Mateo County
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose wears a heavy, musky pinot fruit and it’s edged first with a fine layer of vanilla then a slightly thicker layer of a faint pyrazine-type scent – at this intensity I find it interesting rather than off-putting. Swirl harder and a finer red cherry aroma attempts to escape the rim, time adds a little smokiness that mainly melds with the pyrazine to give a stem aroma. In the mouth this is faintly plush and very silky – you have to seriously chew to get a hint of tannic grain – in fact to find any tannin at all. There is a little vanilla cream that runs through the centre of the wine and into the finish, a long finish with a long-lasting mineral core. Occasionally I have the impression of a little warmth on swallowing but can’t be bothered to check the alcohol content – if it’s high it just means I must drink less! Whilst that finish is pleasantly mouth-watering, I feel this just needs a slight acid-lift to make me crave the next sip. I look to my normal benchmarks, but frankly I don’t have a burgundy village or cru that I can compare this to. Very tasty but I’d like it a little more refreshing.

Given that I paid a price for 2 bottles and so don’t know the individual prices it’s hard to ascribe a value. On an average base I overpaid for this one and underpaid for the ‘Rhys’ which will follow. At the average, and as nice as this wine is, I wouldn’t be rebuying. Actually the back label (the front, as you can see is very basic, very pretty but basic) doesn’t mention the alcohol content – I’m not sure if that’s legal in Europe, but I certainly don’t care!

Agree? Disagree? Anything you'd like to add?

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