The last of my quartet from 1986. I was surprised by the cleanliness and decent condition of the first three, can this really make 4 in a row? It seems so.
So what have I learned about the vintage from this small sample? There’s impact, there’s a weight of concentration and I expect that there was some very astringent tannin during the early years. Perhaps these wines are a little too monolithic, certainly there is no delicacy though the acidity is up to the job. All were drinkable and far from fading, and whilst the Clos de Vougeot will take the aromatic plaudits, this Bonnes-Mares is the most complete wine. I’d say that the wines are like 1992 with more concentration.
1986 Fougeray de Beauclair, Bonnes-Mares
The nose doesn’t offer the instant ‘to die for’ gratification of the Cotetidot 86 Clos de Vougeot, but it also far from disappointing; there’s a savoury, slightly saline impression that I assume has its roots in oak – although it’s a little tight, it’s also quite inviting. Given time the nose develops a more earthy depth. Silky, with grand-cru fat, this shows a little of that saline element in the flavour too, coupled to slightly oaky bitterness. The mid-palate just bursts forward with minerality and a selection of dried fruits; sweet currant and fig flavours stain your palate, eventually gaining a faint creaminess. The first of these 86s where I’m not delaying the next pour!
Rebuy – Yes