1993 louis latour vosne-romanée

By billn on June 21, 2010 #degustation

latour-vosne

I feel a 1993 phase coming on. I suppose I should have started with a bourgogne as here’s a villages and a 1er and grand cru (sorry they are all from Vosne…)

1993 Louis Latour, Vosne-Romanée
Medium mature, slightly mahogany colour. A little warmth of sweet undergrowth and a subliminal suggestion of Vosne spice, the last drops have a pretty acid red-cherry note. In the mouth this is sweetly fruited and has excellent balancing acidity. Medium concentrated with fully resolved tannin. The finish is freshly and understatedly sweet. More than ‘competent’ but not significantly more, there’s no wow factor. Tasty if a little simple…
Rebuy – Yes

2007 lignier fixin blanc

By billn on June 18, 2010 #degustation

Back from travelling and will likely have to suffer England playing football tonight – probably I need more than one bottle! I did however note a very loud cheer in the Irish bar last night when the second Mexican goal was scored! Whilst on the football theme I wonder how ‘der Kaiser’s’ critiques are coming along 😉

As an aperitif (short-lasting it must be said, the match hasn’t even started) I enjoyed this Fixin blanc – perhaps not a candidate for long search but it’s a rare appellation and was very tasty.

2007 L&A Lignier, Fixin Champs de Vosger
Medium yellow. The nose is of fresh, faintly spritzy, slightly unripe pineapple – which I find preferable to ripe pineapple! The acid is just a little forward but this has a nice kick of concentration and is very moreish in a kind of lemon sorbet vernacular. There’s good texture – the acidity ensuring that there is no obvious fat – and the merest hint of creaminess in the mid-palate. Not bad value and yum.
Rebuy – Yes

2008 roche de bellene meursault vieilles vignes

By billn on June 15, 2010 #degustation

My first wine at home from Nicolas Potel’s new stable…

2008 Maison Roche de Bellene, Meursault Vieilles-Vignes
Medium yellow. A faint toast quickly lifts to leave a wide and deep, but never heavy, curtain of ripe but fresh, sweet fruit. In the mouth there is perfect acidity and a sweetness that comes from perfectly ripe fruit. Wide but essentially linear flavours just add a hint of extra creamy width in the mid-palate – there’s no obvious fat here. Good length with still a hint of sweetness. A bottle that on a warm summer day empties very quickly indeed…
Rebuy – Yes

false bottles and good chocolate…

By billn on June 15, 2010 #the market

Actually the two are not connected.

Back from holidays (I might later add a few photos) and hopefully getting around to opening a bottle or two this week. A nice ‘find’ while away was ‘Hotel Chocolate’ and their 65% dark, 120 hour conch Saint Lucia chocolate – mmmmmmmm…
It finished a little dry but was mighty fine. There was even a ‘tasting note’ on the wrapper:

A quick and intense flavour burst slowly opens up to reveal multilayered notes of raisins, figs, oaked wine, tobacco, honey and grapefruit.

Ah, adjectivists, not structuralists then!

A good read from Slate is the latest installment on the falsification of bottles. I have the impression that it makes a meal of the early connection of one RMP to the (alleged!) fraudsters, but then it might not be such an exciting story if ‘omitted’.

luncheon bottles…

By billn on June 10, 2010 #degustation

I needed to ‘get my hand in’ after a few wine-less days. What better than a long chat with a bunch of wine-centric people(?)

My recollections, 24 hours later…

2002 Raveneaux, Chablis 1er Vaillons
A relatively deep gold though there’s nothing amiss on the nose; which is a little dense but like the skin of an onion keeps shedding a new layer of interest. The palate starts a little monolithic and misses some excitement, yet in the mid-palate a line of super-smooth acidity ushers you into a more interesting mid-palate and finish. I kept coming back to this and each time it was more engaging…
Rebuy – Yes

2004 JF Mugnier, Nuits 1er Clos de la Maréchale
The colour is starting to show some age. The aromas are a poster-child for the vintage, I can taste it too. Not for me.
Rebuy – No

2000 Armand Rousseau, Clos de la Roche
The aromas initially mix a little mineral and green – not so engaging. The palate is a world different; sweet, complex, fresh enough and like the Raveneaux, quite engaging. The nose very slowly improves, losing the strident edge and taking on a little sweetly smoky bacon-fat aromas.
Rebuy – Yes

Many thanks to the provider of the bottles…

moral bankrupcy and the wine trade

By billn on June 02, 2010 #the market

I note in my ‘holiday reading’ the following: There are sharks that take money for ‘investments’ and there are piranhas that disappear with en-primeur cash/orders. Now there is another kind of unpleasant individual – a sharp-suited barracuda perhaps – that tries even harder to suck the soul from wine:

The ‘short-selling’ of Chateau Lafite 2009 on Liv-ex has outraged some wine merchants, leaving others in the industry shrugging their shoulders.

The latest vintage of Lafite is being offered on the trading platform for £11,750 a case. The actual sale has gone through for £10,000.

The wine has not yet been released by the chateau.
Decanter, 1st June

Whilst these largely remain ‘Bordeaux things’ they cannot but chew at the edges of even the the most idealistic of producer-merchant-enthusiast relationships.

I see a bubble in the making; higher vineyard-land prices sustained only by higher ‘scores’ and ‘inventive’ marketing to ‘new markets’ – until a rainy vintage (or three) when the bills cannot be met – what then? Probably it will then be the critics’ fault for giving only 88pts….

Maybe in later life I will have to become a cheese aficionado to avoid such tripe….

jollies…

By billn on May 28, 2010 #travel

holiday

It’s time for a break.

Amongst other places, a few days on the Costa del Yorkshire awaits – I expect only tumbleweed around here for the next couple of weeks!

2008 des croix beaune grèves

By billn on May 27, 2010 #degustation

croix-beaune-greves-08

David Croix told me his 2008s were like monks – totally silent when opened in the morning before singing later in the day. I think I know what he means, only this monk seemed to be en grève…

2008 des Croix, Beaune 1er Les Grèves
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose shows a faint savoury edge but little else for at least an hour, swirl madly a there’s dark but tight core of fruit with faint oak seasoning. Given plenty of time (2+hours) the nose shows a little inky depth before sticking with a glossy dark red/black fruit personality, only the last drops have a pure redcurrant essence. The palate starts just a little tart, but within 30 minutes it’s opened a little addng both texture and sweetness of fruit – from the start it is intense but it’s a linear intensity. For the life of the bottle it never quite fulfils it’s potential – the acidity remains just-about in balance (sorbet-like), and despite its intensity the wine offers only a very linear experience – even on day two. Everything seems in place, but I don’t know how long we might have to wait to see a ‘wow’.
Rebuy – Maybe

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