Interesting!
In Switzerland, at least, and two months after they were offered, I see that none of these have sold out. And we can assume that some were offered in very small quantities…
It’s actually a great vintage chez Arlot – but are these the first winds – breezes – of market change?
From my usual Swiss merchant with, where offered, the price of their 2020s and 2019s are in brackets, also from the same merchant, the last two years. — indicates not offered:
Domaine Dugat-Py 2021
Monthelie Très Vieilles-Vignes 75cl — (89.00*, —) Swiss Francs
Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Avaux Vieilles-Vignes 75cl — (119.00, —)
Beaune 1er Cru Les Grèves Très Vieilles-Vignes 75cl 198.00 (198.00, —)
Pommard VV La Levrière 75cl — (149.00, 139.00)
Pommard Les Vaumuriens Hauts Très Vieilles-Vignes 75cl 169.00 (168.00, —)
Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles-Vignes 75cl 119.00 (119.00, 99.00)
Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée Coeur du Roy Vieilles-Vignes 75cl 159.00 (159.00, 149.00)
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles 75cl — (188.00, 149.00)
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Corbeaux 1er Cru 75cl 325.00 (315.00, 265.00)
Gevrey-Chambertin Champeaux 1er Cru 75cl 325.00 (355.00, 265.00)
Gevrey-Chambertin Petite Chapelle 1er Cru 75cl 369.00 (355.00, 265.00)
Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 75cl 558.00 (545.00, 475.00)
Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru 75cl 645.00 (599.00, —)
Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru 75cl 885.00 (850.00, —)
*As usual, these are delivered prices but without the Swiss purchase tax of 7.7%. Remarkable restraint don’t you think?…!
For those of you wondering about (most of) the Côte de Beaune wines, these are rented from the no-longer-existing Domaine Christopher Newman.
One of the most obviously depressing sights in Burgundy comes around right about now – February-April – when the yellow-orange, dead weeds and grass become visible. It’s a short but annoying window where you can see some very expensive plots of real estate in the raw, treated with herbicide. This view lasts only a few weeks before the offending material is ploughed back into the soil and halos of multiple growers are seemingly restored.
Recently, a small but important step was taken by the Organisme de Gestion of Volnay (ODG) – the winegrowers association – which voted to stop the use of herbicide in their Volnay Premiers Crus. An obvious ‘halfway house‘ of a decision but a welcome one that covers 110 hectares of vines.
This evolution of ‘Volnay specifications’ will now be included in the rules by the INAO, the new specifications could be in place as early as 2024. Such evolutions are rare but absolutely necessary; newly granted AOCs are held to much more rigorous standards than those that have been in place for the last 90 years – for instance also forbidding the use of machine harvesting.
From the press release: “Stopping herbicides seemed obvious to us,” explained Thomas Bouley, current President of ODG Volnay, “Because public and environmental health is at stake. We are fortunate to have an appellation of international renown, with high added value, which allows us to produce in a more ‘proper’ way. In such a favourable economic context (for our wines) our appellation must now, more than ever, be exemplary.“
Well, if it’s really the case, no one can claim surprise.
Outside of a modest few domaines’ modest few wines, the only real value in greater Burgundy – in recent vintages – has come from outside of the Côte d’Or. I have never bought more from Chablis, Mâconnais and Beaujolais – but at the same time, so little from the Côte d’Or – not in 30 years of purchasing…
But ‘Wolf!‘ has been cried for many years – let’s wait and see if it’s really the wolf at the door – shall we?! I still don’t know anybody who can buy Richebourg if they want some!
Domaine Chantal Lescure is/was a 19-hectare domaine to be found in the centre of Nuits St.Georges and it has been announced this week that it has been sold.
The domaine was founded in 1975 by Chantal Lescure and Xavier Machard de Gramont – you may recognise the latter name – Chantal was the aunt of Axelle Marchard de Gramont. Was? Yes, Chantal died 25 years ago.
Chantal was one of 7 siblings and her family came from an industrial background in Dijon, making their fortune by commercialising the pressure cooker in France. The family later diversified into vines. After Chantal died (1996) it was her sons Aymeric and Thibault Machard de Gramont who came to the domaine but it was said that the next generation had little interest in running the domaine, so put someone else in charge to manage it.
The holdings are impressive – 19 hectares – with 1er crus dotted along both the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune – there’s even a little Clos de Vougeot grand cru. The domaine was (later) also an early adopter of organic viticulture, having been certified organic in their vines since 2006 and has been run by François Chavériat.
But now there are new owners, and for a change, it is not a group whose main business is making handbags. The cost of the acquisition hasn’t been released – or yet rumoured as far as I can tell!
Jean-Philippe Girard and Eric Rousseau are the new team in charge. Of course, you will know Eric from his previous life at Domaine Armand Rousseau, but what of Jean-Philippe Girard? He’s from Dijon and has recently stepped down from his own company which he ran for 30 years – working on the technologies associated with wheat, flour and bread. He’s also (still) the head of a development agency that aims to establish of new companies in the community of Dijon.
It seems that François Chavériat will remain in his position. I wish them all success in this!
I may have missed the 2014s but here you can see the ‘progression’ of the prices (in Switzerland) for the 12s, 13s, 15s, 16s, 17s, 18s, 19s, and now the 2021s from the same Swiss merchant. The format here for the prices is simple: 2021 (2020, 2019, 2018, 2017, 2016, 2015, 2013, 2012) and — if not previously offered – and you can see that the offer is another much ‘shorter’ one this year…
DOMAINE FAIVELEY 2021 – En Primeur
PREMIERS CRUS
Pommard Rugiens 2021 75cl — (—, —, 82.00, 75.00, 86.00, —)
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Issarts 2021 75cl — (—, 89.00, —) Swiss Francs*
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 2021 75cl 109.00 (—, —, 85.00, 79.00, 84.00, 78.00, 72.50, 69.80)
Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges 2021 75cl — (129.00, 115.00, 105.00, 99.00, 115.00, 98.00, 98.00, 98.00)
Chambolle-Musigny Les Fuées 2021 75cl 139.00 (139.00, 139.00, 139.00, 125.00, 135.00, 128.00, 119.00, 119.00)
Chambolle-Musigny la Combe d’Orveau 2021 75cl 139.00 (139.00, 135.00, 135.00, 119.00, 132.00, 124.00, 119.00, 119.00)
Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 2021 — (—, 319.00, —)
GRAND CRUS
Corton Clos des Cortons 2021 75cl 199.00 (199.00, 169.00, 169.00, 149.00, 169.00, 149.00, 139.00, 139)
Corton Clos des Cortons 2021 150cl — (—, 343.00, 343.00, 303.00, 343.00, 303.00, 283.00, 283)
Corton Clos des Cortons 2021 300cl — (—, 736.00, 736.00, 656.00, 736.00, 656.00, —, —)
Echezeaux En Orveaux 2021 75cl 249.00 (239.00, 178.00, 169.00, —, 165.00, 149.00, —, —)
Mazis-Chambertin 2021 75cl 269.00 (269.00, 209.00, 198.00, 178.00, 198.00, 179.00, 167.00, 169)
Mazis-Chambertin 2021 150cl — (—, 423.00, 401.00, 361.00, 401.00, 363.00, —, —)
Mazis-Chambertin 2021 300cl — (—, 896.00, 852.00,776.00, 852.00, 776.00, —, —)
Grands Echezeaux 2021 75cl — (—, 229.00, 198.00, 188.00, 208.00, 198.00, 198.00, —)
Latricières-Chambertin 2021 75cl 279.00 (279.00, 198.00, 189.00, 165.00, 189.00, —)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze 2021 75cl 395.00 (395.00, 299.00, 285.00, 249.00, 299.00, 278.00, 249.00, 235)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze 2021 150cl — (—, 603.00, 575.00, 503.00, 603.00, 561.00, 503.00, 475)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze 2021 300cl — (—, 1,256.00, 1,200.00, 1,056.00, 1,256.00, 1,172.00, —, —)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Les Ouvrées Rodin 2021 75cl — (998.00, 895.00, 875.00, 698.00, 745.00, 659.00, 598.00, 598)
Corton Charlemagne 2021 75cl 249.00 (239.00, 198.00, 189.00, 189.00, 189.00, 169.00, 169.00, 159)
*There is 7.7% Tax to add in Switzerland, but then these are delivered prices
So many new offers in time for Christmas! This one hot off the presses…
Bruno Clavelier 2020:
With the previous year’s prices for the 2019s, 2018s, 2017s & 2016s (from the same merchant) in brackets. — indicates ‘not offered’:
Bourgogne Passetoutgrains 2020 75cl 24.50* (23.50, 22.50, 22.50, —) (Swiss francs)
Vosne-Romanée La Combe Brûlée 2020 75cl 105.00 (95.00, 90.00, 80.00, 84.00)
Vosne-Romanée Les Hautes Maizières 2020 75cl 105.00 (95.00, 90.00, 80.00, 84.00)
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Corbeaux 1er Cru 2020 75cl 160.00 (140.00, 135.00, 120.00, 123.00)
Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts 1er Cru 2020 75cl 180.00 (155.00, 150.00, 130.00, 137.00)
Vosne-Romanée Aux Brûlées 1er Cru 2020 75cl 180.00 (155.00, 150.00, 130.00, 137.00)
Chambolle-Musigny Combe d’Orveaux 1er Cru 2020 75cl 195.00 (170.00, 160.00, 140.00, 147.00)
Corton Le Rognet V.V. Grand Cru 2020 75cl 185.00 (165.00, 155.00, 135.00, 144.00)
*These prices are not delivered but do include the Swiss 7.7% purchase tax. Ever upwards!!!
Domaine Henri Boillot 2021 – en primeur
As always, from my local Swiss merchant who makes this offer about the same time each year.
I leave you with the 2020, 2019, 2018 and the 2017 pricing in brackets.
With anywhere between minus 90% and minus 50% volume for whites in 2021 – hence so many missing cuvées in this offer – you didn’t expect it to go down did you?
— = not offered
*Bourgogne Chardonnay 2021 75cl 33.00 (29.00, 29.00, 26.00, 23.00) Swiss Francs
St.Aubin 1er 2021 75cl — (55.00, —)
Meursault 2021 75cl 68.00 (—)
Meursault Les Gouttes d’Or 2021 75cl — (105.00, 95.00, —)
Meursault Clos Richemont 2021 75cl 149.00 (115.00, 105.00, —)
Meursault Les Genevrières 2021 75cl — (129.00, 125.00, 115.00, 108.00)
Meursault Les Perrières 2021 75cl — (138.99, —, 125.00, 115.00)
Puligny-Montrachet 2021 75cl 68.00 (58.00, 58.00, 55.00, 52.00)
Puligny-Montrachet Folatières 2021 75cl 149.00 (135.00, 125.00, —)
Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 2021 75cl — (135.00, 125.00, 115.00, 108.00)
Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrières 2021 75cl 149.00 (129.00, 115.00, 115.00, 108.00)
Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère 2021 75cl 149.00 (138.00, 128.00, 115.00, 108.00)
Corton Charlemagne 2021 75cl 248.00 (205.00, 188.00, 175.00, 168.00)
Montrachet 2021 75cl — (945.00, 895.00, 845.00, 795.00)
Volnay Les Chevrets 2021 75cl 89.00 (89.00, 89.00, 89.00, 89.00)
Volnay Les Caillerets 2021 75cl 99.00 (99.00, 99.00, 99.00, 99.00)
Clos de Vougeot 2021 75cl 208.00 (185.00, 179.00, 169.00, 158.00)
Echézeaux 2021 75cl 259.00 (239.00, 229.00, 229.00, —)
Latricières-Chambertin 2021 75cl 330.00 (—)
Bonnes-Mares 2021 75cl — (350.00, 330.00, 319.00, 298.00)
Chambertin 2021 75cl — (350.00, —, 319.00, 298.00)
*The price you see is ‘delivered’ but ex 7.7% Swiss purchase tax.
From my usual Swiss merchant. Prices for Groffier’s 2019s, 2018s, 2017s, 2016s and 2015s in the brackets, — indicates not offered…
Domaine Robert Groffier 2020
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Seuvrées 75cl 119.00 (115.00, 95.00, 89.00, 89.00, 79.00) *Swiss Francs
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Hauts Doix 75cl 209.00 (209.00, 205.00, 169.00, 159.00, 146.00)
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Sentiers 75cl 229.00 (229.00, 205.00, 199.00, 179.00, 158.00)
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 75cl —, (590.00, 399.00, 399.00, 349,00)
Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 75cl —, (590.00, 399.00, 399.00, 349.00)
When you don’t see the price of the last two, you almost have the impression that the wines are cheap 🙂
*As usual, these are delivered prices but without the Swiss purchase tax of 7.7%
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