I’ve had this for a couple of months, so it’s remiss of me not to have already posted it.
So here (the image, right, is also linked) are the key facts and figures of slightly greater Burgundy as released by the BIVB in July of this year.
I say slightly greater because there’s no Beaujolais included, which I consider being a key part Greater Burgundy – I hope you enjoy as much as I do – I’m always fascinated by such details and comparisons!
From my local Swiss merchant. The first price is for 2019, then in the brackets, from previous years for comparison, the second and third prices are for 2018 and 2017, — means ‘not offered…’
Vins blancs
Bourgogne Chardonnay 75cl 28.00 (—, —) *Swiss Francs
Meursault-Santenots 1er Cru 75cl 74.00 (—, —)
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET Les Combettes 1er Cru 75cl 89.00, (89.00, 89.00)
MEURSAULT Perrières 1er Cru 75cl 155.00, (149.00, 149.00)
CORTON CHARLEMAGNE 75cl 215.00, (229.00, —)
CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET 75cl 415.00, (—, —)
Vins rouges
BEAUNE Grèves 1er Cru 75cl 59.00, (59.00, —)
VOLNAY Santenots 1er Cru 75cl 79.00 (—, —)
VOLNAY Clos des Santenots 1er Cru 75cl 119.00, (118.00, 109.00)
CORTON Bressandes 75cl 139.00, (129.00, 125.00)
CLOS DE VOUGEOT 75cl 145.00, (135.00, 129.00)
CHAMBERTIN 75cl 399.00, (389.00, 389.00)
ECHEZEAUX 75cl 415.00, (399.00, 399.00)
MUSIGNY 75cl 598.00, (598.00, 598.00)
As always, these are delivered prices, but excluding the Swiss purchase tax of 7.7%. Generally, upwards and upwards – and that’s before the lack of 2020 and 2021s begin to exert their price effects…
On Tuesday I took 90 minutes out of my harvesting duties to check in on the joint press conference of the Hospices de Beaune and Sotheby’s.
You may recall that last year the 160th wine auction of the Hospices was cancelled at the very last moment. Those running the show has said for days that there was no concern about cancellation but there it was. The sale took place in even more restricted circumstances, later in December, the 13th. I privately heard that Christie’s were pretty unhappy about the whole thing as they had offered to guarantee that the whole thing took place with no issues but online. Perhaps it was a change in the dynamic of the relationship between Christie’s and the management of the Hospices because just 4 months later came the announcement of the tie-up with Sotheby’s. This is a 5-year contract.
That’s enough speculation from me, now for some of the interesting notes from this week’s press event:
Today, the 21st September 2021 is the ‘Auction Day minus 60!‘
For the 161st auction of the wines of the Hospices de Beaune, Sotheby’s have a new five-year contract following Hospices change from partnering with Christie’s.
Sotheby’s had $98 million in wine sales in 2020 and their first half of 2021 is trending higher – in the direction of 120 million for the year. This is also the year that Sotheby’s begin with french wine sales ie sales in France itself – they previously sold only in New York, London, Hong Kong and occasionally in Geneva – this press event is seemingly the announcement for that strategic move. A much more interesting statistic was that in 2014, Burgundy accounted for 26% of Sotheby’s wine sales – in 2020 this had increased to 50% by value!
And a few notes from Ludivine about the vintage 2021:
“The frost wasn’t the first real ‘act’ of the weather in 2021 – that was the heat at the end of March which brought 26-28°C in the vines. This was the cause of the early growth of the vines which exacerbated the effect of the frost at the start of April. This stopped any development of the vegetation for nearly 6 weeks. By the 19-20th of May we could properly see what buds had resisted the frost. The vintage condition waxed and waned between what was best for rot or what was best for oïdium! Fortunately, the flowering came in warm and dry conditions, almost too warm! Pouilly-Fuissé and Volnay-Santenots have been the first picked vineyards on the 17th… I’m destemming 100% – the skins can be fragile and oxidise fast so I’m using plenty of CO2 to protect the unfermented grapes and must. When to start the harvest is usually a compromise between, maturity, cleanliness and the weather – for a number of years these have been comfortable to very comfortable indicators – this year its clearly about the compromises! We are back to our roots!“
I don’t get to see these wines from Dugat-Py so often but my usual Swiss merchant seems to be widening his list of growers. Of course, they are expensive but really not that expensive, it seems, compared to those from Groffier! (Prices for Groffier’s 2017s from the same retailer in brackets)
Domaine Dugat-Py 2019
Gevrey-Chambertin VV 75cl 99.00* Swiss Francs
Pommard VV la Levrière 75cl 139.00
Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée Coeur du Roy VV 75cl 149.00
Gevrey-Chambertin Champeaux 1er Cru 75cl 265.00
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Corbeaux 1er Cru 75cl 265.00
Gevrey-Chambertin Petite Chapelle 1er Cru 75cl 265.00
Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 75cl 475.00
Domaine Robert Groffier 2019
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Seuvrées 75cl 115.00 (89.00) Swiss Francs
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Hauts Doix 75cl 209.00 (169.00)
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Sentiers 75cl 229.00 (199.00)
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 75cl 590.00 (399.00)
Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 75cl 590.00 (399.00)
*As usual, these are delivered prices but without the Swiss purchase tax of 7.7%
As always, from my local, Swiss merchant. I don’t find any older prices for comparison.
This is a very good, seemingly often overlooked, producer. I always love the Virondot – and you can’t buy it anywhere else! 🙂
Domaine Marc Morey 2019
Saint-Aubin Charmois 1er Cru 2019 75cl 48.00* (Swiss Francs)
Chassagne-Montrachet 2019 75cl 59.00
Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 1er Cru 2019 75cl 72.00
Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers 1er Cru 2019 75cl 74.00
Chassagne-Montrachet En Virondot 1er Cru 2019 37.5cl 47.00
Chassagne-Montrachet En Virondot 1er Cru 2019 75cl 88.00
Chassagne-Montrachet Caillerets 1er Cru 2019 75cl 92.00
*Prices delivered, but without the 7.7% Swiss purchase tax…
Let me know if you’re shocked at such unsubstantiated drivel in these pages or whether you’d like to see much more 🙂
I’ve been storing up the rumours and other ‘non-announced’ changes for some time, so why not let’s run through a few of them – I can only get in trouble for suggesting such heresies!
The highest category of unconfirmed rumour:
(Right: La Grande Rue and La Tâche.) I recently visited Domaine Lamarche in Vosne – and what a beautiful range of 2020s Nicole Lamarche has produced!
Only afterwards, discussing my visits with others, was I exposed to the rumours of an imminent €800 million payment by LVMH for the domaine – this seemed to be corroborated by a second source who, according to them, noted that LVMH is currently interviewing for senior winemaking position for the Côte d’Or – assuming they are not looking for the 3rd head of Lambrays in 3 years and that Domaine Eugenié is remaining stable in its 15th year!
But from sources much closer (geographically) to Vosne-Romanée, it seems that maybe the domaine will actually be splitting without the intervention of LVMH’s financial largesse. La Grande Rue to Nicole Lamarche and all the remaining vineyards to Nathalie Lamarche – note that the domaine has labelled all the wines as Nicole Lamarche since 2018. Nathalie doesn’t have an ‘agricultural structure‘ so those who suggest that they are in the know are placing those remaining vines/appellations with Louis-Michel Liger-Belair in a fermage deal – let’s see – but it would be very good timing for his shiny new cuverie!
There remains the subject of the reported €800 million LVMH acquisition – if such a thing exists – which others suggest it still does – but they are now pointing their fingers in the direction of a famously under-performing domaine in Gevrey-Chambertin. Of course, if such sums of cash are to be believed, then it would have to be Gevrey’s biggest owner of grand crus – no?
And the following are not really rumours – there are simply no press-releases.
1. Domaine Bernard Moreau
For me, a doyenne of Chassagne. This domaine has been run for a number of years by the brothers Alex and Benoit Moreau. The split between the two, apparently, has been coming for a long time but with Benoit well underway building his new winery, possibly ready for the upcoming harvest, I’m awaiting some kind of confirmation on the way forward…
2. Domaines Duc de Magenta & Vougeraie
The Duc de Magenta’s choice slice of Chassagne, their 4.57 hectare 1er Cru Morgeot Clos de la Chapelle (Monopole), has been leased to Domaine de la Vougeraie from this 2021 vintage. The Magenta estate was 12 hectares, I’ve not heard that any other parts are on the move. It will be virtually the only wine in Vougeraie’s line-up that’s not certified organic – but they are already underway to start this (3-year) certification process.
DOMAINE LOUIS JADOT 2019
As always, from my local, Swiss merchant. Maybe I missed it earlier this year but the offer seems later than usual. The 2018, 2017, 2016 and 2015 offer prices in the brackets to compare, and — means not offered)
LES REDS
Beaune Clos des Ursules Monopole 1er Cru 2019 75cl 59.00* (64.00, 59.00, 59.00, 55.00) (Swiss Francs)
Beaune Clos des Ursules Monopole 1er Cru 2019 150cl 123.00 (133.00, 123.00)
Corton Grèves Grand Cru 2019 75cl 85.00 (85.00, 79.50, 79.50, 79.00)
Corton Grèves Grand Cru 2019 150cl 175.00 (175.00, 164.00)
Corton Pougets Grand Cru 2019 75cl 85.00 (85.00, 79.50, 79.50, 79.00)
Corton Pougets Grand Cru 2019 150cl 175.00 (175.00, 164.00)
Chambolle-Musigny Fuées 1er Cru 2019 75cl 89.00 (89.00, 85.00)
Chambolle-Musigny Baudes 1er Cru 2019 75cl 89.00 (89.00, 85.00)
Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru 2019 75cl 149.00 (155.00, 149.00, 145.00, 138.00)
Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2019 75cl — (149.00, 139.00, 138.00, 128.00)
Echézeaux Grand Cru 2019 75cl — (209.00, 159.00)
Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru 2019 75cl 209.00 (209.00, —, 188.00, 169.00)
Clos Saint Denis Grand Cru 2019 75cl 288.00 (288.00, —, 269.00, 259.00)
Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2019 75cl 328.00 (328.00, —)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2019 75cl 349.00 (349.00, 339.00)
Musigny Grand Cru 2019 75cl 798.00 (798.00, 795.00)
LES BLANCS
Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er Cru 2019 75cl 85.00 (89.00, 89.00, 89.00, 88.00)
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2019 75cl 165.00 (158.00, 148.00, 139.50, 119.00)
Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2019 75cl 318.00 (298.00, 285.00)
Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles Grand Cru 2019 75cl 389.00 (376.00, 348.00)
Montrachet Grand Cru 2019 75cl 559.00 (549.00, —, 499.00, 428.00)
*Prices delivered, but without the 7.7% Swiss purchase tax…
Almost a softening here, certainly some restraint!
Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair 2019 EP/Pre-Arrivals
Prices arrived today from my Swiss merchant. When offered, the prices of the 2018, 2017, 2016 & 2015s (from the same time, previous years) are in brackets for comparison. Still no Beaujolais:
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 75 cl La Charmotte 75cl 55.00* (55.00, 52.00, 55.00, 49.50) (Swiss Francs)
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES Les Belles Croix 75cl 55.00
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 1er Les Saint-Georges 75cl 135.00 (125.00, 119.00, 118.00, 109.00)
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 1er Les Saint-Georges 150cl 285.00 (260.00, 248.00, 256.00, – )
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY Aux Beaux Bruns 75cl 75.00
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY Fouchères 75cl 75.00
VOSNE-ROMANEE Aux Réas 75cl 75.00 (75.00, 69.50, 76.00, 69.50)
CORTON CLOS DU ROI 75cl 159.00 (159.00, 159.00, 159.00, – )
CLOS DE VOUGEOT 75cl 165.00 (165.00, 159.00, 169.50, 158.00)
CHARMES-CHAMBERTIN 75cl 175.00 (175.00, 169.00, – , – )
RICHEBOURG 75cl 445.00 (425.00, 398.00, – , 395.00)
CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE 75cl not offered (189.00, 189.00, 198.00, – )
*As always, these wines are without the 7.7% Swiss purchase tax, but include the cost of delivery…
So, a mixed bag – despite a backdrop of lower yields in 2019 versus 2018 – most of the lower wines remain with consistent pricing. Those more iconic wines of the domaine – it’s no problem to add a little more, eh?
The waxing and waning of vineyard ownership – or rather the relative size of ownership – has always been the subject of external forces; times of higher demand, times of lower demand, times of disease or simply times of consistently poor weather. Burgundy has never been a stranger to those things…
Outwardly, and from this perspective, things seem little different today to what has happened in previous generations but dig deeper and I’d say that the current situation is different.
My current musings on this were partly prompted by the recently announced sale of the Christian Confuron estate to the Evenstad family of Domaine Serene, to add to their ownership of Domaine de la Crée in Santenay. Actually, I’d been aware of both the sale and the (undisclosed but ballpark) price of €40 million – for under 7 hectares but with grand and 1er cru appellations – for a few weeks after visiting a domaine that had bought grapes from this Confuron estate but was seemingly going to lose their grape contract this year due to the sale – but, hopefully, they will manage to come to some short-term accommodation on that front.
On the positive side for this Confuron acquisition, we have a business that is focused on wine – whether that wine comes from Oregon or Burgundy – we can all appreciate the synergy and, of course, there are domaines in Burgundy that have estates in Oregon too – so all is fair! On the negative side – and negative purely from my gut feeling – is the ever-growing concentration of vineyard land in the hands of a) buyers from outside of Burgundy and b) groups and individuals who are not primarily in the wine business. Some buyers still count wine as an important part of a portfolio of assets whilst others buy due to their ‘interest’ in wine but the essential issue today is the significant geographic change of ownership of the vineyards of Burgundy. Outside of the pre-revolutionary times of the French monarchy/aristocracy and ownership by the church – Burgundian vineyards have never seen such dwindling local ownership.
New ownership still has an important French dimension and at the most exclusive end of the vineyard scale, many hectares are being rolled into the portfolios of some of France’s richest individuals. And do continue to watch this space, a certain domaine in an important Côte de Nuits village has tongues wagging of an imminent €800 million transaction – you heard it here first 😉
Less transparent still, are the organisations that are buying up estates and parcels here and there and paying off the incumbent producers. These organisations have no winemaking so ‘donate’ the vines to important domaines in both the red and white villages of the Côte d’Or, guaranteeing themselves or their ‘club members’ the majority or all of that production – it’s hard to imagine many illustrious names being used as ‘toll manufacturing’ facilities but this is the effective result and you need not feel sorry for the domaines – they are being well recompensed, though don’t expect them to show you the wines when you visit.
Whilst I have uncomfortable feelings about the loss of local ownership of Burgundian vineyards, the inward investment that this has generated and the relative clarity of ownership that we see, clearly has many benefits. The reduction of local ownership of the vines is something that I instinctively feel to be a sub-optimal direction for the region but I feel significantly less positive about the lack of clarity surrounding the growth of the 1er and grand cru ownership and then toll-manufacturing approach – and just occasionally I feel the need to beat out a few words on my keyboard about it!
[Edit:] Posted today (30-June):
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