The Market

offer of the day – faiveley 2020…

By billn on November 12, 2021 #the market

I may have missed the 2014s but here you can see the ‘progression’ of the prices (in Switzerland) for the 12s, 13s, 15s, 16s, 17s, 18s, 19s and now the 2020s from the same Swiss merchant. The format here for the prices is simple: 2020 (2019, 2018, 2017, 2016, 2015, 2013, 2012) and — if not previously offered – and you can see that the offer is much ‘shorter’ this year…

DOMAINE FAIVELEY 2020 – En Primeur

PREMIERS CRUS
Pommard Rugiens 2020 75cl — (—, 82.00, 75.00, 86.00, —)
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Issarts 2020 75cl — (89.00, —) Swiss Francs*
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 2020 75cl — (—, 85.00, 79.00, 84.00, 78.00, 72.50, 69.80)
Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges 2020 75cl 129.00 (115.00, 105.00, 99.00, 115.00, 98.00, 98.00, 98.00)
Chambolle-Musigny Les Fuées 2020 75cl 139.00 (139.00, 139.00, 125.00, 135.00, 128.00, 119.00, 119.00)
Chambolle-Musigny la Combe d’Orveau 2020 75cl 139.00 (135.00, 135.00, 119.00, 132.00, 124.00, 119.00, 119.00)
Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 2020 — (319.00, —)

GRAND CRUS
Corton Clos des Cortons 2020 75cl 199.00 (169.00, 169.00, 149.00, 169.00, 149.00, 139.00, 139)
Corton Clos des Cortons 2020 150cl — (343.00, 343.00, 303.00, 343.00, 303.00, 283.00, 283)
Corton Clos des Cortons 2020 300cl — (736.00, 736.00, 656.00, 736.00, 656.00, —, —)
Echezeaux En Orveaux 2020 75cl 239.00 (178.00, 169.00, —, 165.00, 149.00, —, —)
Mazis-Chambertin 2020 75cl 269.00, (209.00, 198.00, 178.00, 198.00, 179.00, 167.00, 169)
Mazis-Chambertin 2020 150cl — (423.00, 401.00, 361.00, 401.00, 363.00, —, —)
Mazis-Chambertin 2020 300cl — (896.00, 852.00,776.00, 852.00, 776.00, —, —)
Grands Echezeaux 2020 75cl — (229.00, 198.00, 188.00, 208.00, 198.00, 198.00, —)
Latricières-Chambertin 2020 75cl 279.00 (198.00, 189.00, 165.00, 189.00, —)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze 2020 75cl 395.00 (299.00, 285.00, 249.00, 299.00, 278.00, 249.00, 235)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze 2020 150cl — (603.00, 575.00, 503.00, 603.00, 561.00, 503.00, 475)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze 2020 300cl — (1,256.00, 1,200.00, 1,056.00, 1,256.00, 1,172.00, —, —)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Les Ouvrées Rodin 2020 75cl 998.00 (895.00, 875.00, 698.00, 745.00, 659.00, 598.00, 598)

Corton Charlemagne 2020 75cl 239.00 (198.00, 189.00, 189.00, 189.00, 169.00, 169.00, 159)

*There is 7.7% Tax to add in Switzerland, but then these are delivered prices
Lots of old friends are missing from the offer this year – but in terms of the actual pricing, feel free to say ‘ouch!‘ – the prices of the grand crus continues their exploration of what is possible…

Fire! Fire! Fire! (prices…)

By billn on October 23, 2021 #the market#travels in burgundy 2021

Autumn fire in Maranges - the colour of Autumn
Fire in Maranges – the colour of Autumn, yesterday…

It was inevitable, I suppose, but the bare facts are:
2017 – a good volume of wine in both colours
2018 – another good volume – even more-so the whites
2019 – short in whites and less than average for reds too
2020 – okay for whites but short for reds again
2021 – a catastrophe in white and very short (on average) in reds too

I remember the first time I saw prices of €10k for barrels of Corton-Charlemagne and was shocked – well you can think more in the region of at least €40k today.

But the fanning of the fires in the 1er crus of Meursault and Puligny are to be expected – the 2021 yields often 10-25% of a normal year here – currently at least 30% higher bulk prices are being asked and people are still very much testing the elasticity of those prices. I think they will increase by a lot more when you take the example of Bourgogne (red!) Côte d’Or into consideration; last year it was under €1k for the barrel, this year because 2021 will be significantly short (though not as dramatically as in the whites!) the prices quickly hit €1.5k and now people are offering €2.2K – about €7.60 just for the juice without accounting for time, labour, bottles, labels, corks and capsules, wax if you must, distribution costs and local margins and so on. That’s how short the bulk market looks right now and there’s no rule to say it can’t go higher.

Obviously, the people making Bourgogne Côte d’Or with merchanted grapes/wine don’t have a cat in hell’s chance of (more than) doubling the price of their bottles – so some fingers may get burnt – I do remember one vintage where a major seller was losing money on every single bottle of Petit Chablis that they sold. Likewise, it’s unlikely that the (majority of) white 1er crus will be able to sustain 30-50% prices increases at their end customers – but this elasticity has yet to be fully tested. I do think that the price-elasticity of the grand crus will take this in their stride – certainly for the better-known producers.

We will be watching!

Burgundy 2021 – the facts and figures…

By billn on October 08, 2021 #the market

key facts and figures Burgundy 2021I’ve had this for a couple of months, so it’s remiss of me not to have already posted it.

So here (the image, right, is also linked) are the key facts and figures of slightly greater Burgundy as released by the BIVB in July of this year.

I say slightly greater because there’s no Beaujolais included, which I consider being a key part Greater Burgundy – I hope you enjoy as much as I do – I’m always fascinated by such details and comparisons!

offer of the day – Jacques Prieur 2019

By billn on October 01, 2021 #the market

From my local Swiss merchant. The first price is for 2019, then in the brackets, from previous years for comparison, the second and third prices are for 2018 and 2017, — means ‘not offered…’

Vins blancs
Bourgogne Chardonnay 75cl 28.00 (—, —) *Swiss Francs
Meursault-Santenots 1er Cru 75cl 74.00 (—, —)
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET Les Combettes 1er Cru 75cl 89.00, (89.00, 89.00)
MEURSAULT Perrières 1er Cru 75cl 155.00, (149.00, 149.00)
CORTON CHARLEMAGNE 75cl 215.00, (229.00, —)
CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET 75cl 415.00, (—, —)

Vins rouges
BEAUNE Grèves 1er Cru 75cl 59.00, (59.00, —)
VOLNAY Santenots 1er Cru 75cl 79.00 (—, —)
VOLNAY Clos des Santenots 1er Cru 75cl 119.00, (118.00, 109.00)
CORTON Bressandes 75cl 139.00, (129.00, 125.00)
CLOS DE VOUGEOT 75cl 145.00, (135.00, 129.00)
CHAMBERTIN 75cl 399.00, (389.00, 389.00)
ECHEZEAUX 75cl 415.00, (399.00, 399.00)
MUSIGNY 75cl 598.00, (598.00, 598.00)

As always, these are delivered prices, but excluding the Swiss purchase tax of 7.7%. Generally, upwards and upwards – and that’s before the lack of 2020 and 2021s begin to exert their price effects…

The Hospices de Beaune together with Sotheby’s

By billn on September 24, 2021 #the market#vintage 2021

Hospivces de Beaune & Sothebys 2021On Tuesday I took 90 minutes out of my harvesting duties to check in on the joint press conference of the Hospices de Beaune and Sotheby’s.

You may recall that last year the 160th wine auction of the Hospices was cancelled at the very last moment. Those running the show has said for days that there was no concern about cancellation but there it was. The sale took place in even more restricted circumstances, later in December, the 13th. I privately heard that Christie’s were pretty unhappy about the whole thing as they had offered to guarantee that the whole thing took place with no issues but online. Perhaps it was a change in the dynamic of the relationship between Christie’s and the management of the Hospices because just 4 months later came the announcement of the tie-up with Sotheby’s. This is a 5-year contract.

That’s enough speculation from me, now for some of the interesting notes from this week’s press event:

Today, the 21st September 2021 is the ‘Auction Day minus 60!‘

For the 161st auction of the wines of the Hospices de Beaune, Sotheby’s have a new five-year contract following Hospices change from partnering with Christie’s.

Sotheby’s had $98 million in wine sales in 2020 and their first half of 2021 is trending higher – in the direction of 120 million for the year. This is also the year that Sotheby’s begin with french wine sales ie sales in France itself – they previously sold only in New York, London, Hong Kong and occasionally in Geneva – this press event is seemingly the announcement for that strategic move. A much more interesting statistic was that in 2014, Burgundy accounted for 26% of Sotheby’s wine sales – in 2020 this had increased to 50% by value!

And a few notes from Ludivine about the vintage 2021:

“The frost wasn’t the first real ‘act’ of the weather in 2021 – that was the heat at the end of March which brought 26-28°C in the vines. This was the cause of the early growth of the vines which exacerbated the effect of the frost at the start of April. This stopped any development of the vegetation for nearly 6 weeks. By the 19-20th of May we could properly see what buds had resisted the frost. The vintage condition waxed and waned between what was best for rot or what was best for oïdium! Fortunately, the flowering came in warm and dry conditions, almost too warm! Pouilly-Fuissé and Volnay-Santenots have been the first picked vineyards on the 17th… I’m destemming 100% – the skins can be fragile and oxidise fast so I’m using plenty of CO2 to protect the unfermented grapes and must. When to start the harvest is usually a compromise between, maturity, cleanliness and the weather – for a number of years these have been comfortable to very comfortable indicators – this year its clearly about the compromises! We are back to our roots!“

offers of the day – Dugat-Py 2019 & Robert Groffier 2019

By billn on August 13, 2021 #the market

I don’t get to see these wines from Dugat-Py so often but my usual Swiss merchant seems to be widening his list of growers. Of course, they are expensive but really not that expensive, it seems, compared to those from Groffier! (Prices for Groffier’s 2017s from the same retailer in brackets)

Domaine Dugat-Py 2019
Gevrey-Chambertin VV 75cl 99.00* Swiss Francs
Pommard VV la Levrière 75cl 139.00
Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée Coeur du Roy VV 75cl 149.00
Gevrey-Chambertin Champeaux 1er Cru 75cl 265.00
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Corbeaux 1er Cru 75cl 265.00
Gevrey-Chambertin Petite Chapelle 1er Cru 75cl 265.00
Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 75cl 475.00

Domaine Robert Groffier 2019
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Seuvrées 75cl 115.00 (89.00) Swiss Francs
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Hauts Doix 75cl 209.00 (169.00)
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Sentiers 75cl 229.00 (199.00)
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 75cl 590.00 (399.00)
Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 75cl 590.00 (399.00)

*As usual, these are delivered prices but without the Swiss purchase tax of 7.7%

offer of the day – marc morey 2019

By billn on August 06, 2021 #the market

As always, from my local, Swiss merchant. I don’t find any older prices for comparison.

This is a very good, seemingly often overlooked, producer. I always love the Virondot – and you can’t buy it anywhere else! 🙂

Domaine Marc Morey 2019

Saint-Aubin Charmois 1er Cru 2019 75cl 48.00* (Swiss Francs)
Chassagne-Montrachet 2019 75cl 59.00
Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 1er Cru 2019 75cl 72.00
Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers 1er Cru 2019 75cl 74.00
Chassagne-Montrachet En Virondot 1er Cru 2019 37.5cl 47.00
Chassagne-Montrachet En Virondot 1er Cru 2019 75cl 88.00
Chassagne-Montrachet Caillerets 1er Cru 2019 75cl 92.00

*Prices delivered, but without the 7.7% Swiss purchase tax…

Well, it was too quiet today!

By billn on July 28, 2021 #the market#vines for sale

Let me know if you’re shocked at such unsubstantiated drivel in these pages or whether you’d like to see much more 🙂

I’ve been storing up the rumours and other ‘non-announced’ changes for some time, so why not let’s run through a few of them – I can only get in trouble for suggesting such heresies!

The highest category of unconfirmed rumour:
La Grande Rue & La Tâche(Right: La Grande Rue and La Tâche.) I recently visited Domaine Lamarche in Vosne – and what a beautiful range of 2020s Nicole Lamarche has produced!

Only afterwards, discussing my visits with others, was I exposed to the rumours of an imminent €800 million payment by LVMH for the domaine – this seemed to be corroborated by a second source who, according to them, noted that LVMH is currently interviewing for senior winemaking position for the Côte d’Or – assuming they are not looking for the 3rd head of Lambrays in 3 years and that Domaine Eugenié is remaining stable in its 15th year!

But from sources much closer (geographically) to Vosne-Romanée, it seems that maybe the domaine will actually be splitting without the intervention of LVMH’s financial largesse. La Grande Rue to Nicole Lamarche and all the remaining vineyards to Nathalie Lamarche – note that the domaine has labelled all the wines as Nicole Lamarche since 2018. Nathalie doesn’t have an ‘agricultural structure‘ so those who suggest that they are in the know are placing those remaining vines/appellations with Louis-Michel Liger-Belair in a fermage deal – let’s see – but it would be very good timing for his shiny new cuverie!

There remains the subject of the reported €800 million LVMH acquisition – if such a thing exists – which others suggest it still does – but they are now pointing their fingers in the direction of a famously under-performing domaine in Gevrey-Chambertin. Of course, if such sums of cash are to be believed, then it would have to be Gevrey’s biggest owner of grand crus – no?

And the following are not really rumours – there are simply no press-releases.

1. Domaine Bernard Moreau
For me, a doyenne of Chassagne. This domaine has been run for a number of years by the brothers Alex and Benoit Moreau. The split between the two, apparently, has been coming for a long time but with Benoit well underway building his new winery, possibly ready for the upcoming harvest, I’m awaiting some kind of confirmation on the way forward…

2. Domaines Duc de Magenta & Vougeraie
The Duc de Magenta’s choice slice of Chassagne, their 4.57 hectare 1er Cru Morgeot Clos de la Chapelle (Monopole), has been leased to Domaine de la Vougeraie from this 2021 vintage. The Magenta estate was 12 hectares, I’ve not heard that any other parts are on the move. It will be virtually the only wine in Vougeraie’s line-up that’s not certified organic – but they are already underway to start this (3-year) certification process.

offer of the day – louis jadot 2019

By billn on July 13, 2021 #the market

DOMAINE LOUIS JADOT 2019

As always, from my local, Swiss merchant. Maybe I missed it earlier this year but the offer seems later than usual. The 2018, 2017, 2016 and 2015 offer prices in the brackets to compare, and — means not offered)

LES REDS
Beaune Clos des Ursules Monopole 1er Cru 2019 75cl 59.00* (64.00, 59.00, 59.00, 55.00) (Swiss Francs)
Beaune Clos des Ursules Monopole 1er Cru 2019 150cl 123.00 (133.00, 123.00)

Corton Grèves Grand Cru 2019 75cl 85.00 (85.00, 79.50, 79.50, 79.00)
Corton Grèves Grand Cru 2019 150cl 175.00 (175.00, 164.00)
Corton Pougets Grand Cru 2019 75cl 85.00 (85.00, 79.50, 79.50, 79.00)
Corton Pougets Grand Cru 2019 150cl 175.00 (175.00, 164.00)

Chambolle-Musigny Fuées 1er Cru 2019 75cl 89.00 (89.00, 85.00)
Chambolle-Musigny Baudes 1er Cru 2019 75cl 89.00 (89.00, 85.00)

Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru 2019 75cl 149.00 (155.00, 149.00, 145.00, 138.00)

Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2019 75cl — (149.00, 139.00, 138.00, 128.00)
Echézeaux Grand Cru 2019 75cl — (209.00, 159.00)

Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru 2019 75cl 209.00 (209.00, —, 188.00, 169.00)
Clos Saint Denis Grand Cru 2019 75cl 288.00 (288.00, —, 269.00, 259.00)
Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2019 75cl 328.00 (328.00, —)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2019 75cl 349.00 (349.00, 339.00)
Musigny Grand Cru 2019 75cl 798.00 (798.00, 795.00)

LES BLANCS
Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er Cru 2019 75cl 85.00 (89.00, 89.00, 89.00, 88.00)
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2019 75cl 165.00 (158.00, 148.00, 139.50, 119.00)
Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2019 75cl 318.00 (298.00, 285.00)
Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles Grand Cru 2019 75cl 389.00 (376.00, 348.00)
Montrachet Grand Cru 2019 75cl 559.00 (549.00, —, 499.00, 428.00)

*Prices delivered, but without the 7.7% Swiss purchase tax…
Almost a softening here, certainly some restraint!

Burgundy Report

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