I’m amazed by the transformation that 12 months in bottle has achieved. Last tasted, this was a tannic brute with an apparently modest finish but tons of potential (read: fireworks). Today its rather smooth, still concentrated and the finish is no-longer overwhelmed by what went before…

2005 Potel-Aviron, Morgon Côte du Py VV
A broodingly dark colour. The nose is slightly alcoholic, mildly meaty and creamily black fruited – almost like burgundy, but not quite. Very smooth and concentrated – I’m impressed how it pushes from the mid-palate into the finish – without fatigue. Again the fruit is black cherry shaded. Drinkable now with much more to come, and half the price of a growing number of inferior ’boutique’ bourgogne rouges.
Rebuy – Yes

2005 d’Ardhuy, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Chaumes
Medium cherry-red. You are greeted by wide, concentrated and bright nose, faintly alcoholic with red and black fruit and a gradually developing creamy background – perhaps a hint of green pepper is the only clue to ‘vosne’. Lovely texture and concentration, the tannins are completely enveloped by the ripe fruit, but enough freshness remains. A slow diminuendo of a finish rolling on with the acidity. At the right price, this is an easy rebuy.
Rebuy – Yes

From the outset, this wine didn’t really have a lot going for it; a critically unloved vintage for whites and the éleveur a bulk supplier to French supermarkets – lastly the ever-present shadow of p.ox. On the other hand, the label of a wine from the Hospices and I picked it up very cheap (obviously miss-priced) in a supermarket about 3 years ago – but even at that price, I only bought one!

1998 Hospices de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne
Cuvée François de Salins, Maison Paul Reitz. The colour is already a little concerning – a deep, burnished golden – fortunately the aromas have only the barest suggestion of anything oxidative, mainly showcasing a deep core of mature fruit edged with a trace of toffee. The palate is balanced, showing a waxy-smooth texture and a very nice length, redolent of the toffee on the nose. I think this is ready right now and will only decline from here. Very enjoyable – tinged with buyer’s regret as I only bought one!
Rebuy – Yes

Continuing the Remmoissenet theme – only an 05 Gevrey still waits in the cellar for the corkscrew:
2005 Remoissenet, Vosne-Romanée
From bought grapes. Deeper in colour than yesterday’s Beaune. The nose starts a little diffuse and coarse – seems affected by CO2 – 10 minutes brings cohesion, deep spicy fruit and a trace of smoky coffee – actually it keeps getting better and better. Very nice. The palate starts very grainy – dissolved gas for sure. With 30 minutes of air you get much friendlier texture, slightly forward acidity but an impressive width as the flavour flows into a good finish. Versus the Beaune you miss a little tension and gras – this is also more expensive; a) your paying more for the name and b) it’s more expensive than the same bottling from e.g. Bouchard Père. It’s good and I enjoyed it, but it doesn’t show the same level of value.
Rebuy – Maybe

2005 Remoissenet, Beaune 1er Marconnets
A domaine wine here: A hint of sweetness, a dense soft-red fruit and an underscore of minerality on the compact but giving nose – slowly opens in the glass. Poise, concentration and a very nice kick in the mid-palate are the first impressions. Slowly you pick up on the velvety tannin and the persistence of the finish. Balanced, some fat and some of the coiled-spring energy of the vintage. This is (versus other 05’s) quite well priced. I think I shall buy a few more…
Rebuy – Yes