From the outset, this wine didn’t really have a lot going for it; a critically unloved vintage for whites and the éleveur a bulk supplier to French supermarkets – lastly the ever-present shadow of p.ox. On the other hand, the label of a wine from the Hospices and I picked it up very cheap (obviously miss-priced) in a supermarket about 3 years ago – but even at that price, I only bought one!

1998 Hospices de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne
Cuvée François de Salins, Maison Paul Reitz. The colour is already a little concerning – a deep, burnished golden – fortunately the aromas have only the barest suggestion of anything oxidative, mainly showcasing a deep core of mature fruit edged with a trace of toffee. The palate is balanced, showing a waxy-smooth texture and a very nice length, redolent of the toffee on the nose. I think this is ready right now and will only decline from here. Very enjoyable – tinged with buyer’s regret as I only bought one!
Rebuy – Yes