Tasted in Volnay with Sarah and Guillaume Glantenay (and friend), 17 November 2020.
Of course, it was a vintage complicated by the dryness – really with no rain in the summer. Our harvest began started 17 August. There was more rain in Chambolle than in Volnay – but the difference in the end – for the grapes – was minimal. I was happy with the decision to harvest early and it’s the first time that we finished all the reds before we started with the whites. I’m a fan of finesse and fruit not lots of sugar and we still had one of 13.9° but I’m happy. From June onwards I though we would have a big harvest but the grapes shrunk and shrunk – there wasn’t a lot of juice.
“Some of the challenges were the same – the heat and the dry for example. The concentration is clearly more in the 20s but we have plenty in 19 too. Unfortunately we have a lot less in 2019; 60% less white and about 40% – it depends on the parcel – less red. We’re not planning to bottle before February or March but the wines are already showing well.”
Darker-fruited wines of impact, of clarity and with plenty of concentration. I could say that, practically, every vintage. Such a consistently fine producer…
1.8 hectares worth from 9 different parcels – all below the 1er crus, 15-80 years old vines… The 2nd vintage where separated all the vines over 60 years old to the following cuvée.
A nice silky width of aroma. That’s got a lovely start – silky, some direction. Melting over the palate – a faint edge of bitters, long finishing. Concentration but freshness too. Fine villages.
2019 Volnay Vieilles-Vignes
Grapes from 5 parcels included in this wine.
Like the last, plenty of colour. A nose that’s a little narrower but with a denser red fruit that wants to open out. Very fine tannin again – silky. More intensity to the flavour here – always bubbling with mouth-watering flavour. Long and faintly spiced – that’s a lovely finish!
Just half a hectare but ‘good old vines.’
A nose to dive into – lovely darker fruit but of freshness. More mouth-filling – this has a nice presence in the mouth – airy but with waves of excellent flavour. A faint touch of oak today but just as part of the overall flavour palette. Long again, almost seductive for Pommard…
Early harvesting area in the centre of Volnay – not much depth of soil and some drying of the grapes here in the last two vintages.
Yes! Such a perfume, floral, fresh and airy – yes! A little extra depth to the flavour here – wide over the palate too. That’s a top wine in 2019 – already super-delicious too!
2019 Volnay 1er Santenots
0.4 hectares from Dessous
Redder fruit – more fruit than flowers from this wine. A fine frame of freshness, the core more reserved, no grain but still with tannin. Long, stony finishing – cherry stones – to wait longer for it.
2019 Volnay 1er Les Brouillards
Nicely open with fine small red fruits. Cool fruit is the impression, growing wider over the palate, lovely depth here – a very elegant Brouillards. Long and delicious the tannin really only showing texturally in the finish…
2019 Pommard 1er Les Combes Dessus
First vintage for this was 2015. Deep, almost black soil in places.
Darker fruit on the nose – a density here that’s not yet fully open. In the mouth, impact from the concentration but framed with a freshness. Wide finishing, so tasty here, slowly mouth-watering and long – great finishing!
2019 Pommard 1er Rugiens Hautes
A width of aroma but more compact in terms of depth, only slowly showing some extra floral accents. Fresh and incisive in its attack – slowly covering all the palate with both depth and a little richness of flavour – but no fat. There’s a generosity in this finishing flavour – very tasty…
We harvested after the Côte de Beaune but we are still one of the first – 3 different parcels
More colour. Denser, darker fruit – fine purity tough. Structurally a little different but again texturally fine – just a suggestion of grain in the middle. Width, a breadth of flavour, but super balance – not quite yet finesse but that will come and there’s certainly a nice balance.
2019 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Feuselottes
Two barrels worth per year – first vintage was 2017.
A little less colour. The nose is guarded but also has an understated elegance of fruit and hints of flowers. An extra depth of texture – of generosity – but again not fat. Mouth-filling, with modest, but plenty of, energy. The depth of finishing flavour is completely super before fading deliciously – top finishing!