Tasted in Cheilly-Les-Maranges with Elodie Roy, 29 October 2020.
Domaine Elodie Roy
1B rue du Glacis
71150 Cheilly-Les-Maranges
Tel: +33 6 87 16 27 32
More reports for Domaine Elodie Roy
Elodie on her 2019s:
“2019 is my second vintage. Harvesting took place from 18 September. A very warm vintage. I’d had a little frost in the vintage and of course, the heatwave. Some grilled grapes accounted for small losses, after the trie of dry grapes the quality was super, really super, with great acidity despite quite high sugars – this combination has worked out well. I think the quality is higher in 19 vs 18, largely down to the finer acidity. All my wines were bottled 16 October.”
Elodie is exploiting 10 hectares of vines; “But it’s only about one-third that I keep and bottle under my own label at this time. My parents had always sold to the passing trade, I go more through the trade routes. As for the current market, I don’t work much with restaurants but the cavistes have been busy!”
The wines…
A very good range from Elodie – but the Gravières is clearly the star of her 2019 line-up.
The Regionals of both colours use Nomacorc sugar cane seals. The Maranges red will be bottled in a blend of Nomacorc and DIAM, the Santenay with cork – onwards, there will be a number of tests running…
2019 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune
3.5 hectares, mainly around Cheilly-les-Maranges. All manually harvested, 50% destemmed. All stainless elevage.
A really bright width of red fruit, slightly cushioned, suggesting floral – not overtly wc in style. Wide, growing in volume in the mouth, a little rigour to the structural flavour in the middle and finish – just give this a little extra time to soften – maybe 18-24 months. Long and tasty finishing.
2019 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
1.2 ha of old vines from 1965-66 with deeper soils. Here some barrel elevage and a little more extraction
Here a finer, more direct, berry fruit. Ooh, that’s much finer in terms of shape and structure – lovely mouth-watering flavour. Modestly tannic with virtually no grain, but a little drag to the texture. That’s rather delicious and completely excellent!
2019 Maranges La Rue des Pierres
Elodie has 3 ha in different Maranges lieu-dits, this is the cuvée of that lieu-dit – ‘I like working with the lieu-dits as I don’t have any 1ers’
The first nose is a little more discreet – slowly growing becoming more floral, still an elegant style. More intense, more direct and also a little more structural. Lovely intensity and mouth-watering flavour – I love that tangy finish.
Towards the north of gravières toward Clos des Tavannes, very little soil here – 10-15 cm – ‘planted 1952-53, no replacements, so that’s the real age.’ Vines between the windmill and the border with Chassagne that didn’t suffer from the dryness this year.
A fine and elegant nose – vibrant clarity of fruit in the middle. There is structure but here it is much more sophisticated, indeed almost silky. The finish has an extra purity of fruit. That’s a very fine Santenay indeed – bravo!
To compare:
2018 Santenay 1er Les Gravières
4 September harvest in 2018 – ‘a nice harvest and always millerandes here.’ All destemmed in this vintage. Now 1 year in bottle.
Another nose of elegant fruit and freshness, wide, not so deep but an attractive invitation. More intense, more depth of flavour, less approachable than the 19 today but with a fine width of finishing flavour – and really intense here. A super wine but the 19 is all the more sophisticated…
The whites
There are three parcels in the Hautes Côtes and one in Maranges:
2019 Bourgogne Aligoté Vieilles-Vignes
From 1937-38, north-facing, planted by grandfather – ‘yes they really are like trees! 12.6° natural – we used to be happy with 10°.’ Currently a small cuvée here.
A forward, rather wide nose almost a little almond blossom. Sits nicely on the palate, fresh, clean lines, a little mineral and saline and really quite long. It’s currently showing a slightly metallic accent to the flavour but tasty wine all the same…
2019 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune Blanc
0.25 ha – so much less than the red – two parcels here.
A bigger nose of freshness and creamy citrus. Round, supple, slightly tannic. The fruit is sweet, a suggestion of the exotic and more than a suggestion of barrel notes. Ample, mouth-watering, but a little oaky at the moment. Wait a year, or a little more for that to fade.
2019 Maranges En Buliet Blanc
A single parcel in white. Planted in 2003, the youngest vines of the domaine, also not an easy year for new plantings so it’s been a big work re-planting the more troubled vines.
A more compact nose, serious and mineral at the base. This is very mineral, quite concentrated and a little rich, melting flavour over the palate. A rigour to the minerality. There’s oak here (actually 50% new) but to my palate, it shows less than the first wine. I’d definitely wait a while for this one, though.
Again, to compare:
2018 Maranges Blanc
The same lieu-dit as the previous wine but it wasn’t labelled with that in the first vintage. ‘I was more stressed with the whites than the reds in my first vintage.’
Lots of effusive freshness with a slightly savoury impression, that could be a little reduction. Lovely balance to the shape/structure and flavour. I like the leading edge of flavour though it’s supported by quite some creamy oak today. Just now the palate is very attractive, the nose still needs some time.