Tasted in Rully with Marie Jacqueson, 16 November 2020.
P. & M. Jacqueson
12 Rue Saint Laurent
Tel: +33 3 85 43 26 05
My first visit to this domaine – I’ve lost count of the number of tasty wines I’ve enjoyed from here, so:
It was Marie Jacqueson’s grandfather who created this domaine in 1946. “I’m here since 2007,” says Marie “And my brother joined too in 2015. Our father comes by most days but has retired. Our grandfather started with some personal vines from his parents and then decided to make some wider planting as there was so very little in Rully at this time – 60 vignerons left for the first world war and only about three of them returned. So our grandfather, with 5 or 6 other vignerons from Rully, began their production, limiting the rendement, and started on the road to more recognition for the wines.”
About 30% of the domaine’s production is exported from France and then a mix of private clients and restaurants account for the balance.
Marie on 2019:
“This vintage was complicated by frost in the spring, and then followed the dryness. The quality and cleanliness were excellent, richness but with acidity too – but it’s only half a harvest – so that’s a bit of a trauma!”
A nice introduction to the production of this domaine. Many excellent wines – and not a bit facile – you will receive extra reward if you have some patience.
All the whites and the base reds – for 5 years now – are with DIAM. It’s cork from 1er Cru reds:
Vines planted in 1937, part of the domaine since 2002. Bottled in July after 10 months elevage – all in barrel but none new.
A width of slightly mineral aroma. Supple, slowly mouth-watering, layered, mobile over the palate – young wine that you should have a little patience with to lessen the form of the structure, but easy over the palate and very wide finishing – that’s a lovely finish!
2019 Rully Blanc
A blend of 2 parcels with 20% new oak and 1-year elevage
The nose here is much higher toned. A lightness of touch then beautifully silky. The palate has width and a nicely incisive and pure style. Enough energy and a more mineral finishing line to the flavour. A touch of the tactile tannin of 2019 in the finish – a shade of oak showing here too, perhaps. This will be excellent villages.
2019 Rully 1er La Pucelles
Limestone with some clay in the mix, planted in 1992.
A smaller but still airy nose. More insistent concentration here. Decent width to this flavour too. The tannin framing the middle flavours. Stronger finishing, slightly metallic last flavours.
Planted in 1950 by Marie’s grandfather.
Hmm, a little mineral, also a little citrus but more-so floral. That’s just a little more depth of comfort to the texture. Supple, mobile, a little extra complexity and energy. Really the flavour melts from your gums here – that’s super. A baby, but super. Such a sustained finish… Bravo.
2019 Rully Chaponnières
A deep, punchy, ripe nose. The palate is wide and more temptingly tasty than the nose at first suggests. Some middle tannin, but virtually no grain here. Lovely dark cherry finishing flavour – again have a little patience, but there is plenty of wine here…
2019 Rully 1er Clous
A finer – less forward darker-red fruit on this nose. Hmm, that’s got a more impressive structure – a framework – open flavour, a certain purity, the oak never bothersome.
2019 Rully 1er Preaux
Just below the Clous and both planted at the start of the 1960s
Similarly fine, perhaps darker-fruited, but again a nose that’s rather timid today. Extra width, there’s structure but with less overt shape than the Clous. Really mouth-watering dark fruit. That’s very delicious finishing and perhaps the most accessible of all these so far today…
2019 Mercurey 1er Les Veully
The most cushioned nose of these, darkly fruited. Very fresh and mobile over the palate. The tannin brings a faint frame of dryness but there’s no grain – it will be gone in 12 months. The dark fruit has a certain luxury to it despite showing nothing rich nor overtly ripe. The dark fruit holding on tenaciously in the finish – almost inky. This will be super – give it 2 years or more…
2019 Mercurey 1er Champ Martin
Plain south facing.
A faint floral floats over the darker fruit. Fuller, but fresh and energetic – there’s no fat here despite a richness of flavour. Concentrated, alive, wine. This is excellent but again is a wine for showing some patience. Faint bitters holding on in this very long finish – well done!