Tasted in Santenay with Anne-Marie & Jean-Marc Vincent, 27 October 2020.
Domaine Anne-Marie & Jean-Marc Vincent
3 Rue Sainte-Agathe
Tel: +33 3 80 20 67 37
More reports for Domaine Anne-Marie & Jean-Marc Vincent.
Jean-Marc on 2020:
“No frost but a lot of dryness. A vigneron’s vintage in both colours – like in 2019. I think it’s the greatest I’ve done – it’s very early of course but we actually finished in September as I did a later aligoté harvest. Actually a very Burgundian vintage I think.”
Jean-Marc on 2019:
“Practically everything is still in barrel as there’s 18 months of elevage to complete here. 30 hl/ha for the whites, more like 25 for the reds, principally with the frost to blame. Vinifications were without sulfur, just a small amount added in the last weeks. Tension and depth, it’s a good vintage, we haven’t had a bad vintage for a few years – but the lower rendements have aided that and not fatigued the vines.”
It’s a virtuous circle here at JMV – the wines have always been good but JM says that the quality increases each year because he gets a better price and can reduce the yields a little. Well, the quality has peaked in 2019 – a mix of fine and great whites plus many great reds – bravo the team here!
2019 Bourgogne Chardonnay
Vines in commune of Chassagne
A deep and compact nose – fresh, ripe citrus. Big, a wave of fresh but ripe flavour falling over the tongue. Faintly textured in the finish. Tasty!
2019 Montagny 1er Cru
2 climats blended. ‘I construct a white like I construct a red.’
Deeply aromatic but with a citrus freshness – that’s a super nose. Hmm, intense, mobile, growing in shape, that’s a fine and big finish. Excellent wine!
2019 Santenay Les Potets Blanc
Vines near the casino.
Ooh – that’s nice, a faint texture from oak but a sweetly attractive nose here that also has fine clarity. Energy, bubbling freshness and intensity. Strong finishing width with the intensity of a lemon-lime fruit – excellent again.
2019 Santenay Vignes Dense
14k vines per hectare
A hint of aroma then very calm – it’s rather compact here. Hmm – big in the mouth, growing in intensity, tension. That’s a super wine!
80 year-old vines, always small grapes always great quality, same quality as my last wines, just different
Hmm (again) – smooth but ripely citrus-fruited. That’s so good – an attack of flavour then a fine texture is noted, then the growing width and intensity is noted. Long and faintly textural to the end. Yes!
Narrower but a deeper almost vibrant lem/minerality. Lots of energy in the mouth – really mouth-filling too. Salivating almost juicy finishing, long. Great.
Marne with lots of limestone more a Chablis geology-style though a different epoch.
Similarly vibrant but here with a little more width of aroma. Some gas. Extra mineral – more clarity here – a little more open – great structure – bravo – my new favourite! Holding so well, slightly saline too.
2019 Puligny-Montrachet Corvées des Vignes
Similar in width, similarly vibrant it just the mineral, slightly reductive depth is a different style. Easier to assimilate – extra-complex citrus notes, not too intense – but enough. Always mouth-watering – yes with tension. Excellent Puligny – almost chewy in the long-lasting finish…
Just two lieu dits principally, Les Poirons and Les Hâtes, from over 50-year-old vines. Like the whites, elevage without sulfur until the wine is assembled.
That’s a deep nose, dark-fruited – spiced from wc – almost a little textural, cushioning the aromas. Wide, then mouth-filling. Never heavy. Slowly mouth-watering. This is great Santenay, but it’s for keeping 5 years!
2019 Auxey-Duresses 1er Les Bretrins
A little wider – similar in style to the last, faintly perfumed in this case. Fuller – quite open, more tannin here, almost, but not quite, grained. Great finishing flavour – another to wait for and another that’s absolutely worth waiting for!
2019 Santenay 1er Le Beaurepaire
Here the whole-cluster spice is a little more overt but still not smokey or gothic. A little gassy. Dark fruited but such energy here. That’s a super wine again – the finish is more compact but no less long…
14k/hectare pinot fin planting. This plot touches the last but the two pinots are separated by some chardonnay.
There’s good width of aroma here, more important, perhaps, is the weight of fruit that it’s guarding below. Fuller, much more textural wine – the tannin more in evidence but without grain, just a frame of astringence. I think that’s a great wine, but it’s another that you should have patience with – actually that fits for all the reds here.
Old vines of 70 years-old.
There’s depth here, but there’s also a nicely airy top-not to this nose – it’s a fine invitation. Round, tannic again, but here the shape of the tannin is different – a little astringent and almost with a micro-grain. Licorice in the fabulous finishing complexity – that’s great once more.
Ooh – that’s a beautiful nose – taking all the best aspects of the last wines and combining in an ethereal blend. Extra depth and freshness, but extra depth of tannin too for those of you who were thinking of opening one – don’t! I’d guess a 10 years-plus wine here – and it will be absolutely worth it…