Tasted in Volnay with Benoît Landanger, 08 December 2020.
Domaine de la Pousse d’Or
8 Rue de la Chapelle
Tel: +33 3 80 21 24 03
More reports for Domaine de la Pousse d’Or
Benoît on 2019:
“Nothing is bottled at the moment – it’s my second full vintage here and what was marked was that we harvested three different times due to the heterogenic nature of the year – with breaks of a day or two in-between. The quantities were low – about 30% down – but the wine is good. Probably, we may make a slightly earlier bottling than we did for the 2018s but that will anyway be next year.”
My chosen day for tasting wasn’t a great one for the aromatics – of the reds. Great whites. Some great Côte de Beaunes. Excellent Côte de Nuits – and this time around ‘only’ excellent amphora wine.
2019 Santenay 1er Clos Tavannes
A slightly compact nose, pure and red-fruited. Bright, lovely energy, fine red fruit again, with a little frame of tannin around the flavours. Fine width of finishing flavour, quite complex, just a hint of smoke too – long – a very tasty wine.
2019 Volnay 1er Les Caillerets
Also compact but this is more open, and with a darker purity of fruit. More direct, more intense too – really mouth-watering in the middle – structural and with very fine clarity of flavour – finishing with a modest rasp of tannin. Again, that’s very tasty wine – and with a little more class for sure.
2019 Volnay 1er Clos d’Audignac
Named after the owner in the 800s who planted vines here – François d’Audignac
This nose is showing more – more vibrancy of red fruit. Fine attack, there’s a structural impression here and a more melting depth of finishing flavour too – again fine clarity of flavour. That’s very good …
2019 Clos de la Bousse d’Or
Deeper, a subtle reduction here. More mouth-filling, airy and open, larger-scale to these flavours – not more pure but still a very different presentation. Wide and long finishing – not a full-power finish but the length is clear. Lovely wine.
Whilst not fully open, this is the finest nose so far – open and pure – yes! Beautiful in the mouth; wide, layered, purity of delivery – that’s a great wine.
2019 Pommard 1er Les Jarolières
A little extra depth again, also a little reduction. Nice scale, an extra depth to the tannin. Long, clean, quite engrossing. I find this excellent.
2019 Corton Bressandes
A fuller aroma, modest width, but there’s class here and a floral characteristic comes into view with aeration. Nice intense start with a line of fresh flavour, mouth-watering. Mineral, direct, involving, Super.
More width and aromatic, floral, complexity here. Wider in the mouth too – similarly intense but with more purity and finer structure. This is a beauty. Bravo!
These vines harvested about 1 week later than those of the Côte de Beaune:
A more approachable nose, rounder, some complexity – still a little tight. Ooh – now that’s different – wide, concentrated but no fat – a super mouth-watering flavour profile. Love the clarity and shape of this delicious wine. Bravo
2019 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Groseilles
Deeper colour. I have the impression of a texturally fine nose, but the aromas are tight. A wine that’s more structural and powerful – intense finishing. More patience required for this one, fine as it is.
2019 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Charmes
Another very compact nose – a certain airy character notwithstanding – aeration works magic here though – a beautiful floral perfume springs form the glass. Large-scaled but open, beautiful clarity and a finish that shows a little tannin but with no grain. A super finish with a little typical Charmes herb – that’s a really excellent wine – lovely stuff!
2019 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Amoureuses
More depth of aroma – but no associated reduction this time. – becoming more airy with time in the glass. More drive to this wine, a vibrant wine with a herby component in the middle but then it’s gone – mouth-watering in the finish – a super finish.
Like all here – not fully open – but here’s still quite some width to the aroma. Depth of flavour – cherry-stones and minerality. The nose needs to open for great, but the rest of this wine is great – not a brutal BM but a complete one – really excellent.
2019 Clos de la Roche
A serious core of fruit that remains tight, slowly releasing more higher tones above. That is a nice shape – more structural, also more open – fine clarity of darker fruit. Wide in the finish. Lovely wine.
Now for the Amphora wines:
2019 Volnay 1er Caillerets Amphora
A clearer red fruit but still a tight nose. Full, energetic, delicious fruit-forward wine. Much more open than the classic Caillerets, still a tannin that frames the finishing flavours.
2019 Volnay 1er Bousse d’Or Amphora
Depth of aroma but no reduction. A little herb in the complexity of fruit here – growing more and more intense – clean, wide, modestly tannic finishing. Super.
2019 Volnay 1er Les 60 Ouvrées Amphora
Aromatically this is back to the clearer red fruit of the Caillerets. Punchy, concentrated wine – super clarity – fresh and intense. Long finishing. Simply excellent!
And to finish, les blancs:
A fuller nose – a roundness of shape, a ripeness but at the same time freshness of agrume fruit. Ooh – that’s rather good – structured, wide, beautifully proportioned wine. That’s a great finish too. Bravo – a beautiful wine.
Deeper, more mineral style to this nose. Extra freshness, more direct again, perhaps a hint of reduction in the middle today but this has a glorious energy and flavour complexity – and let’s not forget the length – it will also be great. Well done!