Tasted with Guillaume d’Angerville in Volnay, 17 November 2020.
Guillaume on 2020:
“2020 was a particular year; I think the point of inflexion was 2018 where we could really sense the modification of our climate but, in 2020, I also sensed that our vines were somehow adapting to this climate as the wines are shown in a classic way despite the heat and the dryness – they are finding their way. The major difficulty, the thing most delicate, was choosing the date of the harvest because the advance of the maturity today can be brutally fast. I chose to harvest earlier to avoid too high sugars – we planned for a date, already in August but actually, I advanced it another week as the maturities began to grow. A harvest of 14 days the aligoté was the one we had to wait longest for – it blocked a little – like the chardonnays…”
Guillaume on 2019:
“2019 was actually a complicated season. We already started with some hydric stress in 2019 as the winter was not just warm but also quite dry. Then came the period in April and May with some days of frost and certainly much cooler temperature – with it some worries. The flowering occurred over an extended period in, frankly, not the best weather. June started with plenty of rain then came the first heatwave, then there was another heatwave yet our harvest date was relatively classic – 12 September. But it’s a small harvest – between 30 and 50% less than we had in 2018 – though not forgetting that 18 was quite a generous vintage.”
The reds were less ready than in most vintages that I taste here – aromatically still with much to unlock and some reduction here and there too. But the balance and fabulous textures – never the same – shows the quality of the cellar chez d’Angerville in 2019!
2019 Bourgogne Passetoutgrains
This is the only red to have been bottled. ‘These are old domaine vines but my father had put them into a fermage agreement. When the time came, I decided that they should return to the domaine.’
A slightly compact nose. Nice open shape in the mouth with energy and the merest lick of tannin. Juicy finishing. Very tasty and long-finishing wine indeed…
2019 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
That’s a deep nose, aided by a little reduction. Wider, a little more depth to the flavour – certainly becoming rounder in shape. A very modest suggestion of the barrel in the creamy finish. This has much concentration for the label. Give it 2-3 years…
Again, a nose of depth and a faint reduction. Extra silk to the texture – really a beautiful width of flavour here – the last impression is of weight fading into a mouth-watering flavour – a long diminuendo. Simply excellent.
2019 Volnay 1er Cru
Has Mitans and Pitures in the blend – completely different terroirs, high and low but a historic cuvée of the domaine. No young vines included in 2019
Plenty of colour like all these wines. The aroma cushioned and deep with less overt reduction here. Extra width and extra energy, there’s depth to this flavour, a certain accent of the barrel again – but always on a relatively anecdotal level. The best finish so far!
A little extra aromatic freshness though there is a weight of aroma below, too. Ooh – pure, fresh – the first wine that’s fully open, delicate but lacking nothing in concentration. I love the purity of delivery here. Great Pommard – which I’d happily drink today!
2019 Volnay 1er Clos des Angles
More soil here vs Fremiets
Here is a width to the aroma – structurally – but a wine that’s reluctant to open. Like the Pommard a good opening attack but here there’s a little more depth to the texture. Extra finishing complexity too, very faintly accented with some salinity. Give this a little more time than the Pommard
2019 Volnay 1er Fremiets
Aromatically more in common with the first wines with a touch of reduction. Seamless, beautifully textured wine – supple but with no fat – there’s depth to this fine flavour. Very long finishing, the flavour still majoring on the bass-notes today. Beautiful.
More open and wide, faintly floral in this width of aroma. Architecturally this is more my style of wine – a framework and beautifully delicate flavour of complexity melting all around. Staying open in a fine if not powerful finish – a wine of exceptional elegance today.
2019 Volnay 1er Champans
‘I never know which of these three is higher in the hierarchy – it depends on the vintage – that’s why I price them the same!’ – Guillaume d’Angerville
Quite open, a little less demonstrative than the Caillerets but a fine invitation nonetheless. A little more impact to the structure here, but nothing harsh or hard. A modest extra depth to the texture from the concentration too. A finish that you can almost chew – and contemplate. Super!
A lot has been replanted.
Higher toned, but a nose that I feel to be less ready than the others. In the mouth, there’s no question-mark; gorgeous texture, flavour that’s mouth-wateringly delicious – almost juicy. A little tannin in the finishing flavour. Serious but approachable – this will benefit from whatever cellar-time you can give it, but with the potential to be great wine!
Probably the most open nose of all these – slightly cushioned, with fine depth too. A totally different quality/form – open, there’s clearly structure but it’s not any overtly structural wine. Melting with flavour. The finish showing the most persistence and the most volume here. Always special to see the difference between these wines each year! Great wine for sure in 2019
Bottled in July.
A forward and super-inviting nose of freshness and golden citrus. Volume in the mouth and a rare aligoté with a sense of minerality without any rigour. Just delicious and already very drinkable – lip-smackingly delicious in the finish – bravo!
2019 Bourgogne Chardonnay
Here the nose a little more compact – just a suggestion of agrume. Faint gas but a clean width of flavour too. A touch of mineral but like the aligoté with no harshness. Small waves of bright finishing flavour make this a delicious glass.
2019 Meursault 1er Santenots
Much more depth of aroma, yes very faintly reductive but still with a toasty, faintly spiced personality. Mouth-filling but elegantly-so – nothing heavy. Supple, great texture again with the 2019 tannic anecdote in the middle and finish. Wide and super-finishing – proper Meursault of fine distinction – oh, and delicious!